12DC Sockets

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lol, forgot about vid of bobby, on there because most of us in bike club are older & own pets edit: & yes, thats the bobby I walk each night.lol........copper......LOL

Seems you can see what I want now, post 21 shows photo of three fuses, now need five
Post 23 shows photo of cig sockets = bulky & bad connections, now need four

Idea is to create small good connections so the £'sssss worth of gadgets can be removed easily for daily commute to work then simply be plugged back in for ride outs.
I see you were on about device sockets, devices are locked down pretty tight, I'll put photos up later when back on computer so you can see what I mean, but overall I think you can see exactly where I'm going now

Box incorparating relay/fuses/sockets in one place with clean power for audio side of things
 
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All the USB devices come with car cig socket with that infamous mini pcb inside, we've been working on it, Only I think we can do a much better job ;-)

It's what got me started, trouble is, I don't want to be told how to do something, I want to understand why, then once I got going I kept thinking of more stuff to do. i.e. radio repair etc, I don't even need it as I've brought a new one but would love to know how to repair it, knowing the time isn't in my nature, like you I want to know how it does it
 
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Just looking back over post 102 at draw, am I right in thinking as follows:
Build a 10A box with overload shut down, but really it will draw about 6.5A meaning it should run cool as it would be designed for 10, so this should work really well
Have you guessed I'm enjoying this yet.lol
 
Noting the time of your last post, don't want to give the impression that all I do is sit around waiting for you to post.

Just sometimes hit it right (LOL).

it is a common problem until you put heatsink on back of them
Click to expand...
(from your post #102)

Have you done that? A very good idea from the onset, given the current draw for "normal" stuff. Course, have no idea what sort of extra design/work that might entail.

For the extras, (6.5A), the 12VDC items really only need fuses.

The USB (5VDC) items are, as you have seen, a bit more problematic, due to they're sort of "finicky" ( an electronic technical term...) power requirements.
That part needs to be carefully addressed. Perhaps by scavenging your existing mini-power supplies (that we reversed engineered) and mounting them in their own box/

just a thought.

One thing to remember is that a single chip regulator's attachment point is electrically "hot", so the heat sink needs to be situated such that it cannot short to ground.

Have you guessed I'm enjoying this yet.lol
Click to expand...

Yeah, did get that impression...
 
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Yes if you look at post 21, you will see small heatsink plate behind reg/rec with compond on, it's my OCD, once I heard one of the lads paid £1k after it ate his ecu & ignition control box......eek!
Another had his go in Scotland, seems like a bad design?

Most of the 12v stuff is electronics except for the heated gear, hence me feeling the need to protect it

I can't believe your not on the edge of your seat waiting for mynext post lol
 
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Your right. There are adapters for the standard big ends to mini and micro USB connectors. They just make nice lever arms.

You know, one possible idea is to purchase a commercial 12 V to 5 V DC-DC converter that would handle all of the USB stuff.

1) It would be nice if one of those USB controller type chips be allowed to set the specs of a given port (i.e. capabilities.) up to 2.5 A of charging. Maybe DIP switch controlled. Who knows.

2) Use a higher current single power supply and put 0.5A fuses for each USB port.

These **broken link removed** lighter plugs are the BEST I have ever seen. I purchased a couple of them. They are just superb. If you remove the red end, they fit in the DIN sockets on the same page and lock into place.

FWIW: Graham needs to look for IP67 which is a waterproof spec. There are available dicast flanged boxes with "0-ring" seals.

3) I also seemed to gather that there are other devices that he might wish to power.

This website has gotten so bad, you can't even tell what they are offering. **broken link removed** I like their products. The whole idea behind them is that a special "TIP" that contains a few resistors set the current and voltage limits. They have devices for moble and laptops. They combined a 120 V input with a 12-24 V input. In the versions I have only the cord is different. They also support an airplane power connector. The resistor/current info can be found in the patents. They only list by device and not by voltage and current limits. Thus you could have a waterproof cord at one end and a "TIP" for your other devices. Just incorporate the charger into your case. So, you would need to label the TIPS very well.

I know that they are trying to mimic the signatures of devices so it can be more compatible to more devices.

The device I had also had an adapter that changed the output to accept the mini devices which also have special tips. You might only be dealing with mini-devices.

So, you could have a few ports that are standard 0.5A protected by fuses and one of their chargers to support other mobile devices.

Now, I'm being off the wall.

Food for thought. MUNCH! MUNCH!
 
**broken link removed****broken link removed****broken link removed**

Don't tell me how to do it, I'm detemined if it takes me a week, but you can say 'yes' or 'no'

It has nothing to do with the function generator does it? I'm ruling them out one by one, nor the multi meter **broken link removed**

so it has something to do with the sillyscope (affectionately named by me after spending all this time with it **broken link removed**) & the signal analyzer, I'll check em both over again tomorrow

so much for steaming ahead
 
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This waveform pattern, I have played so much, I need to start from scratch
Messed all the settings up on sillyscope
The nearest thing I can get is a blue flash
 
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Oh my!

Not the BLUE flash

Now you've done it.

Check ALL your files. DO NOT TURN OFF YOUR MACHINE!!!
 
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Ok, let's start with some q's :-/
Why are we looking in XT when recorder is in XY?

I see KISS told me how to do it in post 397......sigh
I am on the right channel aren't I? VM2 on collector of T3
So I need horizontal axis (on recorder? Can't find any otherwise) on mS & vertical on kHz or volts?
 
Good night, Graham.

Here's a place to start for using the scope:

View attachment 61035

Select the Oscilloscope under the "T&M" menu.

Set the various button options to the following values:

Trigger: Mode=Auto, Source=VF1
Level=0
Horizontal: Time/Div =2m
Position=0
Mode=Y/T
X Source=VF1
Channel: VF1
Coupling=AC
Vertical: Volts/Div=1
Position=0

Under "Cursor" you want A

Under "Storage" press Run or Stop as desired.

Play with the "Horizontal" Time/Div selection and watch how the trace changes

Then the "Vertical", same way

Then play with them all.

Double click on the VF1 icon of the simple circuit. Click on "Signal" (currently showing "Sine Wave") then the little button with 3 dots. You"ll see the particulars for the signal coming from the VF1 source. Change them as you like and observe what you get on the scope.

Do not save the file. Leave it as it came to be able to return to it unchanged.

Enjoy.

CBB
 
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This is part of another way to attack your problem:

Something like this: https://www.powerstream.com/dcdc.htm

combined with multiple ones of these IC's

https://www.electro-tech-online.com/custompdfs/2012/02/MAX1607-5.pdf

This would handle all of the normal 0.5A USB devices. If for some reason you have a non standard device, I'm not sure what you can do. I think you might be able to designate certain ports to be high power 1 Amp.

If, you had something like a RAZR phone, you would have to procure the special cable or designate a particular port for that peripheral and put the resistors internal to your box.

The problem is, the signature is proprietary especially for Apple.

Somewhere, long ago, I did read about a controller that mentioned what it supported and mentioned the proprietary nature.


What you don't want is 5 of those ciggy things.
 
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