Trace Elliot amplifiers.

Nigel Goodwin

Super Moderator
Most Helpful Member
I think I mentioned it previously, but an old friend of mine has moved back to the UK (from Croatia), who was previously the bass player in the band I used to do the PA for, and (like the Blues Brothers ) he's reforming the band for a reunion gig - this coming Saturday, 31st Aug.

So we've been collecting and building gear, at the lowest cost possible

One thing he bought was a Trace Elliot bass amplifier, AH200 (presumably off Ebay?), and he's built a 4x10 cabinet, and a 2x15 cabinet, both 8 ohms. However, I then had to repair it, as it was intermittently crackling and buzzing.

Yesterday I went to see him, and he's now bought a Trace Elliot EPAS 400 (again presumably off Ebay) - rather a strange device, but googling it shows it as an amplifier for electronic drums, 200W per channel stereo. Again this has the same intermittent crackling and buzzing problem.

So here are a couple of pictures of the EPAS, it weighs a ton, and has a rather huge conventional transformer, with nice large reservoir capacitors. It had exactly the same fault as the other amplifier, on the first picture there's a six pin plug connecting to the preamplifier, notice there are two screened leads (left and right) with the screens joined together and connected to a single pin. These pins aren't intended for screen connections, and thus the ground pin wasn't making a good connection. The earlier mono amp had a SIL style socket, and had the exact same issue.

In both cases, a little squirt of WD40 on the connections, followed by reinserting the plug, and then carefully pushing the screen pin fully home using a jewellers screwdriver completely cured the problem.

Looking at the pictures below, it's a fairly nicely built unit, and looks like a really well made home made unit

Notice the florescent starter and choke, rather bizarrely there a front display (using the 6 pin connector at the top) which has two 7 segment displays showing the model number, plus a UV tube lighting up the front controls - this is switchable from the rear.

Notice on the bottom picture, there's a thermal protection switch on the heatsink, and that there's only two transistors per channel (it's rated at 200W in to 8 ohms), where the earlier amplifier was rated at 200W in to 4 ohms, and had four transistors. The earlier one used the usual 2SK/2SJ FET pairs, so I presume this has the same - but you can't read the numbers with them down in the heatsink.

Nice little amp, but if you come across a cracking and buzzing problem, it might be worth checking any plug and sockets connecting preamp to power amp.

Got to put it back in it's case now, due to it's weight I struggled getting it out - so sliding it back in might be fun


 
Nice find!
So, if I understood you correctly, the fluorescent starter is for an UV lamp? Itself a fluorescent lamp without the phosphor.
I bet that a photo cannot accurately portray the glorious glow!

What is the value of those “beer can” capacitors?
 
Nice find!
So, if I understood you correctly, the fluorescent starter is for an UV lamp? Itself a fluorescent lamp without the phosphor.
I bet that a photo cannot accurately portray the glorious glow!

No, it seems a strange idea really

What is the value of those “beer can” capacitors?

I'm ashamed to say I didn't look. I did look at the transformer, but there were no markings on it.
 
From a new memeber who is an old amp tech, don't get into the habit of spraying WD-40 on any electronics. That stuff is great for rust, but leaves a residue behind that is only going to attract dirt. I recommend a good product called DeoxitD5. That's what most amp techs use. It works wonders on pots and switches. You can get it in a spray can or a little dripper bottle, which is what I use on relay contacts and other industrial repairs (the day job).

That amp is a beauty! Love that they are amping up the glow with UV!
 

I would disagree, while you shouldn't spray WD40 (or pretty well anything else) ON electronics, it's great for cleaning potentiometers and switches, the 'residue' is what makes it good - the fine oil residue replaces the original lubrication in the pot/switch, which many switch cleaners just wash away.

We switched (deliberate pun ) to WD40 as a switch cleaner back in the 70's, and used it for decades with excellent results.

A tiny squirt is all that's needed, don't flood the controls.

As for the amp - in the end it wasn't used - although it was on stage and plugged in, looking cool
 
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