2nd hand car

[bananasiong]

Hi all,
Thanks for all the valuable replies. I'm going to take a look on the car tomorrow, with all the suggestions by the members
But I don't understand these:
1. A correct amount of blinker fluid.
2. Well greased muffler bearings.
3. High gauss neodymium fuel line.
4. Chassis mounted sacrificial anode.
5. Unsweetened battery juice.

HiTech are you serious or..?

Thanks

 

[rjvh]

1. A correct amount of blinker fluid.
2. Well greased muffler bearings.
3. High gauss neodymium fuel line.
4. Chassis mounted sacrificial anode.
5. Unsweetened battery juice.

Look to the points Allvol mentioned Although it's not a guaranty

A rateling gear box is easy fixed for the sale with some bananas No kidding it works (for a 10 a 20 KM)

Look to the rubbers on the driving axcles and the steering system

Drive in the car (no radio on and lisen if you hear funny noises) and if it drives OK if not
unless your mechanic leave the car alone or buy it cheap

Cars that they say grandma did drive in it don't have small wear and tear scratches in the paint job

if the car gets over the 10 Years check the bottom steel work with a flash light and hit it with the flash light have to sound solid and no dents alowed

if it is known that the car is from a place near the sea you should do this already nafter 5 a 6 years old cars (salty air is corosive)

There are more points but i would always advise you to go with 2 persons (preferably 1 technical) to look the car, the seller have to convince 2 persons and its easyer to detect if he is bull shitting or genuine

good luck
BTW what kind of car is it Brand /model

Robert-Jan

 

[bananasiong]

Ha, I'm going with my girl friend. I have no experience in buying car, neither her I'll just follow the instruction given by the members here.

Oh, and if you're buying in the UK, make doubly sure the crew from top gear did not have the vehicle for a test.

I'm getting Perodua Kelisa, 5 to 6 years old car. Yes, this model has been abused by them

 

[Boncuk]

It is always a good idea to have a little wooden stick (1ft long) and a paper towel when looking for a used car.

Many of them - regardless of the brand - have problems with the valves getting old. With an engine running smoothly one wouldn't notice the difference between a healthy and a dead sick engine.

Using that stick and the paper will reveal the truth about the engine.

Stick them into the exhaust pipe all the way and gently turn them to wipe off the dirt inside the pipe. The deposit on the paper should be brown to light black with absolutely no oily components.

If the deposit contains oil just forget* about the car, no matter how well it is polished and the seat's condition.

Oil deposits build up in the exhaust system caused for two reasons:

a) the camshaft and/or the valves are worn out to a great deal, so the valves don't close properly when they should, thereby wasting gasoline and oil.

b) the piston rings aren't tight anymore and let oil escape from the sump into the combustion chamber - which won't burn without leaving black "charcoal" deposits in the exhaust pipe.

Both of these signals point strongly towards a major engine overhaul - very expensive!

One further test should be done with every car: a full emergency brake test.

By full brake test I understand braking action with all the muscle power you can apply to the brake pedal. Make sure all persons travelling in that car are strapped properly before performing that test. In times of 4-wheel disc brakes there is no reason why a car should break away to any direction applying full brakes. It must stay stable even at speeds of 260km/h (160mph)(no kidding, the Ferrari Testerosa makes 350km/h , while my Ford Cosworth just made 280km/h ) within its given track with only minor corrections for uneven ground.

If the car fails the brake test, see * above in text.

Worn out seats are a signal that the car was used regularly and broken in too, like you would break a horse. This is a minor problem which can be solved by an upholstery specialist at fairly low prices.

Unequal wear of the tires (tyres) lead to the conclusion of faulty wheel alignment which can happen for a couple of reasons, like bumping over a sidewalk, kicking a hard obstruction etc. Get that checked thoroughly before purchasing the car.

If the technical and safety sides are covered you might buy the car. The rest will just be cosmetic operations like new polish and new upholstery.

Regards

Hans

 

[Space Varmint]

Well how much did you want to spend? I've had a few old beaters in my time. If you don't pay to much and it runs, then you already got a good deal. There are some draw backs to that approach too. I got a ticket one time when this guy was going real slow in front of me, so I nailed the gas and went around him and put out such a cloud of smoke from the exhaust the guy couldn't even see where he was going. The cop didn't like that too much.

