iamsuperbleeder
New Member
Working on a little project, and I know how I WANT things to work in the end, but I'm sort of stumped at the moment trying to figure out how to get everything to work correctly...
Here's my goal. I'm installing blue LED's throughout the interior of my vehicle, and I want them to function in a few different ways, all selectable with a single 3 position switch and a single potentiometer. I want them to be able to:
A) function as regular interior lights with the switch in one position; they will come on at full brightness with the dome light when say a door is opened.
B) override them with another switch position and have them on whenever and have their brightness be adjustable via the potentiometer.
C) with the last switch position have them sync to and flash with music with an adjustable sensitivity using the same POT, but also running through a low pass filter (that way they'll more or less seem to "beat" with the music instead of just being on whenever it's just loud).
A is easy, no real questions there
B is fairly easy as well until you factor in that I want them to be adjustable with the single POT that C is going to use for its sensitivity adjustment
C is what's throwing me off... I've messed around on the breadboard with a PNP transistor circuit trying various ways with caps and resistors and pots to make it work, but am getting no where... I mean as far as the circuit goes to get the output to pulse to audio input, I've got that, but it's the low pass filter and the adjustable sensitivity that's got me stumped...
It would also be neat (not a must, but might be helpful) if somehow the low pass filter were adjustable, maybe not with a knob on the dash, but just a small pot on the board in the end.
So looking at 12-14v in, and the output has to be the same as well because all the LED's I'm using already have resistors in line to work at that voltage. The audio input can come from either a high source like a direct speaker output or a low source like an RCA output from the stereo; either is easily accessible. Then of course the circuit will need a dome light input and an ignition input for the override on (don't want to be able to accidentally leave them on). Looking at an amp draw of MAYBE 7-8 amps at most, but probably no where near that.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated! Thanks!
Here's my goal. I'm installing blue LED's throughout the interior of my vehicle, and I want them to function in a few different ways, all selectable with a single 3 position switch and a single potentiometer. I want them to be able to:
A) function as regular interior lights with the switch in one position; they will come on at full brightness with the dome light when say a door is opened.
B) override them with another switch position and have them on whenever and have their brightness be adjustable via the potentiometer.
C) with the last switch position have them sync to and flash with music with an adjustable sensitivity using the same POT, but also running through a low pass filter (that way they'll more or less seem to "beat" with the music instead of just being on whenever it's just loud).
A is easy, no real questions there
B is fairly easy as well until you factor in that I want them to be adjustable with the single POT that C is going to use for its sensitivity adjustment
C is what's throwing me off... I've messed around on the breadboard with a PNP transistor circuit trying various ways with caps and resistors and pots to make it work, but am getting no where... I mean as far as the circuit goes to get the output to pulse to audio input, I've got that, but it's the low pass filter and the adjustable sensitivity that's got me stumped...
It would also be neat (not a must, but might be helpful) if somehow the low pass filter were adjustable, maybe not with a knob on the dash, but just a small pot on the board in the end.
So looking at 12-14v in, and the output has to be the same as well because all the LED's I'm using already have resistors in line to work at that voltage. The audio input can come from either a high source like a direct speaker output or a low source like an RCA output from the stereo; either is easily accessible. Then of course the circuit will need a dome light input and an ignition input for the override on (don't want to be able to accidentally leave them on). Looking at an amp draw of MAYBE 7-8 amps at most, but probably no where near that.
Any help or ideas would be appreciated! Thanks!
