there are RF remote dimmers for led for less then $5 and they work I know I have them all over the house. And they are programmable to 25% 50% or 100% and can flah bounce glitter all kinds of way for $5 and are 2' by .5" why the super cost for something that simple as a dimmer? 2 WIRE IN 2 WIRE OUt GET WITH THE PROGRAM
I get what you are saying, but unfortunately that kind of setup would defeat the system here. A portion of the lighting here is on an Adorne wireless system that has a wireless central control box that can be operated over the internet. I have done exactly what you are talking about on some lights, but some lights really need to stay on the automated system... when you have 5 or 10 remote controls to operate every night... well I think you can see the problem. Also, I'd rather not have to chuck several expensive drivers to go to another transformer that is more compatible, even if it is cheaper.
Anyway, I did try a RF wireless dimmer here and the driver and the dimmer unit did not get along very well. Lots of random blinking out. A non-dimmable transformer would probably would better if I went this way.
I also tried a halogen bulb to see if that would even out the load. 20 watts did not improve the strobing much, but then I bumped it to a 50w bulb which did show considerate improvement even if not perfect. Only problem now, is that if I keep that setup, now I have to hide a 50 watt heat source under the cabinet in an enclosed space. There will be a trap door to get to it, but still not very easily or quickly. It's probably 4 or 5 cubic feet of space, so not worried about fire levels of heat, but still don't like that situation for heat and power waste reasons. I also just tried a large resistor of 20 ohms which resulted in about the same improvement. The drawback there of course being I won't have the higher brightness level available, but it's rarely needed. The lights spend 99.9% of their time at 25%.
Is there a way to make the original idea of using a capacitor to smooth out voltage drops ... i.e. another rectifier bridge to isolate the capacitors from the driver or something.
Thanks again for the advice.