 

[audioguru]

Sometimes the front of one car is welded to the rear of another car if both cars were in accidents. The resulting welded car is not strong enough.

 

[HiTech]

Hi all,
Thanks for all the valuable replies. I'm going to take a look on the car tomorrow, with all the suggestions by the members
But I don't understand these:
1. A correct amount of blinker fluid.
2. Well greased muffler bearings.
3. High gauss neodymium fuel line.
4. Chassis mounted sacrificial anode.
5. Unsweetened battery juice.

HiTech are you serious or..?

Thanks

If you had to ask me that, then IMHO you shouldn't own a car, let alone purchase one!

 

[AllVol]

Ha, I'm going with my girl friend. I have no experience in buying car, neither her I'll just follow the instruction given by the members here.

I'm getting Perodua Kelisa, 5 to 6 years old car. Yes, this model has been abused by them

Well, are you riding or walking?

 

[bananasiong]

I don't own a car right now. I'm riding a motorcycle.

 

[Mikebits]

What happened to just kicking the tires? Also verify that the ASH receiver functions correctly.

 

[bananasiong]

Hi,
The tyres looked okay, as well as the seat belt and everything inside, including the pedals.
There's no oily component from the exhaust, just some black color powder form thingy (dust?). The oil from the dipstick has no gritty feel, or any acidic odors.
I couldn't open the radiator cap, because that car was just driven to my friend's house when I was there so I'm not sure whether it has the difficulty in starting up in cold. I've noticed another little tank connected to the cooler tank (not sure about these terms), there is some rust in the tank. My friend told me that they usually use water for that, but not any liquid.

 

[arrie]

A lot of good tips there.

And seeing that the top gear team has abused a vehicle such as the one you intend buying, I can only imagine why, here are some more tips.
If they dropped something heavy, such as a skip, on it it means - do not buy it.

Go to a reputable dealer that sells spares for your vehicle - see what they cost. It might be cheap to buy now, but bloody expensive in the long run.
Also get prices for things like bumpers, fenders, headlamps etc. Also, not only pricing, but also availability of such parts.
Don't take the salesman's word, ask to see some of the parts.
It'll be no fun to have to replace some parts, and then having to wait like three months for it.
Kinda like Renault in South Africa (or hopefully used to be).

Good luck further

 

[bananasiong]

I have reason to choose this car.
1. This company is one of the automobile manufacture companies in Malaysia. For the 1st car, I'll just go for lower cost.
2. The reputation of this company in our country is still okay, compared to another automobile manufacturer.
3. Among the cars of this company, this car suits what I want, price, size, etc.
In fact 2 out of 3 hosts for Top Gear support this car

 

[arrie]

Sounds like you know your market well.
Your choice will then be an informed one, better to buy with your head than your impulsiveness.

Good luck further.

 

[3v0]

Hi,
...
I couldn't open the radiator cap, because that car was just driven to my friend's house when I was there so I'm not sure whether it has the difficulty in starting up in cold. I've noticed another little tank connected to the cooler tank (not sure about these terms), there is some rust in the tank. My friend told me that they usually use water for that, but not any liquid.

The 2nd tank on the radiator is called an expansion or coolant expansion tank. As the engine warms up coolant expands and the expansion tank holds the "extra" coolant until the engine cools down and it is required.

In general it is better to use a commercial coolant rather then water to prevent rust in the system. In our neck of the woods it called anti-freeze.

 

[Mickster]

The "Expansion Tank" contains a volume of coolant, nominally between the min and max levels marked on the tank itself.

The tank, and level/condition of coolant within, can be regarded as an indicator of the overall health of the cooling system.

