Sony KDL-40U2000 LCD TV - 4 blinks of death .....

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I seem to have the same problem on this same TV. Is your TV still working fine?

Could you please tell me what exact type of fuse you used? Also, do I just remove the old fuse and solder on the new one?

I have no experience doing this, so I can use any info/tips you could give me.

Thank you.
 
Tv is still working fine - watching it as we speak.

I just piggybacked a 500ma 63v slow blow (time delay) fuse on top of the blown one as the old one was a little reluctant to desolder.

This is the one I bought from RS :

Code: 
764-9365 10 £0.308 £3.08 Slow Blow 1206 SMD Fuse 63V 0.5A
 
Alright, I'm going to try to find one of those.

RS doesn't let me order cause I'm not a business customer and these fuses seem impossible to find anywhere else here in the Netherlands.
 
I'd have to order from Farnell Netherlands and they don't sell to non business users.

I'm looking at an Ebay listing which has the following description:

FUSE, SMD, 1206, 0.5A
Voltage Rating V DC:63V
Fuse Current:500mA
Breaking Capacity:50A @ 63V DC
Blow Characteristic:Slow Blow
Series:SinglFuse
Fuse Case Style:1206
SVHC:No SVHC (18-Jun-2012)
Approval Category:UL Recognised
External Depth:1.55mm
External Width:3.1mm
Fuse Type Blowing Characteristic:Slow Blow
Internal Resistance:385ohm

These should be fine right?
 
Not too sure about the internal resistance but (it seems very very high) but if you're looking at that auction which costs £8.99 for the pack of 10 then I've spotted this seller before - he just buys from Farnell, doubles the price then gets them to send it (which they don't always do !)

Have you measured the fuse to see if it is open circuit yet ? You'll get some duff readings as there are some large capacitors connected to it but you should have <1 ohms resistance if it is ok or you can see the resistance reading going up slowly if it is duff.

If you need me to send a couple of fuses over to you, I'm quite happy to do so at cost - should be around £2 for two fuses, an envelope and airmail if that helps ?
 
Thanks for the warning.

I have not measured the fuse actually cause I don't have the right tools. (I'm not a pro or a hobbyist.)

It would be great if you could send me a couple. I will PM you.
 
I received the fuses today, and because I'm impatient I decided to just try to fix the TV.

I managed to remove the old fuse, soldered on a new one, and hoped for the best.

The TV has been working fine for the last few hours!

I'm really happy so thank you very much picbits. I really appreciate you helping me fix the TV.
 
Glad it turned up and everything is working We've now got a nice big 3d Plasma to replace the Sony but it will be going to my parents who currently have a 20" CRT television so about time they "upgraded".

Fingers crossed it gives you a few more years of use
 
A few years on and my parents have now been using the television every day and it is still going strong as is my plasma (after two new panels under warranty ....)
 
Hello, I am working with the same issue on a Sony KDL-40V2500. F003 fuse is bad and I have found no continuity at R006 or R007

What are your thoughts?

thank you

I'm not sure about what is going on at R006 and R007 but I replaced the fuse and now it works.
 
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What have R006 and R007 got to do with anything?.

The fuse fails for no reason, simply replace it and the jobs done.
 
When I first worked on the TV, I had used a jumper across the F003 fuse and the TV worked fine.
As per the original poster, I ordered some 500ma 63v slow blow (time delay) fuses.

However, after installed...the fuse blows immediately when the TV is powered on.

I would appreciate any ideas.

Thanks
 
Have you checked your capacitors in the power supply for leakage / high esr etc ? It could be causing high ripple on the rails. To be fair, the price of LCD / LED televisions now has made it not really worth repairing the older sets these days.
 
It's never been a problem on Sony sets, as they fit higher quality components, and the electrolytics NEVER fail.

As for the fuse failing again, I would suggested connecting an ammeter in its place to measure what it's actually taking, and also check very carefully that there wasn't an inadvertent short which blew the new fuse.
 
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