I've built a fairly extensive robot on solderless breadboards like this:
**broken link removed**
I would like to solder them by just easily transfering them onto a protoboard that matches that. Unfortunately after hours of searching I have not found anything that offers both power busses on the bottom and the top. I have A LOT of connection because i'm using a 40pin PIC IC. Can anyone point me in the right direction.
I would have figured this to be quite common yet digikey/newark/mouser/etc do not carry anything at all.
e-bay has come close but still nothing that matches the solderless breadboards that we have all come to use. I really am shocked that such a board doesn't exist, it seems the easiest way to transfer breadboarded circuits to a solderable state!
If you have a robot that you have finished working on (making changes etc) then I strongly suggest making a PCB of the circuit. It looks a LOT nicer and "cooler" if you will... bunch of wires are a piece of **** and shows a lot about the designer... a "good" designer tries to avoid wires as much as possible because they are the first things to melt/break/get tangled etc... Why else are more and more equipment with no wires at all or with aluminum defended flat cables soldered and glued VERY strongly to the PCB...
those are solderLESS, i need the solderable versions...which I still have not found (i did purchase the ones from FutureLec as they are the closest I have found so far). I'm not going with a PCB because this won't be a duplicated kit and it will never be shown to anyone else (so why spend the $$$ to have a one-off custom made). Thanks for the help.
i agree, i have found many boards like this but i need both busses and the top and bottom of each IC channel because I have many 5V and GND connections to make.
Just be careful on futurelec orders, time between order and shipping is pretty bad. I have an order placed currently that is 3 weeks old and still hasn't shipped.
Sceadwian, I actually ordered two of the large boards and recieved them today (took about 2 weeks but I put express shipping).
They are the closest thing to what I was looking for but the "busses" at the top are actually not busses, they are just metal strips which aren't very useful. The other two sets of "busses" (the 5-point pads) need to all be connected so the usefulness of the busses is kinda depleted).
I will post some pictures when I'm finished soldering, I'll fill up most of these solderable boards.
why do people keep linking to me solderLESS...i already have those, I need to transfer them to a solderable board, but I still have not found one that matches!
I'm confused delusional, did you not see the 777 prototyping board on that page? It's layout is identical to a solderless breadboard with additional tie points along the edges and an extra bus line down the center. Anything you can put on a solderless breadboard can be transfered to one of those boards directly using only a photograph of the original breadboard as a guide.
I'm confused delusional, did you not see the 777 prototyping board on that page? It's layout is identical to a solderless breadboard with additional tie points along the edges and an extra bus line down the center. Anything you can put on a solderless breadboard can be transfered to one of those boards directly using only a photograph of the original breadboard as a guide.
yes, I also ordered 2 of the 777's but trust me they are not the same length. I admit that they are the closest thing so far, but I have my breadboard's packed down each length and really need that extra space. The "Prototype Board Large" directly underneath the 777 is the same length as the solderLESS version but does not have full busses at the top, just 5 post pads which must be connected together.
I do have both the 777 and the larger version and the larger version is the closest I have come. It's working for now but I still can't believe they don't make a direct transfer capable solderable version. Thanks for all the help though.
yep, that would certainly have worked. I have a few boards I'm using now from Futurelec and although they are a bit of a hassle I have managed to make them work!
Thanks for all the help and I'll certainly bookmark that pdf so I can order them in the future!