Capacitors basically let changing signals pass through them. Higher frequency signals pass through capacitors more easily than lower frequency. Larger capacitors (measured in Farads[F]) pass lower frequency signals more easily.
You can also think of capacitors like little batteries than can charge and discharge.
They can be used to filter, absorb voltage spikes, quickly supply power where needed, and a bunch of other similar things.
Have you checked to see if you get power to the horn when you press the button? Also check that it is earthed well (usually they are connected to the bike frame to earth it) check and clean where it meets the frame. If you get no voltage reading, then the fault is with the switch, or wiring between the switch and the horn.
Next try connectong the horn directly to the battery, If the horn doesn't work, I would suggest that it is either faulty, or the wrong horn (eg a 12v horn on a 6v bike) If it is the correct Horn, you can sometimes get them working by tapping the horn while it is connected. A horn works by making a metal plate 'vibrate' using an electro magnet, sometimes this plate can get 'stuck' if it's been wet.
I would suggest replacing your faulty battery would be of more use, in many ways a capacitor is like a very small battery - it stores energy, which it can then supply back. Your battery should already be doing this, with a LOT more capacity than a capacitor can provide.
Presumably this is a 6V bike?, with lights powered directly from the engine, and a pathetic little 6V battery that isn't big enough for the job, and doesn't receive enough charging current from the engine at low speeds.
If I sound bitter, it's because I've had bikes like that!
Not little bikes either, I had a Yamaha DT400, a 400cc trail bike, the electrics were really poor!.
Capacitors basically let changing signals pass through them. Higher frequency signals pass through capacitors more easily than lower frequency. Larger capacitors (measured in Farads[F]) pass lower frequency signals more easily.
You can also think of capacitors like little batteries than can charge and discharge.
They can be used to filter, absorb voltage spikes, quickly supply power where needed, and a bunch of other similar things.
Sometimes, someone wants the challenge of actually repairing something. . . So that they can stand back and say 'I did that'. Sometimes people can't afford to 'go and buy another one' so they try to repair it themselves. . . and sometimes people just want to 'learn by doing'
So it may be 'easier' to go and get another one, but what's easiest isn't always what's best.
Sorry if i seem like a grumpy old goat, but far to many times I hear 'why bother, just go and get another one' or 'if you dont know what you're doing, get someone who does' for most of us, the fun is in learning, and we get a sense of acheivement when we've finished a project.
i love u fingaz, u r absolutely right.
I want to learn and invent, ? going on there.
Very good news is from 2/3 days I found the horn crying (thoug not accurately). i assuming that the switch and other connections are faulty on the bike. Ally give me CT90 models wiring system, I'm not clear its combination switch's connections. any one clear me, the diagram is found on my other post called " does any one know the bikes wiring system"
All you have to do is follow the wires from the switch to the horn, check continuity with tst meter, or battery and bulb. check voltage to the switch. chances are, if it works, but not well, then it's like nigel said earlier. . . just that the bikes generator doesn't give enough power at low revs. But try cleaning all of the connections anyway, corroded connections won't help.
Very good news is from 2/3 days I found the horn crying (thoug not accurately). i assuming that the switch and other connections are faulty on the bike. Ally give me CT90 models wiring system, I'm not clear its combination switch's connections. any one clear me, the diagram is found on my other post called " does any one know the bikes wiring system"
You may be correct, sometimes the push buttons gets dust and other material stuck on it that drops the voltage. Better to follow like:
1- Remove your horn from the bike. Power it with battery (charged battery). If it still sounds low or distorted, take a look inside the horn. It may be damaged or having some material inside it. Open it and repair / clean. Then again connect to the battery and see if it sounds correct. If still not, your horn now may need to be replaced.
2- Check the push button. Open it and clean with WD40 or equivalent type of contact cleaner.
3- Check the wiring continuity with a multimeter, it should show a very very low resistance. If not then check the joints or replace the wiring.
4- Be sure to check your battery first. Is it charging correctly? Check the voltage from the rectifier at low and high RPM (change accelerator gradually). The voltage should be greater than your battery rated voltage and should increase as you increase the RPM by accelerating.
5- Also check the rectifier also for open or short circuit. If your rectifier is faulty (short), the lights will work but the horn will not. As the lights can glow on both AC and DC voltages but the horn does not sound on AC.
Aily
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MOM!!!! My circuit does not sound. Take it to an ENT specialist.
I am also not that much clear about that switch. I believe that your yamaha 80 will not have this sort of combination switch. So you dont need to worry about this.
That's what i think. Sorry! I cannot help in this regard.