A constantly low level (requiring frequent 'topping up' ) can be an indicator of three possible faults:

1. Pressure cap leakage...The pressure within the cooling system cannot be maintained due to either the cap spring being weak and allowing an early release of 'excess' pressure, or an actual fault in the cooling system causing an over-pressure...such as a thermostat stuck in the closed position, or a non-functioning cooling fan. (these conditions will result in evaporation of the coolant)

2. External coolant leak...This type of leak can have multiple forms, from minor to major. A minor leak is one that can be difficult to distinguish, but not for obvious reasons. Imagine a slight coolant leak directly onto a hot exhaust (typically at hundreds of degrees Celsius with catalyst-equipped vehicles these days) and you can be quite sure there will be some steam as an indicator. Imagine the same leak directed at the engine block, which is probably around 90 - 110 degrees Celsius on a motorway/highway run...Not so much steam produced and the wind-velocity will probably dilute any evidence.

Evidence of external leaks depends upon frequency, severity, location and presence of additives (coolant). Normally, when additives are factored into external leaks, there will be some staining around the area concerned.

Don't discount the fact that no leaks are found within the engine bay, as an indication that the cooling system is definitely OK...the heating system is directly connected and damp/wet carpets can be an indicator of a failed heater matrix.

3. Internal consumption. The term "Consumption" is used because an engine (or automatic transmission) can "consume" the coolant under certain conditions. Examples vary from minor to major.

a). A slight leak on the cylinder head gasket causes the cooling system pressure to leak coolant into the cylinders after the engine is switched off. A minimal amount of coolant is leaked and upon starting, the coolant is expelled through the exhaust as the engine is started.

b). A minor leak on the cylinder head gasket causes coolant only to be drawn into the cylinder on the induction stroke, due to the nature of the gasket failure acting as a reed-valve. Induction stroke sucks in coolant, Compression stroke closes the failure point and no transferrance of pressure takes place.

c). Major leak. Major leaks usually result in an over-pressure of the cooling system and transferring of fluids between the engine lubrication circuits and cooling system. Usual signs are a header-tank/radiator top tank/dipstick that have the colour and consistency of a chocolate milkshake.


The automatic transmission oil circuit can "consume" coolant, due to some modern vehicles having the oil cooler contained within the engine radiator. Failure of the the oil cooler/radiator can transfer either coolant to the transmission fluid, or vice versa.


The colour of the "coolant" can also be used as an indication of the health of the cooling system.

Clear: Usually plain water and only recently introduced. You need to ask why...and why no coolant/Antifreeze has been added. Be prepared to walk away from the sale now...Clear usually indicates a leak requiring constant "topping up" , or complete disregard for cooling system health. (BTW, Anti-freeze solutions are more likely to find a leakage source than water alone)

Coloured (not brown): Usually indicates that the cooling system has had some form of coolant/anti-freeze solution used, but the concentration may not be up to spec and be prepared to have it changed. There are hydrometers/refractometers available to check the concentration.

Coloured brown: Usually plain water that has been in the system for a prolonged period and corrosion has occurred within the cast iron components of the engine.

HTH.

 

[bananasiong]

Thank 3v0 and Mickster for the useful information. I know nothing about car, engine, etc.

 

[rjvh]

In general it is better to use a commercial coolant rather then water to prevent rust in the system. In our neck of the woods it called anti-freeze.

Yes I agree with you but you dont need anti freeze in malasia

even not in the camaeron highlands it will drop down below zero

You have cooland (the radioactive looking green one) that is better for your car as water is the best medium to transport heat/cold energy it does make rubers seals and iron parts in your engine wear out and corosive and brettel

the special cooland is more healtier for your engine
and is basicaly a one time buy in a healty car

Robert-Jan

 

[bananasiong]

Any recommended brand for the coolant?

Thanks

 

[Mikebits]

Yes I agree with you but you dont need anti freeze in malasia

even not in the camaeron highlands it will drop down below zero

You have cooland (the radioactive looking green one) that is better for your car as water is the best medium to transport heat/cold energy it does make rubers seals and iron parts in your engine wear out and corosive and brettel

the special cooland is more healtier for your engine
and is basicaly a one time buy in a healty car

Robert-Jan

Anti-freeze prevents rust and overheating based on the Colligative properties of a solution for the latter.

http://hyperphysics.phy-astr.gsu.edu/HBASE/chemical/boilpt.html#c1