Truth in Battery Specs?

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Nigel, does it matter if the headlight is powered from the battery, or directly from the generator? They are all connected. And yes, I've replaced every bulb w an LED.

Rjenkinsgb, I'll take a look at the dynamo, although it's got less than 10k miles. It can't be that worn. It's my understanding that the system was marginal even when new.

The LEDs are new for this season, I hope they help.
One question; how much draw is the ignition system, vs the lighting?
It would be interesting to see which is using the most current. I am happy to sacrifice the lighting if it keeps the ignition running.
 
sign216 said:
One question; how much draw is the ignition system, vs the lighting?
Click to expand...
The ignition running current is likely around 4-6A.
The total incandescent bulb draw is probably comparable.
If you convert all bulbs to LEDs, that should be a big help in reducing the current draw.
 
crutschow said:
The ignition running current is likely around 4-6A.
The total incandescent bulb draw is probably comparable.
If you convert all bulbs to LEDs, that should be a big help in reducing the current draw.
Click to expand...

Okay, so they are about equal. The lights are fully switched over to LED, but given the age of the elec. system, it may be a push.
I.e. the reduced LED current draw may be met with the reduced output of the now 50 yr old system.

Nigel thought a solid state regulator wouldn't give me much more current.
Any other ideas?

And....going to my original question, can I trust published battery specs? If the wet cell battery gives me 20% more power, I can live w a shorter life. But if it's specs are just advertising copy, then I'll go w the more advanced battery.

Joe
 
sign216 said:
Nigel, does it matter if the headlight is powered from the battery, or directly from the generator? They are all connected. And yes, I've replaced every bulb w an LED.
Click to expand...

As it's a dynamo, probably not, but the crude alternator type systems generally have a winding for charging the battery, and another for directly feeding the headlight.

Have you replaced the headlamp bulb?, and how legal is it? - as far as I'm aware after market LED conversion bulbs aren't legal, as they don't match the headlight design.

But if you've gone to LED's you've drastically reduced your power requirements, and I would imagine the dynamo should be well up to the task now - it might be worth trying to make an electronic control unit, which should keep things more accurate.
 

This has the dynamo charging the whole system, not the headlight directly.

I've got an LED headlight. In the USA the vehicle laws are done by each state, and in my state, Massachusetts, they are pretty relaxed on headlights, especially with antique vehicles, so I'm confident it'll pass.

By "electronic control unit" are you talking about the voltage regulator? I'm open to upgrading away from the mechanical unit, it that's possible. Mechanical electronic devices can't be a good choice, right?
 
sign216 said:
can I trust published battery specs? If the wet cell battery gives me 20% more power, I can live w a shorter life. But if it's specs are just advertising copy, then I'll go w the more advanced battery.
Click to expand...
My feeling is that the battery ratings are comparable, in that they are probably all somewhat equally optimistic.
I wouldn't think one is more accurate than the the other.
sign216 said:
Mechanical electronic devices can't be a good choice, right?
Click to expand...
The old automotive mechanical voltage regulators were fairly reliable but can be hard to test to determine if they are operating correctly.
Certainly a properly designed solid-state regulator would likely be better.
Something like this might work for that.
 
Crutschow and shortbus,
Thank you for the recommendations. I'm cautious about substituting a new regulator in, as I may not be skilled enough to check that it's working correctly.

Crutschow, that company seems good, but more geared to positive grounded Brit bikes, right?

Shortbus, that's a great price. Can I simply substitute a Harley Davidson regulator for an old Benelli? It is all as simple as that? They must have completely different elec. systems.
 

Their website clearly explains that they do both negative and positive earth versions. Weren't old American vehicles (back in the 6V days) positive earth as well?, it's only very old UK vehicles that were positive earth - and it's trivial to reverse the polarity, simply by a brief pulse to the field coil (reversing it's residual magnetism) - this was often done to change the polarity of the vehicle.

As for 'checking', you simply run it and see how it works.
 
sign216 said:
Shortbus, that's a great price. Can I simply substitute a Harley Davidson regulator for an old Benelli? It is all as simple as that? They must have completely different elec. systems.
Click to expand...
Possibly.
It does state it's for a 6V system with brushes, which sounds similar to yours.
If it doesn't work, then the generator will likely either not charge, or overcharge the battery above about 14.6V, which can be readily checked with a fully charged battery to start with.
 
To muddy the waters further.... For a given physical size, a lower capacity battery may be a bit more rugged. Lower capacity generally means fewer plates, and the plates can be a bit thicker. Higher capacity requires more plates, and they will obviously need to be thinner. Ruggedness may be an important factor in the high vibrational environment of a motorcycle.
 
Thanks all. So... the consensus is that the glass mat battery and perhaps a change to a solid state regulator, as well as LED bulbs?
I'm 1/3 of the way there, and the rest appears easy enough.

The Accel voltage regulator is cheap enough; https://www.electro-tech-online.com/threads/truth-in-battery-specs.156574/
I don't trust Ebay. That brand is a quality one? Shortbus, I'd rather buy it from the factory website. Just gives me more peace of mind, and/or vendor support.

Joe
 
sign216 said:
I don't trust Ebay. That brand is a quality one? Shortbus, I'd rather buy it from the factory website. Just gives me more peace of mind, and/or vendor support.
Click to expand...

Yes Accel is one of the oldest and most trusted brands of aftermarket electrics for cars and bikes. Accel is an affiliated Holley company and there products are on par as the best out there. If you want to make sure it will work for you maybe Email Holley tech.

Buying from Ebay is also good when staying in the country, documentation and support will come from the factory and not the seller, but don't actually know that seller.
 
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Thanks Shortbus for the recommendation. I know the big names (GE, RCA, etc) but not the other major vendors.
I'm going to research the solid state replacements for the mechanical regulators, and post my queries in a new thread, so I can learn what the board thinks.
 
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