While I'm a big supporter (in my heart at least) of privacy of an individual as a right, I also believe an innocent person has nothing to hide, so I wouldn't mind that kind of personal inspection, if it were required for clearance for a job or what not. Personal curiosity wishes I knew why you had the clearance though =)
Al,
I want to maintian the temperature as close to -3 C as possible. I have figured out the voltages at -5 C and -1 C. They are 2.37 V and 2.65 V respectively. I sized the feedback resistor so that the hysteresis band (if that's even the right term) would be from 2.37 to 2.63 volts. So, if I'm right the heater should turn on just below -5 and turn off just above -1.
I understand what you're saying about the voltages being ratiometric. That makes sense.
The output of the comparator will be input into a NOR gate who's output will in turn drive an opto-coupler and triac arranegement. Do I still require pull up resistors?
Thanks.
R17=-(sqrt((-4*Vs*R18*R20*VHH+Vs^2*R20^2+2*Vs^2*R18*R20+Vs^2*R18^2)*VLL^2+(4*Vs*R18*R20*VHH^2+(-2*Vs^2*R20^2+(2*Vs*Vsat-2*Vs^2)*R18*R20-2*Vs*Vsat*R18^2)*VHH)*VLL+(Vs^2*R20^2-2*Vs*Vsat*R18*R20+Vsat^2*R18^2)*VHH^2)+(Vs*R20+Vs*R18)*VLL+(-Vs*R20-Vsat*R18)*VHH)/(2*Vs*VLL-2*Vs*VHH)
R16=-(R17*R18*VLL)/((R18+R17)*VLL-Vsat*R18-Vs*R17)
Your pullup may be a bit on the low side, I would go with more like a 4.7k. The reason the pull up is needed can be read here. Open collector - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
Didn't know that. All my clearances have come thorugh the military and now my current employer. Luckily I haven't had to shell out a dime for it. Just spend hours on tedious paperwork. It is kind of amusing though when you get a phone call from an old friend that you haven't spoken to in 10 years and they tell you someone called them asking about you.
Let me ask you this. If you have a circuit like below.
Gnd<-------[switch]----[A]------[4.7k res]-------->+5v
Looking at the crude drawing above the switch being simple single pole open/close switch.
What will the voltage at point A be if the switch is open?
What will the voltage at point A be if the switch is closed?
Mike,
What will the voltage at point A be if the switch is open? 5V
What will the voltage at point A be if the switch is closed? 0V
I understand your drawing but perhaps I need to brush up on transistor basics. I was under the impression that even when a transistor is on (i.e. closed in your analogy), that there was still a voltage drop between the collector and the emitter. That's what I meant by Vce. Let me ask this, does the saturation voltage of .25V correspond to the high or low output state? Sorry if I'm not being clear, I just want to make sure I'm grasping this.
In answer to your other question, I was Army enlisted. I had 2 MOSs. 91B = Combat Medic and 13F = Fire Support Specialist (i.e. field artillery forward observer). I think they have changed the MOS codes since I was in though because I was talking to a current soldier a few months ago and he had a different idea of what a 91B and 13F were.
hi vne,
Look at this plot of a 2N2222 transistor.
Vce sat is when the transistor is conducting hard and almost all the supply voltage is across the transistor load resistor.
Note the power dissipation peaking in the linear region of the transistor.
View attachment 37912
Hi Eric,
Thanks for the explanation. I think I understand now. If I read it correctly, it looks like from the plot that Vce sat is about .2V for the 2N2222. So with respect to the LM293 comparator, if it has a Vsat of .25V then output will never drop below that. Correct? I understand that's low enough for a logical low so in essence it's 0V but I just wanted to make sure I was understanding.
I hope it should allow me to calibrate the set point and hysteresis band or at least make it equally inaccurate as my multimeter.
Thanks again everyone for the help and explanations. They are really helpful.
Edit: I forgot to mention a somewhat minor but extremly important detail about the testing. I'm going to stick the Tupperware container with everything inside into my freezer.
hi,
The Vsat of the LM293 is about 250mV at about 4mA sink current, so choose your LM293 output resistor value to give this as a maximum current when the LM293 output is low.
If you have an old biscuit tin you can place your project in the tin and then heat it externally with a desk lamp.
BTW: if you put you projects in a freezer, when you take them out frozen, any humidity in the air will cause heavy condensation on the components.
I put the sensitive components in a sealed clear plastic bag until they get back upto room tempr.
hi,
For ref only, a simple LTspice of the last circuit you posted.
I would suggest you make R2 and R6 a combination of fixed and a variable resistor, this will give you some degree of control of the Vref and hysteresis.
View attachment 37915
Hi again,
Yes, the Vce is the saturation voltage of the output transistor used in the comparator and yes it is spec'd as 0.25v at 4ma. With 1k pullup
and 5v supply that's 5ma but the exact value of the pullup depends on what you are trying to drive (NOR gate). If the nor gate doesnt
take much current (CMOS) then a larger value resistor is ok too, but remember you need to go through the calculations for R16 and R17
again if you change any resistor. Also, it may help to measure the Vce sat voltage and enter that into the calculation too.
Using a CMOS gate might be a good idea as it will not load the pullup much.
That's great that you intend to put the entire circuit into the environment to be monitored, because that means the whole circuit will
track the temperature and that takes many of the unknowns out of the picture. That's the best way to do it as you can not always
depend on the ambient outside of the freezer to be stable. You do have to use parts that can work at those temperatures however.
I think we covered everything now, but one thing to note is that the calculation for R17 came out close to 81k, not 811k which you have
drawn in your new schematic. Double check that in case it was not simply a typo.
Lastly, even though we have calculated this circuit out completely you may require calibration anyway since you want to work with
such a tight temperature range. Also since you want such a range as that you may wish to take a look at your dv/dT for the thermistor
with various upper resistors (your 415k resistor) and see that you are getting the maximum voltage variation possible for the
chosen range (in case you havent done that already). That will increase the resolution of the measurements to the best possible or
at least to pretty good. You dont need super great linearity here but you do want good resolution.
Ok one more quick tip (chuckle)...
In temperature applications like this it is usually a good idea to have a back up plan in case the primary system goes down.
These electronic components are usually pretty good but can change over time. A simple method would be to build up a duplicate
of the system you are currently building and set the range just outside of the primary system (by say 2 degrees). That will
trigger an alarm just in case something goes wrong with the first system. It also should be powered from a separate power
supply to be sure just in case the first one goes down, and should also be checked periodically to make sure it can do it's
job properly when needed.
If it turns out that the resolution isnt good enough to get good repeatability or good results in general, you may have to move
to a digital temperature sensor and use a micro controller.
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?