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Small Usefull PCBs

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AtomSoft

Well-Known Member
Hey all i though i would share something today. I made these 2 small simplest PCBs that are quite useful on a breadboard for saving space and mess.

**broken link removed**

IR Schem:
**broken link removed**

Reset Schem:
**broken link removed**

Hope these are helpful to lazy (also clean) folks like me. These allow you to i guess save time on the testing/dev portion of a project.
 
hi atom,
Nice little boards, I use a similar method.

Other useful miniboards, are the MAX232 with its caps, a 16pin IDC with a 10K pot, used for LCD's.
The IDC enables the use of 16Way ribbon cable from the LCD.

You can get those pins that protrude thru the top of the pcb as well as the bottom, this enables you to make an 'off' board connection, while the board is plugged in.
 
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Thanks... Sounds cool... A max232 board is next on my list.. well i have 1 but i will make for breadboard ease of use.

Going to make a few others also just because they are so handy...
 
Thanks... Sounds cool... A max232 board is next on my list.. well i have 1 but i will make for breadboard ease of use.

Going to make a few others also just because they are so handy...


hi,
Are going to post your pcb layouts.?

This sounds like a good topic for the next issue of the JBUG newsletter, I'm sure Bill would like some input.:)
 
Yeah ill post them now. Also i was in Issue #2 the "Keypad using 1 A/D Input"

1 sec while i post PCB Layouts.

Reset PCB
**broken link removed**

IR PCB
**broken link removed**
 
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Here they are i have included a lbr file for eagle it has the part you need for the IR board. (since i used radio shack part) I had to make my own part for 100% correct layout.
 

Attachments

  • Reset_Mini.zip
    12.8 KB · Views: 129
  • RadioShack.zip
    1.6 KB · Views: 110
  • Ir_Mini.zip
    36 KB · Views: 135
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I will actually make it with a Max233 since no caps are needed. (I think :confused: )
Even tho the DIP package is big but it would be all you need and the DB9 Con. but would be ultra simple if you think about it. Less parts smaller board (unless SMD)
QUOTE FROM DATASHEET:

"The MAX225, MAX233, MAX235, and MAX245/MAX246/MAX247 use
no external components and are recommended for applications
where printed circuit board space is critical."
 
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I decided to make the DB9 wired so it wont weigh down the board.
Here it is Images and Eagle Files: (MAX233 MiniBoard)

Schematic:
**broken link removed**

Board:
**broken link removed**

Files Attached below
 

Attachments

  • Max233.zip
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not sure what you mean but i see them lol Try a refresh
Did that. Then I shut off the browser and restarted it. Still no images.

Here's what it looks like. The zip file is there:

I decided to make the DB9 wired so it wont weigh down the board.
Here it is Images and Eagle Files: (MAX233 MiniBoard)

Schematic:


Board:


Files Attached below

EDIT: Tried it in IE. Here's what I see:
bleh.jpg
 
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I just bought a DB9F with MAX232 from Technological Arts here in Toronto.
I couldn't find it on their site but it's similar to this device.
You mean one of these? I have one. I also have a couple of **broken link removed** from HVWTech. Pretty much every company has one. Sparkfun has their own as well. They're a good time saver. :)
 
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Thanks blueroom, you may have posted that site before but I've linked to it before! The headers alone will likley cause them to get an order from me.
 
looks pretty cool the only issue i dont like is that the cable always so heavy it moves the board. so i might make it like have a ribbon cable to another part like:

Like this:
Technological Arts

hi atom,
I always fix my project boards to either double or single sided copper pcb.
Old off cuts of copper plated pcb are OK. [plain or tinned]

Cut the copper pcb bigger than the project board by about an inch or so, either end.
Fix the project board in the centre of the copper pcb, most project boards have a peel off sticky back cover.

When the project board is affixed to the pcb, use short lengths of 'green' wire between the 0V rails of the project board and the copper backing pcb, solder the end that connects to the copper face.
Do this at both ends of the project ground rails. This gives the project board an excellent 'ground plane'.

I also fit upright tag strips to the free space on the copper face, the tags provide a 0V conenction
for the scope and meter leads.

On the other end of the project board I also mount tag strips and use them to bring
in my 'dc' power leads to the project board.
Add the large decoupling to the tags.

Add 6 sticky plastic feet to the underside of the copper board, this gives it better adhesion to your work bench
so it dosn't slide around.

Doing it this way makes the whole construction more secure.:)
 
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