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16meg MP3 modifications

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HarveyH42

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A while back I bought 3 little MP3 players from BGmicro ($5 each), and final got around to cracking open one, fortunately with minimal damage to the case. These things are about the size of usb jumpdrive.

I soldered couple of wires to the play switch, and made an opening in the case for the wires. Soldering was like micro surgery, everything is SMD and super tiny. I had to do it looking through a magnifer, and my iron tip blocked the view, but got it done. Plugged in the power, still works, wire leads work in place of button.

I then opened the battery compartment half, soldered some leads to replace the battery.

Now for the fun part...
To start the player, need to hold the button for about 1 second. I need to do this when I power up the unit. Will turn it off by dropping power (well actually when the NiMH batteries run out).

Plan on using 6 cells for 7.2 volts to run a LM386 amp, the MP3, and whatever control circuit needed. Figure an LM317 will be good enough to drop the 7.2 volts down to 1.5v for the MP3 player, the amp should work off anything over 4 volts.

When I apply power to the MP3 player, I need close a switch for atleast one second to start playing, unfortunately I was unable to follow the traces from the switch, so no telling what's going on. Need something like a relay to do the job. Was wondering if there is something simpler than using a 555 monostable circuit. Just seems like a little much for something that will only be needed for one second each time the power is applied.
 
Was looking through some parts for these little relays I saved a couple years ago, about the size of a 14 pin chip. No luck, but found a box of opto-isolators. Started checking datasheets, but found that almost all are transistor output. Not to sure how that works out, I'm looking for a simple on/off type switch.
I found one with triac output TLP3042, but I'm not entirely sure it functions like a simple switch. The specs say it can handle 600 volts, so guess something running off a AAA battery shouldn't hurt it.

I have 4066 bilateral switches, maybe that would be a better choice. Still haven't come up with a simpler 1 second startup timer. Seems like there would be some other applications for a power up timer.
 
An ordinary transistor will turn on when the power is applied and if it has a capacitor in series with its base and a current-limiting resistor. When the capacitor is charged then the transistor turns off. In 1 second if you plan it correctly.
 
Sound like just the thing I need. Going to run some tests tomorrow to see if the play button has any relation to the battery leads. It would be nice if it does, then I don't need an isolated switching device, can go straight off the transistor.

One question (well, couple...), what type capacitor and in what range. Electrolytic tend to be leaky, and this will be a solar-charged battery project. If the capacitor discharges itself, will the transistor switch again? Guess that wouldn't be all bad for this. Will have to wait and see if the switch goes high or low, or something else to select parts. If I get lucky, the supply is 1.5 volts, should narrow my transistor choices some.
 
The on-off button of the MP3 player might ground part of the circuit (an NPN transistor can do it) or connect part of the circuit to +1.5V (a PNP transistor can do it. Have a 330k resistor from base to emitter and a 100k resistor in series with the base of the transistor to +1.5V for an NPN or to ground for a PNP. A 10uF capacitor will charge in 1 second turning the transistor on, then the transistor will turn off. The 330k resistor makes sure that it will not leak and turn on. Put a 1M resistor across the capacitor to discharge it in 10 seconds when the power is turned off.

Edited parts values.
 
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Just wanted to chime in and say that you might want to rethink your regulator. Stepping down 7.2V to 1.5 is going to burn more power as heat than the device consumes to operate.
 
poopeater said:
Just wanted to chime in and say that you might want to rethink your regulator. Stepping down 7.2V to 1.5 is going to burn more power as heat than the device consumes to operate.

Yeah, I know it. But I don't know much about buck switchers, and most all I've looked at need a special chip and a hand wound coil. Kind a subject for future learning. It does seem like I'm doing a lot of these solar-battery projects lately, and it would be a good thing.

Guess I should give a more overall description of what this one is for, but plan on converting the other 2 players for external triggering (motion sensor, sound, ect...).
I have a video clip of my dog (died last year) howling, which I extracted the audio (haven't encoded it as MP3 yet). So, at his grave site, I want rig this player up to play a song (The Doors, The End, and the howling clip). It's not going to be super loud, or HiFi (though I'm thinking stereo, song sounds much better).

After getting the basic setup working, I'll be able to download 16 meg of sound files (didn't alter the USB plug). It'll be good for halloween, door greeter, cat scarer, burgler deterent and such.
 
Good deal, after a few measurements, I found that I only need to short one switch lead to ground (-). So, I should have the play on power up going shortly with a transistor.
 
Well, didn't get it. Must of mis-interpreted or got confused, now I'm really confused. Figured it best to start over, and come back here.

Can I get this in a diagram.
 
We don't know how much current the switch needs.
This circuit provides a low current. If more current is needed then use a 100uF capacitor and reduce the values of the resistors by 10 times.
 

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Okay, this is only slightly different from what I was working with earlier. Will give it a try and see. Still a bit confused, but might be the frustration of having trouble with something that should be simple. Just missing something I guess.

Anyway, here's some measurements I took earleir today before finding out one lead off the switch is common to the negetive battery terminal.

Battery - 1.49 volts
Across the switch - 1.13 volts
Button pressed, across the button - 0 volts
Play, across button leads - 2.33 volts
 
Harvey,

Measure the current draw from the battery while the player is doing it's thing. I think you'll be able to dispense with a transistor based regulator (lm317) in favor of a zener diode / shunt regulator ... I can't imagine the player taking much current, especially if you plan to have a separate audio amp stage.

Failing that, check out national.com and look at their VLDO linear regs... I believe they go all the way up to 100mA, and will cost you a lot less in terms of waste than the lousy lm317.
 
Thank you, it works perfectly. Tomorrow, I guess I'll need to do some looking into buck converters, or at least something less wasteful than a LM317 to get the 1.5 volts from 7.2 v...
 
audioguru said:
We don't know how much current the switch needs.
This circuit provides a low current. If more current is needed then use a 100uF capacitor and reduce the values of the resistors by 10 times.
Maybe I'm having a brain-fart, but I'm not following how this circuit would work. How would this be used in place of the on/off switch? I think the 'output' and 'switched 1.5V' is confusing me.

edit: nevermind, I just got it. The switch likely has a pullup resistor on it, which I was neglecting. It was throwing me off.
 
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