Solder -again

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pewtu

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Sorry to bring this up as I know it has been discussed but I'm still struggling. I see people have wanted a suitable replacement for the 60/40. However I have tried 3 different sorts and all are no where near as good. I want about a 0.6mm wire of the good old stuff. It just works for me when soldering smd devices. Does anyone sell it and if so who.
At last my 500gm of 24 swg 60/40 multicore is no more.
 
As an interesting point. I worked for a broadcast TV company as an electronics engineer for 27 years, designing and building the bespoke electronic equipment. Now retired, as a private person I am not allowed to purchase lead solder as I do not have an account with one supplier and hence not a 'professional'.
I, as a private individual, designed a PCB. Had it made and it has lead solder finish but I am supposed to use useless 'kind to the environment' solder.
 
I use 63/37 tin/lead rosin core solder that hardens suddenly as it cools. 60/40 causes a bad solder joint if the wires are moved as it cools.
 
Funny.. No one has ever asked.... I just order and it comes....
 
Old 60/40 solder was used with vacuum tubes many years ago. 63/37 solder is new and is much better.
 
Rapid Electronics, when I try and order some 60/40 there is a warning that you have to be over 18 to purchase it plus if you do not have a credit account it will be removed from the basket due to regulations. They will only sell to 'professionals' . It seems as if a professional is someone who is over 18 and have a credit account with Rapid.
 
Just wonder audioguru why you say that 63/37 is better. Surely not because 60/40 is an old product? The comment that 60/40 can cause a dry joint if the wire is moved while cooling I would say also holds for 63/37 however I would concede that because the melting point and solidification point of 63/37 is closer than 60/40 there is less chance of it happening. However, I have also found that the appearance of 63/37 is granular whereas 60/40 shiny. If 60/40 shows granularity it's a sign of a dry joint. In no way do I find 63/37 flows well, probably due to the closeness of the melting-solidification point. As soon as it flows from the iron it freezes.
 
I do not carry around solder on the tip of my soldering iron then drip it on the wires like the kids "over there" on You Tube videos do.
Also, I have never bought cheap no-name-brand solder made from used tin cans from "over there".
All my 63/37 solder joints are perfect and shiny.
 
I have not, and would not, question your ability to make perfect joints with 63/37 solder. Nor have I questioned your source of supply. I was puzzled about a comment that suggested that because 6040 solder was used to solder valve bases it was an inferior product.
Because I had a good supply of 60/40 solder, now exhausted, as a now 'non professional' as I have retired from 27 years as electronics project engineer at a local broadcast TV company in Norfolk, I have now met 63/37 solder. As far as I am concerned, it is an inferior product. Interesting however that, according to one reputable supplier, professionals can have it but amateurs not.
 
Ive had some 60/40 from Rapid , and ESR ( as my link ) both perform well. and much better since i got a Antex606A iron.Perhaps pewtu your iron / tip is not up to the job ?
 
I have a temperature controlled iron with various tips to cope with soldering smd standard through hole and those larger jobs such as switches etc. Have been very happy with it. Thanks to all for the constructive suggestions, however I have started another thread which sheds another light.
 
pewtu said:
They will only sell to 'professionals'
Click to expand...
Yet lead solder is banned from consumer products - not DIY or prototype (or industrial) equipment!
Smells like political correctness over common sense.

ps. We mostly use Multicore (now branded Loctite) 60/40 or "savbit", though I have recently ordered some 63/37 to try.
 
Yet Rapid will only sell to professionals. You would think they would only sell to amateurs.
 
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