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Could you check out the placement of the Components on the board layout and change the layout if they are not in there correct place or Pin out
Greg
The trouble is the LM317 is only rated for a maximum Vin-Vout of 40V but it might be all right if there's no chance of it being short circuited.
You can add a current booster to the LM317, which should enable it to provide 10A but you'll need a large heat sink.
What's the voltage from the alternator when fully loaded?
It's possible that the voltage will drop a lot so it won't need to dissipate the full voltage at the maximum current.
If it has only a single wire, chances are that the rectifier is build in, and that the output is actually rectified DC (pulsing with a DC component). If it really is AC coming out of that single wire, then the best you can do is add an half-wave rectifier consisting of a single high-current diode. There would have to be two wires to utilize full-wave rectification as shown in my previous posts to this thread.I am trying to do the same thing, but I have an small ATC motorcycle. It puts out mid 40's at high RPM. But, if there is a current draw of any kind it might put out significantly less voltage, which is what I think it will. It has a single wire coming out, with the engine case as the other connection. I am trying to absorb these designs.
So far, I see two separate circuits, one a rectifier, and one a regulator, patched together. I take it there is no single TO-220 package rectifier/regulators available? I have a 15-45VAC output from the alternator, and am looking for 13.5VDC output, regulated. I do not know what current the alternator produces. I will check it out with my DMM.
Yes. I'm assuming that you will be paralleling a small 12V battery (like an SLA) across the output of the alternator, and the job of the shunt regulator is to prevent overcharging the battery. The circuit I posted will do that just fine. If you leave out the battery, there will be a very strong ripple, even though the voltage peaks of the ripple will be clamped at the voltage set by the regulator circuit.
What are you planning to power off the alternator/regulator?
You will need either a battery or a large electrolytic capacitor; otherwise the average value of the output will be about 1/2 of the regulated (peak) voltage.
I'm guessing that the inflator draws more current than your alternator can produce, so a small battery would make up the difference, with the charge being replaced after the inflator is disconnected.
I have but one more question: With a steady 3.8A AC , with a varying voltage from 12-70 VAC, about how much current at 13.5VDC could I expect from a regulator/rectifier without a battery?