Repairing an air fryer

Status
Not open for further replies.
A

amateur_24

Member
Hi
I am trying to fix an air fryer that doesn't turn on.
I have discovered there isn't any ac power coming into the main board but there is ac power on the mains flex connection.

I traced backwards from where the ac is connected to the board. I found the board to be wired in series with a device shown in the picture. There are two one in series

What is this device called and how do I test it?
I suspect it's failed because that the only point of failure I can find.
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20230609_120556422.jpg
    2.2 MB · Views: 701
Sort by date Sort by votes
Does anyone have any idea why this air fryer has had both it's internal mains rated 3.15a and the thermal fuse blown.

I get the feeling something is very wrong with it.

I have already tested the heating element. The resistance reading is 31ohms. There is no short to earth.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
3.15A is too small to power an air fryer, and really too large to power just the electronics in an air fryer - so exactly where is it connected?, and has someone fitted the 3.15A fuse and it's not the correct value?.

As has already been said, the thermal fuse has probably blown due to over heating, has the fryer been keep clean and well ventilated?.

Heat fuses are a common failure where they are fitted, and sometimes fail for no reason.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
The air fryer hasn't been worked on before me since we bought it new.

The thermal fuse was completely clean because the heating element has a metal shroud around it. The thermal fuse was mounted on the other side away from the heating element.

I don't have the original fuse any more. It doesn't look like the fuse is protecting the heating element.

Does anyone have any thoughts?
 

Attachments

  • PXL_20230609_155418996.jpg
    2.5 MB · Views: 389
  • PXL_20230609_154428404.jpg
    1.8 MB · Views: 402
Last edited:
Upvote 0 Downvote
The fuse could well be in the LV circuit that controls the element etc.
The board shows a couple of relays etc.
Remember, it does not necessarily open due to current, but (ambient) temperature.
They generally come with a generic rating of 15a, overall.
Obtain a couple of spares and see if the new one hangs-in!
 
Upvote 0 Downvote

Fuses don't protect elements - fuses are there to protect external 'things', such as preventing the house burning down - it's not too much of a concern in the UK, as all plugs are fused anyway, and an air fryer will have a 13A fuse in the plug.

There seems no sign of any transformer?, so it's probably a crude (everything is live to mains) transformerless power supply, which 'could' be why it's got a 3.15A fuse in (it needs to be large because of the switch-on surge, yet will blow if the dropper capacitor goes S/C).

First off - get a suitable 3.15A fuse and replace it - then TEMPORARILY!!! short out the thermal fuse and see if all works OK. If everything is good, then you can buy a thermal fuse and replace it.

If you're wary about trying it with the thermal fuse shorted out?, then get a thermal fuse and replace that before testing as well - shorting the old one out first is just to save you killing a thermal fuse you've just spent money on.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Yeah there's no transformer.

I tried shorting the thermal fuses and it switches on now. The fan appears to be working. I disconnected the heating element because there's no thermal protection.

Is it a good idea to have a thermal fuse on both line and neutral? I thought it was frowned upon.

I have ordered some thermal fuses off eBay. I do hope the heating element is ok. If it all works, what caused it to blow both thermal fuses and the 3.15a mains fuse?
 
Last edited:
Upvote 0 Downvote
Why did you try it with the element disconnected? - the whole point was to see if it worked, and you didn't do that.

You only need thermal protection if you're actually using it, not just for testing it - and such thermal protection will take a considerable time to operate anyway.

As for thermal protection in both live and neutral, I don't see as it makes any difference? - and could just be a simple way of monitoring the temperature at two different points.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Don't solder in the new thermal fuse as the heat from soldering will open the new fuse.best to crimp it.
You can solder it if there is something on the thermo lead to reduce the heat as in needle nose pliers
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Doug said:
Don't solder in the new thermal fuse as the heat from soldering will open the new fuse.best to crimp it.
You can solder it if there is something on the thermo lead to reduce the heat as in needle nose pliers
Click to expand...
If you're blowing a thermal fuse by soldering it, then you need more practice at soldering properly (the end of the wire is a very long way from the actual fuse).

However, it's best to crimp them if you can.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Where can I get suitable crimps? All I can find on eBay is crimps they use in the electrical field.

I have soldered the connection for the heating element back in. I ran it for 10mins and it seems to be ok.

Thanks to everyone for your help.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Upvote 0 Downvote
Is that the thermal fuse?
That is what I was referring to, they are rated in temperature, not amperage, except the max rating.
Usually either 10a or 15a for kitchen appliance type.
 
Upvote 0 Downvote
Status
Not open for further replies.

Similar threads

  • Question
Repairing 1950s dime store 110v electric bells
Replies
5
Views
866
hotrodjohn71
F
  • Question
Repairing thermocouples by spot welding
Replies
4
Views
3K
danadak
F
Repairing a Heathkit GC-1197 digital clock
Replies
14
Views
5K
Fitpaul
F
D
  • Question
Repairing the 7-segment LED of a Sony 5.1 sound system
Replies
5
Views
2K
Nigel Goodwin
  • Question
An R-SPS3010
Replies
5
Views
1K
Vizier87
Menu
Log in
Register
Cookies are required to use this site. You must accept them to continue using the site. Learn more…