any use for a broken hair shaver!

[Wond3rboy]

i have got this hair shaver which broke due to me dropping it. the plastic cover is broken s now it unrepairable can some one give me any idea on how to sue it in some hing else since the motor is lim(i guess). also is the motor inside a hair drier ac or dc. i usually dont feel comfortable working with ac.

 

[Boncuk]

Broken hairshaver

please forward more details about the shaver.

- does it only work with the power cord connected to a wall outlet?
- does it really have a motor or just a vibrator?

e.g. Philishave use small DC-motors and three rotating blades, Braun uses vibrators cycling as fast as the mains frequency.

Boncuk

 

[Sceadwian]

The linear motor in a shaver is still a motor, about all you can do with it is vibrate things, it runs on your line voltage so they're not excessively useful. The picture looks like a common clipper style shaver. You could crack the case open the rest of the way and pull out the main 'motor' coil, will make a nice high power large value inductor. The head is going to have some decent rare earth magnets.

 

[AllVol]

i have got this hair shaver which broke due to me dropping it. the plastic cover is broken s now it unrepairable can some one give me any idea on how to sue it in some hing else since the motor is lim(i guess). also is the motor inside a hair drier ac or dc. i usually dont feel comfortable working with ac.

Hot glue a scrub pad to that plastic piece, and use it to clean your bathtub.

 

[kchriste]

also is the motor inside a hair drier ac or dc. i usually dont feel comfortable working with ac.

Usually the motor in a hair dryer is a 12 VDC motor. They use the heater as a high wattage voltage divider and tap off 12VAC which they then rectify and apply to the motor.

 

[Hero999]

It's normally simpler than that. The has a bridge rectifier connected to it which is connected in series with the heater.

 

[kchriste]

Interesting. That might work in countries with 220VAC, but in North America that would mean a 12V 13A fan motor for a 1500W hairdryer! It would be interesting to see a woman using such a device.

 

[mneary]

The fan of the hair dryers I've taken apart use the heater as a voltage divider and provide voltage to the motor from a tap.

 

[Hero999]

Interesting. That might work in countries with 220VAC, but in North America that would mean a 12V 13A fan motor for a 1500W hairdryer! It would be interesting to see a woman using such a device.

Or a 6V 13A motor; it's possible they use the same motor, just with half as many turns with twice ths crossectional ares wire.

 

[Boncuk]

Interesting. That might work in countries with 220VAC, but in North America that would mean a 12V 13A fan motor for a 1500W hairdryer! It would be interesting to see a woman using such a device.

Interesting again! Is that the reason why so many women walk around without head in North America? A 156W fan has enough power to blow off heads.

Average hair dryers release just a poop of warm air. Top hair dryers rated 1,500 to 2,000W have a pretty strong air stream which is very hot (burns off hair instead of drying it), but their fans don't either have the power to blow off a head.

Hans

 

[mneary]

Or a 6V 13A motor;

Everyone but kchriste and I are just guessing . I have in my hands a disassembled hair dryer made about 15 years ago for the North American market (OK, I set it down so I could type ) It is rated 120V, 1200W. The heating element measures 15.4 ohms. There is a tap on the heater approximately 2 ohms from one end. This voltage tap (nominally 18V) is full wave rectified and supplies about 15V to the motor. The motor draws 1A at 12V, a fraction of the 10A flowing through the main heater.

For the low power mode, the hair dryer is supplied through a half-wave rectifier, and the motor runs slower as well.

 

[Hero999]

Everyone but kchriste and I are just guessing .

I wasn't, I've actually opened up a hair dryer before and the motor and bridge rectifier was connected in series with the element.

Alright I suppose I was guesing as far as the 120V unit is concerned as I've never opened up a 120V hair dryer.

 

[Sceadwian]

I have a hot air 'embossing' tool that I use as a basement bargain hot air tool, it's wired as described with the heating wire in series with a 12 volt motor (it runs on 120V AC). I don't remember seeing a diode bridge but all I was doing was removing the one time thermal fuse that blew the first time I blocked the air inlet to get a few extra degrees out of it. The heating element is coiled wire though so I'm not sure how much of it is pure resistance vs reactant current limiting. I really wish the motor was run right off the AC though as I find the worst thermal danger of these things is turning the fan off before the heating element has had a chance to cool. If the fan were left on for 20 seconds without the heating element I could put it away right afterwards. As it is now I have to wait for stagnant air conduction to cool off the element so I have to wait near 20 minutes to put it away. By the way, I would recommend removing the thermal fuse from such a device only at your own risk, you have to be very sure you're not going to melt or short something and start a fire.

 

[Hero999]

You could replace it I suppose.

How would you go about replacing a thermal fuse anyway?

I've tried before on an electric balnket but the problem was it was soldered in and I found it impossible to solder the new one in without blowing it even though I tried using ice to cool it.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

You could replace it I suppose.

How would you go about replacing a thermal fuse anyway?

I've tried before on an electric balnket but the problem was it was soldered in and I found it impossible to solder the new one in without blowing it even though I tried using ice to cool it.

They are usually either crimped, or spot welded.

 

[Hero999]

The odd thing is that neither was the case, it was soldered on to a PCB in the temperature control box.

 

[Nigel Goodwin]

The odd thing is that neither was the case, it was soldered on to a PCB in the temperature control box.

Well soldering shouldn't take long enough for the heat to travel to the fuse, it should only be a second or two - if that.

 

[Wond3rboy]

i myself took apart a 2220v braun hair drier(old one) and i didnt find any rectifier. though i did find the heat coil.but i was asonished at the size of the motor cause it was the size of a 12v dc motor!

 

[Wond3rboy]

i meant 220v sorry for the typo

 

[Hero999]

Well soldering shouldn't take long enough for the heat to travel to the fuse, it should only be a second or two - if that.

Well the heat did travel fast enough for it to blow the fuse when I soldered it, perhaps I was doing something wrong?

The leads were pretty thick so I don't see how it could be done.