Hi Luke,
do you have a link to the E-stop switch you are using?
The inexpensive ones I have, use 2 separate circuits. One is NC and the other is NO when the switch is not pushed in.
When the switch is pushed in and locks, the NC side becomes open-circuit and the NO side becomes connected.
Also, can you tell us how the E-stop signal is handled by the controller?
i.e. "The controller requires a X Volt signal to be present/not present, on a particular pin, in order for an E-stop condition to be recognized."
As Frozenguy has hinted at, the "12V" LED that you already have will be able to work at 24V, but only reliably with an additional current-limiting resistor.
EDIT:
Cross-posted with ronsimpson - can you confirm whether ron's take on your set-up is correct, because the details from your posts so far are unclear.