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Thank you for that.OK, fuse may have been a broad brush, PTC is more correct, hence why it is not "blown".
19th down in the list on the first page.
Isn't this an in car board?, you get massive spikes on the power rails in a car, hence the protective measures.To be honest I am not entirely sure of what I should do & require some advice, I don't want to create issues for the receiver circuits in any way.
All I know is that if an over voltage Zener diode gets damaged then obviously there was something that caused it, inductive spikes are all I can think of.
No, it operates two large hose reels, one for each channel.Isn't this an in car board?, you get massive spikes on the power rails in a car, hence the protective measures.
Thanks Les, could you have a look at post #28 & see what you think,I don't think inductive spikes from the inductance of the relay coil would cause an over voltage at the zener diode. When the current trough the coil is broken pin 85 will try to go positive and pin 86 will try to go negative. The energy stored in the relay coil would not be enough to produce a significant change in the voltage across C1 and it would try to reduce the voltage across C1. The inductive spike would be more likely to damage the driver device connected to pin 85 of the relay coil.
Les.
No mains involved, just a 12v car battery with no battery charging system attached.I wouldn't worry about it, it could have been a mains transient or anything, and replacing the zener with a 1W one will mean it's less likely to fail for a similar reason in the future.
I presumed it was a car device, because of the relay numbers (85 etc.)
I should have mentioned that the relays are driving magnetic clutches very similar to car aircon clutches, so hold down remote button switch on clutch engaged, release remote button switch off disengage. They look exactly like car aircon clutches with mounting brackets attached.Re post #28 IF the relays are suitably rated for the motors that they are driving then there should be enough isolation between the contacts and the coil. The way the contacts are numbered suggects that they are automotive type relays. (I suspect the unit may be designed to remotly control a winch on a truck.) What is the voltage and current rating of the motors that the unit is driving ?
Les.
No mains involved, just a 12v car battery with no battery charging system attached.
I understand that it doesn't appear to be much of a problem but when you have about 300mtrs of hose out down shear drops in extreme heat & you need the spool to retract under power to aid people scrambling back up with the hose & it doesn't work because of a 10 cent diode, boy it's a real issue then & can be life threatening.
Hence the persistence to make sure it never happens again.
Yes, page 5 of MCR, I found that a little confusing when I first read the datasheet because the same company who supply the MCR are the same company who designed & manufactured this circuit board & they did not add those diodes in the design?Page 5 of the MCR datasheet shows what is missing - the diode across the inductive load - in this case across terminals 85 & 86 of the relays.
I would be adding those but use 1N4004 or better diodes instead of 1N4148's.
As per Nigel's suggestion, a 1W zener instead of the original would be a good idea.
They sound like hefty magnetic clutches, so possible they can be putting some big spikes on the supply line.
Rigorous testing would be a good idea after repairing this one with a load 2-3 times what is normally expected.
Possibly because of the many different uses the control pcb might be put to and they just forgot their own advice, wouldn't be the first time.they did not add those diodes in the design?
It made me question why & made me unsure?