On further thought of what you are doing or trying to do i am a little confused about the motor operation
Now what turns the knob on in the first place?
Is the motor turning the knob on and off?
If so, then there is a need to forward and reverse drive the motor, which will need a relay or H bridge of some description to reverse the polarity to the motor.
If all the circuit is to do, is turn the Knob off in the absent of a flame, then the circuit will work as designed, but how do you turn the Knob on with a motor attached to it.
It would be much easier to use a solenoid to switch the gas flow on/off prior to the knob.
Although a solenoid would not be good to run from batteries.
Pete.
Something SABorne mentioned that would be a very good idea is to use the solenoid as a gas valve. I wasn't sure what the motor deal was about. I realize you are just messing around with this, and it makes for a great topic, but remember if any of this becomes real be careful working with gas as in real life there are considerations. Mean time, have at it.
Ron
I like to keep things simple by using stuff I am familiar with and then moving on, instead of changing stuff half-way through (or do you think that's a bad approach?)
Also I hope my code wasn't confusing was it?
Its your circuit and you are free to build it as you see fit, i find doing things in software much more flexable and a reduced component count makes producing a PCB much easier.
As for your code.......Hmm to be polite...its a mess.
The up side was at least you had a go and are learning, so i can only expect it to get better.
I spend a reasonable amount of time on the Picaxe forum too, and dont know of anyone else who writes code like you do all strung togther.
Some of my projects have over 1000 lines of code and if i wrote it like you do, i would never have a clue of what the heck it was doing.
I have never used Proteus so i am unable to help there.
I use ExpressPCB as it is dead simple to use, and i can draw a small layout manually rather quick.
Pete.
I often dont use a pic from the library and just draw a rectangle using the square tool to the left hand side, than add the legs as needed, as i did for the earlier schematic i done for you.
You could use the Microchip pic 12F675 footprint, for the 08m.
You dont need to do a schematic to produce the PCB design and can just draw the pcb as needed.
If you have a go at the pcb and post the artwork file i will have a look and tidy it up for you if it is needed.
Try to keep your tracks and pads as large as practial, as this helps when you start out to make boards, and you dont get as many errors with etching etc.
I have a view of, why remove the copper if you dont need to.
We are all here to help and share advice, to those who are prepared to listen and learn.
A year or two ago i put together this article about making PCB's you might like a look at.
https://www.thebackshed.com/windmill/articles/MakingPrintedCircuitBoards.asp
Pete.
The connectors i think you have used are 2.54mm pitch header connectors, i use them a lot and the pin spacings are the same as a IC is 2.54mm apart.
Look here.
**broken link removed**.
I often use the 3 pin ones as a programming socket for the picaxe and have an adapter lead made up to go from the serial D9 socket to the header plug.
With the holes a small hole in the copper pad from etching makes it easier to drill, as the drill bit will locate centre of the pad, where a big hole in the copper allows the bit to walk around in the copper hole and often drills off centre or breaks the bits.
Big pads and small holes are the way to go.
Big holes drilled in the board makes soldering much harder as the solder needs to bridge the gap from copper to component leg.
The diode you choose is a bit light for the job i would think and be better to use a power diode like a 1n4001 or 1n4007.
Pete.
I can't seem to edit the pads in the existing components either...
You can edit them, what you need to do is place the component on the screen then click on the component to highlight it, then go to "EDIT" in the top tool bar and click "UNGROUP" now you can draw a rectangle around the pads and double click on a pad it will allow you to change the pads, once changed, draw a rectangle around the whole component and go to EDIT again and click "GROUP" now the footprint will be locked back together again.
If i need the footprint again i just copy paste it as many times as i need.
The Group and UNGROUP also works in the schematic program should you need to change a component in there too.
The free version of express wont let you save custom components to the file, so what i do is create them and leave them off to one side of my circuit, and copy paste them into the circuit, this way you have your own common used footprints and when i go to a new circuit design i just copy the lot of the home made footprints from the previous circuit and paste them on the page of the new circuit, then work from there, i also find this much quicker than looking for a component in a long list of stuff i dont want.
Lets face it what do you often need, resistors, diodes, 8,14,16,18,20 pin IC, a few capacitors, is the bulk of what you use frequently, the rest i just make as needed, or use plain pads.
The more you do the quicker it gets.
Pete.
Anything else I should worry about before trying to make it?
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