Hello all, noob here, I am head of electrical at a copper foundry and have been asked to try to revive an old coiler counting project that was abandoned quite some time ago. I have been able to get it powered up and one side I have actually been able to use! to my surprise from being out in the weather for years.
The circuit is based around 3 different chips and my electronics is a bit rusty so to say, the main chip is a ICM7217IJI common cathode 4-digit, 7-segment LED driver with programmable up/down counter. The other two are a LM339 and a CD4011. I am not quite sure as to how they work together, but I had the LM339's and the CD4011's in the shop,(frequently replaced on other motor drive boards). I have also tested and replaced the diose that were bad and a few asst resistors along with two of the LM317T voltage regulators.
I am believeing the the non working side is associated with the ICM since there are two of them one for each side. Although the display does lite up and the thumb wheel preset number does show correctly when changed on the thumbwheel and the reset is pushed, except it doesn't see the proximity switch when activated, yet the little led in the proximity switch lites when I pass metal in front of it with-in 1.5mm . I thought I checked all components and coltage readings are the same between both TB's (sorry Terminal strips 1 & 2 repectively). There are two boards in there one stacked over the other with crude hard rubber stand offs.
I have looked for this ICM7217IJI and have been told it was obsolete since 2000 but there has to be some some where I would think??? I have found surplus chips close but the are common anode not common cathode versions yet there pin-out's are identical with the exception to physical location. Could I just make a sort of adapter or unsolder the chip socket and use short jumper wires soldered in place with the correct locations matching the existing circuit layout??? OR is the problem not with the chip and I am over looking something simple.???????? Many thanks for you help on this if I cannot get it to work will have to find newer control, (Red Lion or Reddington perhaps) but much more involed and $$$ that way
Thanks Everyone
JCD
P.S. I will try to scan both boards and both sides ASAP and get them posted next time I shut that particular coiler down.
The circuit is based around 3 different chips and my electronics is a bit rusty so to say, the main chip is a ICM7217IJI common cathode 4-digit, 7-segment LED driver with programmable up/down counter. The other two are a LM339 and a CD4011. I am not quite sure as to how they work together, but I had the LM339's and the CD4011's in the shop,(frequently replaced on other motor drive boards). I have also tested and replaced the diose that were bad and a few asst resistors along with two of the LM317T voltage regulators.
I am believeing the the non working side is associated with the ICM since there are two of them one for each side. Although the display does lite up and the thumb wheel preset number does show correctly when changed on the thumbwheel and the reset is pushed, except it doesn't see the proximity switch when activated, yet the little led in the proximity switch lites when I pass metal in front of it with-in 1.5mm . I thought I checked all components and coltage readings are the same between both TB's (sorry Terminal strips 1 & 2 repectively). There are two boards in there one stacked over the other with crude hard rubber stand offs.
I have looked for this ICM7217IJI and have been told it was obsolete since 2000 but there has to be some some where I would think??? I have found surplus chips close but the are common anode not common cathode versions yet there pin-out's are identical with the exception to physical location. Could I just make a sort of adapter or unsolder the chip socket and use short jumper wires soldered in place with the correct locations matching the existing circuit layout??? OR is the problem not with the chip and I am over looking something simple.???????? Many thanks for you help on this if I cannot get it to work will have to find newer control, (Red Lion or Reddington perhaps) but much more involed and $$$ that way
Thanks Everyone
JCD
P.S. I will try to scan both boards and both sides ASAP and get them posted next time I shut that particular coiler down.