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Security With LCD

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AtomSoft

Well-Known Member
Im working on a security system with like 1-2 zones using a lcd and so far so good. Im about to add a motion sensor (PIR i think) and some other sources. Feel free to comment and tell me if anything can be better. Code is attached and picture also video in like 10 min.

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Well, you need a keypad so you can enter your security code, but it looks good so far.
 
hi atom,
Under carpet pressure mats are simple to interface and cheap.

Battery back up in the final unit is a good idea.

Make it a dual purpose system, 'low level' and 'high level' alarm modes.

Low level, turns on the hallway lights during the night, when the alarms is triggered and sounds a 'silent' alarm.
[for your ears only]
High level, lights on, 'sound bomb' activated.!!!

Dont forget to include exit and entry delays to the alarms, so you can leave the house before the system becomes active , likewise the entry delay, give you time to disable the system.

Remember the idea is to frighten away any intended intruder before he enters the house.
Deterrent not confrontation is best, let the bas**ds hear the alarm from outside, not when they are inside your house...:rolleyes:
 
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kchriste i just realized that i will make one today.

Eric thanks a bunch i used to be a security guard and know more or less about it being a Deterrent. Maybe also i can make it play a sound like a prerecorded thing like the script would be...

"The police are on the way i suggest you leave." (play 1 time only)
while the alarm is on.

I have no problems in my home lol but im tryinng to make this for someone who might plan to give me funds for a providing a sample and ask me to make a better one.

So its like a prototype to a grant type thing.

P.S. I might move over to the 18F448 i have on hand.
 
hi atom,
You can/could get key tops for that type of pcb push button, so that you label the buttons function.

Just in case you dont know, the push buttons can be bought with different lengths of the plastic rod push.
The push rods can protrude thru a metal/plastic front panel.
 
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Finished wiring Keypad and glad to say works 100% (tested with multimeter) all seems well. Here are some pics of the final pad.

**broken link removed**

**broken link removed**

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It's a far cry from the stuff I used to install, Acron PAS1, Moose mpi23, and the old Ademco
that only had a relay in the can. That was in the late 70's early 80's. The Ademco's would
6 volt lantern batteries for backup, and they usually rotted out the bottom of the can when they failed.
 
I used to install ADEMCO also with honeywell (not sure if its a typo). I used to do fire/alarm systems.
Have to change code to check all button values now lol but here is another image:

**broken link removed**
 
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i need buttons for various reasons i made that keypad because it only uses 1 pin on my uC so i save pins. Also if i order one i would have to wait :D
 
i just had a thought on how i can make it still 1 wire with those keypads but for now i still needed 1 for testing at least at this moment in time.
 
Got to get you a micro with more I/O
A 18F4620 is quite a beast.

I've noticed a plethora of users here doing some really great projects in the past few days. Nice keep it up.
 
Plethora = a sufficiently large number

Had to look it up lol Thanks I actually have a 40 pin ( i think ) the PIC18F448 i will be using that. Just have to move the stuff around a bit like the wiring so i can fit it lol :D
 
Need Some help porting my code. I dont see the issue with it tho. No errors and no halting just doesnt show anything. The lcd works because i tried it back on the 18F1320 breadboard and even tried another lcd just in case.

Also i changed the delays for 20Mhz. I also changed the A/D stuff. If anyone can lend a hand plz...

The issue is i cant see anything on the LCD not even white bars. Here is my code. (for the PIC18F448)
 

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