Toner transfer test

[Mosaic]

Hi all:
I did a comparative 'magazine paper vs parchment paper' test. The parchment was cleaned with isopropyl before printing. Both transfer papers were taped to regular copier paper when printing to avoid crumpling and paper jams. Here are the results:


This is the laminator mod used:
https://hackaday.io/project/3363-apache-al13p-laminator-one-pass-pcb-toner-xfer

 

[mvs sarma]

did you ever try the special A4 sheets sold on ebay?
here is the link
https://www.ebay.com/itm/10PCS-A4-S...086?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d3ff8f62e
perhaps they have heatproof pvc or some such coat on one side. and are NOT costly.

 

[Mosaic]

In addition to Sarma's rec. above....I've found this foil to work well for PCB making.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/160937797413?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT

It is much cheaper (50%) than the green TRF sold by the Pulsar paper folks.
https://pcbfx.com/main_site/pages/products/toner_foils.html

I prefer the 4" wide version as it suits the PCB size I work with.

BTW: It took me 25 minutes to prep a 4" x 6" dbl sided PCB, 220 grit sanding, marking registration holes for double sided thru hole alignment, drilling the holes, printing, trimming & attaching both toner transfers, laminating them, then laminating double sided foil transfers. Add 5 minutes etch time = finished PCB in 30min.

Foiled PCB:


Etched PCB: Blue transparent plastic washes off after etch leaving a metallic mirror finish bonded to the underlying toner.

 

[mvs sarma]

Very nice dig. Perhaps the e-bay yellow papers are still cheaper at 10 nos A4 sheets at less than 2$. The processing time is approximately same or even less with yellow paper as dip in water etc is not there.

 

[MCU88]

Very nice dig. Perhaps the e-bay yellow papers are still cheaper at 10 nos A4 sheets at less than 2$. The processing time is approximately same or even less with yellow paper as dip in water etc is not there.

I have found the the cheap yellow papers to be good despite what some people say about them. But if you do not know what you are doing and apply too much heat from the cloths iron then the paper becomes difficult to remove... Good value at 20-cents a sheet if you know your stuff / kinetic skills...

 

[MCU88]

Foiled PCB:
View attachment 92485

Etched PCB: Blue transparent plastic washes off after etch leaving a metallic mirror finish bonded to the underlying toner.
View attachment 92484

How are you tinning your boards?

 

[mvs sarma]

we can always apply proper heat.
I did have failures. Yes, during learning time. but during then even, peeling it off was not an issue.
later I know the temperature setting and time duration to iron. most things go well now with the e-bay thermal toner transfer paper.
of course i do have some issues related to uniform thick ground plane while printing. this issue arose even with pulsar paper. I do use that and i have stocks bought from an Indian distributor from Mumbai, along with green TRF foil.

 

[MCU88]

we can always apply proper heat.
I did have failures. Yes, during learning time. but during then even, peeling it off was not an issue.
later I know the temperature setting and time duration to iron. most things go well now with the e-bay thermal toner transfer paper.
of course i do have some issues related to uniform thick ground plane while printing. this issue arose even with pulsar paper. I do use that and i have stocks bought from an Indian distributor from Mumbai, along with green TRF foil.

I too have had failures during learning time. I have found with the cheap Chinese paper that the bigger the artwork the greater the chance of having dramas. The paper is very thin. I either have difficulty removing the paper and or fail sometimes to transfer some of the tracks and donut pads to the board with the toner still remaining on the paper.

I purchased many moons ago some slightly more expensive and thicker paper from South Korea. It was a lot more forgiving with the amount of heat and duration of the heat. Unfortunately this seller on eBay has no more paper to sell. I purchased only 20 sheets and quickly used them all on an run of power supplies that I handmade and sold on eBay.

 

[Mosaic]

Well I have some of the yellow paper ordered. I note the pulsar paper is backed by thicker stock, perhaps to even out the heating. I could always add a sheet of copy paper during the lamination process. I'll do some testing when I get it as I have a modded laminator with good control.

To tin the etched PCB I remove the foil & toner coating with a light sanding and an acetone wipe. As an alternative to tinning, using pure petroleum jelly as a wipe keeps the board from oxidizing for several days and solders well! I apply that before I apply the paste because the cohesiveness of the p.jelly helps bind the solder paste to the PCB during the stencil application. The p.jelly also stabilizes the plastic transparent stencil when registering it with the copper pads before taping down.

In combination with my reusable laminate plastic (3mil) laser cut stencils applying paste in a couple of minutes I was able to pick and place all smd parts and hot air solder the PCB in 15 mins.

https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/solder-stencil-from-3-mil-laminate-sheets.144558/

 

[Tony Stewart]

We used to routinely use film from gerber done at lithographic printers and photo etch for 10 mil track & gap with spotless results same day for fine pitch SMD in the lab.

If one wanted features down to 10u" stainless steel laminates are done nearby with flushed aciditic etching.

 

[Mosaic]

The method we're discussing yields good results with minor consumable costs @ home in < 1hour.
Manual vias are an annoyance though. You sometimes overlook them during assembly.

 

[Tony Stewart]

I would prefer to get a panel of boards made properly for $50 avail in some shops.

 

[mvs sarma]

Well I have some of the yellow paper ordered. I note the pulsar paper is backed by thicker stock, perhaps to even out the heating. I could always add a sheet of copy paper during the lamination process. I'll do some testing when I get it as I have a modded laminator with good control.

To tin the etched PCB I remove the foil & toner coating with a light sanding and an acetone wipe. As an alternative to tinning, using pure petroleum jelly as a wipe keeps the board from oxidizing for several days and solders well! I apply that before I apply the paste because the cohesiveness of the p.jelly helps bind the solder paste to the PCB during the stencil application. The p.jelly also stabilizes the plastic transparent stencil when registering it with the copper pads before taping down.

In combination with my reusable laminate plastic (3mil) laser cut stencils applying paste in a couple of minutes I was able to pick and place all smd parts and hot air solder the PCB in 15 mins.

https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/solder-stencil-from-3-mil-laminate-sheets.144558/

Some supplies had thicker white stock, while older supplies were NOT so thick and had darker Jade (or bluish tinged as compared to active coated surface).

i had seen both versions.

 

[Mosaic]

I would prefer to get a panel of boards made properly for $50 avail in some shops.

Not all of us live in countries where such services are available without added customs and shipping.

PS: and the thread title is Toner Transfer test... not how to buy from a PCB shop.

 

[Tony Stewart]

Ok , then cleanliness , particle/dust free work area is key with HEPA filter front flow bench for avoiding spots.

 

[Mosaic]

All that's needed is an alcohol wipe to be 'clean enough'. HEPA is not required.
It's not PCB production. It's prototyping.