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As the "sweep" or trace travels across the screen (left to right), the verticle lines mark the time divisions and the horizontal lines mark the voltage divisions. I had that backwards in the post.
I think you should stick to conventional terms like "X axis", "Horizontal Axis", "Vertical axis" and "Y-axis".
Thus you can say in a conventional scope the X-axis is time and the Y-axis is voltage. Your simulator scope can also be used in (X,Y) mode where both axis are voltage.
A dual trace scope usually offers A-B (A minus B) mode as well for differential measurements.
If this lighter thing is 1 kHz, then it's a BAD thing. 1 kHz is in the audio range and therefore it could be objectionable when connected to audio devices.
I was thinking about what I did wrong last night, CBB's explanation clicked as I went to bed, I put voltage on both axis..... Doh, I did say I didn't know what I doing. lol
Looking forward to having to giving it another go tonight
If this lighter thing is 1 kHz, then it's a BAD thing. 1 kHz is in the audio range and therefore it could be objectionable when connected to audio devices.
Technically you could pick any frequency. As the frequency is lowered, the parts get bigger. Think 50/60 Hz power line and 400 Hz for aircraft. As the frequency gets higher, the parts get smaller and as the frequency gets higher you have to worry about RF pollution because your a transmitter. Some frequencies like 15.56 MHz is an industrial frequency in the US. 455 and 262 KHz were typical IF frequencies in AM radios. See: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intermediate_frequency
There is the AM band and the FM band that you would want to stay away from. Regulations prevent you from radiating at certain frequencies.
A simple test you can do is take a small portable AM radio and hold it near the circuit while it's operating. It will likely pick up something depending on distance from the gizmo. The load could change the sound heard.
That made interesting reading, thanks.
So with using audio & pmr, you measure supply wave & design it to stay away from selected signals
So when I was on about clean power, this is actually what it is.
There was a mention of filtering out unwanted freq, so when designing a system how do you know where to start?
I've seen that some freq are dedicated to other things, much like pmr signal on UHF, so what is the difference between VHF & UHF, just different bandwidths, meaning different freq.
You do realise what you've done now don't you.lol now I definately want to learn more so one, my box provides hum free power & two, I get to understand more than I ever thought possible
This has to be the best hobby ever, wish I'd started years ago
You're right, KISS, about the scope's normal designations. Just hadn't gotten to that part yet.
Like I say, someone wanted the time, not necessarily how the watch works.
If this lighter thing is 1 kHz, then it's a BAD thing. 1 kHz is in the audio range and therefore it could be objectionable when connected to audio devices.
Here's where the parts start to come together as a whole. In a switching regulator the DC input is converted to AC (the 1kHz).
That is then converted back to DC by a rectifier circuit AND, to eliminate any residual "noise" of the 1Khz signal, an electrolytic cap is placed across the output from the rectifier for that purpose.
The result is a regulated, smooth, and for the most part noise free, DC voltage.
so what is the difference between VHF & UHF, just different bandwidths, meaning different freq.
Yes. The designations (UHF,VHF) are arbitrary for the convenience of separating the electromagnetic spectrum, same as LF or ULF (Low Frequency and Ultra Low Frequency).
This has to be the best hobby ever, wish I'd started years ago
tHAT'S MY TAKE ON IT. (stupid caps key). Been at it since I was 8. Haven't gotten any smarter, or necessarily any more educated, but I DO enjoy playing with the stuff.
I'm loving this, it sounds really complicated *read: enjoyable*
So the USB devices can be powered by a chip already made, this in itself leads me onto another dilemma.lol
I want power box to have five sockets (like switchcraft originally linked to) main reason is they screw together & are waterproof, meaning no more half recorded video until I hit a bump in the road & cig lighter moves cutting power.
3x12v
2x12v or 5v via some sort of choosable switch/jumper
But that means deciding on how to deal with charger cable to device.....huuuuum
Need to think about that for a bit
So each device would need either: 1:second cable dedicated to supplying power 2: fitting 2 extra USB sockets & risk them coming loose or make some form of latch on USB cable?????
Edit: number 1 seems like the most sensible solution to keep things neat
So each device would need either: 1:second cable dedicated to supplying power 2: fitting 2 extra USB sockets & risk them coming loose or make some form of latch on USB cable?????
Just kidding. Interesting question, though. Haven't ever seen a "lockable" USB cable connector before. But for your purposes it would, you'd think, be necessary.
How about keeping original socket then these as small extensions, would be waterproof & lockable & be able to be changed for different types of USB
**broken link removed**
Ignore this, bad idea, would still need a second cable, might as well get cheap 2nd cable & put one of my sockets on.....least we explored the options, trouble is manufacturers keep changing between USB2 & mini connectors, cutting them off a 2nd cable solves the problem whatever they fit
You'd be surprised the uses we find for duct tape.lol lad In bike club showed me how to make a temp low sun visor, always carry some now *grin*
Got some great vids around UK on bike if your ever bored, just put my name in YouTube, Scotland, Wales, fantastic scenery. Ignore the track day, it was my first & I was rubbish.lol
But it was my gadgets that brought me to this site, long live gadgets
I need to get my head around how you use the devices you're going to power The USB devices) from the box you're making.
Do you use them as you're riding, or only when stopped.
Or only power them to recharge the batteries.
Of course, however you use them, there's still, to my mind, the connection at the device(s), for which, so far as I know, there is no real way to make the connection(s) secure.
For the non-USB stuff (gloves, etc.) I don't guess this is a problem.
Most of the devices i have, have internal batteries & last about 2/3 hrs, few are run off bike power.
They are basically running off bike power all day i.e. up to 10/15 hours, I like my riding, get out very rarely so make the most of it......sigh
Gadgets are basically turned on at start of ride then the only thing I do is use PTT button for yakking to mates, camera tends to go 4/5 hrs before needing new memory card on 16GB, I carry lots of cards.lol
So gadgets basically need. O input from me during ride but losing half a days vid in Scotland which is miles away is somewhat frustrating, yes, you hit the nail on the head, I'm trying to make a power supply that has secure/waterproof connections, box will go under seat so won't get wet as such, but hopefully stop all this damp wrecking connectors (see wild Wales vid)
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