Automatic Chicken door opener

[schmuckles]

Hey cowboy, i was looking at your schematic and was wondering what the symbol was under the dpdt relay or is it part of the switch? I looked up symbols and it looks like a shock relay. Not that i even know what that is if that's right.

 

[cowboybob]

If you're referring to the arrowed item below:

View attachment 64418

then it's just a stylized representation of the coiled wire forming the electromagnet.

 

[schmuckles]

is this a component of the relay or is it added to the circuit. I am going to radio shack to purchase the dpdt relay and wanted to know if i needed any other components other than the fuse. thanks

 

[cowboybob]

It is an integral part of the relay.

 

[schmuckles]

Cowboybob, i would like to thank you for your time and knowledge. It worked just as you described. Timer on = full extension of actuator / Timer off = full retraction of actuator My chickens will be safe now.

 

[KeepItSimpleStupid]

If sunrise/sunset is important to you, you could use an astronomical timer such as this one: https://www.amazon.com/Intermatic-DT620CL-Indoor-Astronomic-Digital/dp/B001KBZUMG

These basically "compute" sunrise and sunset and the timing cycles can be relative to the sunrise/sunset calcs or a fixed time. In my application, there is a lamp that comes on at slightly after dusk and goes off at 11 PM. They can Daylight Savings Time adjust too.

 

[ska_111]

why dont the links on this page work for me...?

 

[cowboybob]

A system hard drive failure caused the loss of many attachments (schematics, pictures, etc.).

What is it that you wished to see?

 

[ska_111]

I'd like to see the schamtics you posted on the 7th of April 2012 at 2:49am and 2:05 pm. I am basically trying to build the same thing (fully automatic chicken door) and I think am using the same components:
-36v dc liniar actuator with automatic and adjustable limit switches
-DC power supply
-12 volt digital timer
I just don't know what else I need and how to wire it all up.
thanks.

 

[cowboybob]

This is the origial system schematic:



As your actuator has built in limit switches and is "automatic" (in whatever context) it would be useful if you could post a schematic of the unit. Or at least its brand and model #.

It probably only needs a reversal of the polarity of the DC source to effect the reversal of its action. That would make the schematic I posted incorrect for your needs.

I can post a simple polarity reversal schematic, if need be.

 

[ska_111]

Hi Cowboybob,

Thank you so much for your assistance on this, I’d have no idea without your help.
I'd have attached details and all schematic I have on the components and some photos. If they don't work do you mind providing an email address? Mine is ska_111@hotmail.com.
• 36v dc linear actuator with adjustable limit switches. I can’t really find a brand name on it. I got it off Ebay here in Australia. Note that the actuator is supposed to be for moving satellite dishes, the ‘sensors’ on the schematic are irrelevant.
• DC power supply from mains. (Onlv 12v 5amp). I hope this is enough to operate the actuator, if you think otherwise I intend on replacing it with a similar unit but 36v, how many amp would it need to be?
• 12 volt digital timer with manual over ride inbuilt.

I’m ok at construction but have very limited electrical knowledge. Not that great at reading electrical schematics either but I can get help.

This is for a chicken door, the actuator can handle about 250kg. The chicken door will be about 2kg once I’ve add a weight to it to assist closing.

Also, could you suggest a fuse type/size if required.

Thanks Again.

Sam

 

[cowboybob]

Ok.

First, is the power supply you posted a picture of the one that came with the actuator?

If so, what are the "output" specs" (VDC and amps [or simply "A"])?

If not, you will need a separate 36VDC supply with a current capability equal to, or higher than that required by the actutator and a 12vdc, 1A supply for the control circuit.

Having seen the wiring of the terminal box, you can, indeed, use the schematic I provided. You can use the "reed" switches provided for the "limit" switches in the schematic that I posted earlier.

 

[ska_111]

Hi,
The power supply I put a picture of is not the exact but something very similar. Its your basic laptop computer supply. The output I believe is simply 'A'. I'm now a bit confused about the power supply. Which setup do I need so there is only one power supply, not a 36vdc and 12vdc 1A supply. There is no indication on the actuator how many A it requires.
cheers.

 

[alec_t]

If you could measure the DC resistance of the actuator (unpowered) that would allow you to calculate the maximum (i.e. start-up) current for a given supply voltage.
If 36V can cope with a 250kg load then IMO a 12V supply should be adequate for your purpose.

 

[cowboybob]

You've got what you've got for hardware. Let's just go with that.

For a primary test of your system (before you build the "current reversal" device I gave you the schematic for), you'll need to test the PS and its ability to move the actuator motor. The load you intend to put on the actuator (2kg), which represents <1% of the capability of the actuator's max, is essentially insignificant.

Note1: The actuator "opening" and "closing" is effected by reversing the polarity of the DC voltage applied through the attached controller box circuit and then to the motor.

Note2: You'll definitely need a fuse in one of the lines (doesn't matter which) coming from the PS to the controller box of the actuator. I would suggest a "fast blow" glass type of no more than 3-5A (the probable max current output of your PS) and buy several. You'll probably need them.

Arrange the wiring needed to get power from your PS to the controller box's input power leads.

Note3: Since you don't (can't, actually) know for sure what polarity is needed to operate the actuator in a direction that will be the reverse of its current position, you're just going to have to guess at the polarity needed and see what happens.

If you are wrong about the polarity, the fuse should blow since a motor that cannot turn (it's at a "dead stop") will be, for all intents and purposes, the equivalent of a dead short. This, of course, presumes that the PS can supply current in excess of that needed to blow the fuse (can you sense some circular reasoning going on here??).

Reversing the polaity of the leads powering the controller box should make the motor turn. If this is the case, then we can go on from there.

If not, carefully note what DOES happen and let us know.

 

[april]

Here's a schematic:

View attachment 63084

Hope this helps.

I was not able to get this schematic .It is not showing . Have you taken it down?

In Post 8..............Might be the same as 30

Look out for the chook that wants to take a last lingering look at dusk.

 

[cowboybob]

I was not able to get this schematic .It is not showing . Have you taken it down?

What post was that in, april? I'll repost it if I can ID it (or figure it out from the context).

There was an ETO HD crash that wiped out a bunch of attachments going pretty far back.

 

[Ubumartin]

Why can’t I read the posts in this thread. Blocked with member names?

 

[JimB]

Why can’t I read the posts in this thread.

Which posts can't you read?
Which posts can you read?

Blocked with member names?

Sorry, but I don't understand what that means, can you explain a bit more please?

JimB

 

[jpanhalt]

Maybe this duplicates the problem:

Maybe all ubumartin needs to do is go full screen or grab the right margin and open it.

Are you on a mobile device or PC?