Electric motor help

[Les Jones]

Just looking at the dimensions of the motors the 1/8 HP motor in your first link looks the closest match. (I would have thought the motors would need to be more powerfull than this.) The shaft is very much shorter than the original motor so that could be a problem. (Depending on what workshop facilities you have.) Another factor you may need to consider is if the speed of the two motors is different at the same voltage it will probably change the aiming of the ball and cause it to spin. As the motor in the link is rated at 3000 RPM at 90 volts I suggest checking the speed of the original motor at 90 volts.

Les.

 

[alec_t]

I agree the fact that the lable on the motor says 60 Hz would rule out a PM motor.

Not necessarily, if the motor is intended to run on rectified AC, unsmoothed. Isn't that how some treadmills are powered?

what other options would I have?

If you have the workshop facilities, perhaps a twisted belt drive and pulley system could be used so that one motor (obviously bigger than the one you have) provides both clockwise and counter-clockwise drives for the wheels.

 

[Les Jones]

Hi Alec,
I wouldn't have thought the difference between 100 and 120 hz ripple would make any difference to a PM motor.

Les.

 

[gophert]

More info...

No load, full speed current is about 280 mA. Loading it a bit easily runs over 2 amps.
Most of the time it would be running at the 280 at full speed. When a squash ball drops, I guess current draw would spike momentarily and then it would be a few seconds before another ball drops. I would think the inertia of the spinning wheels would take most of the power to deliver the ball but then a slight time lag to get the wheels back up to speed?

Shawn

Look up "Motor Rewinding" and the name of your closest metro area. I'm sure google can direct you to someone who can rebuild your motor or, if not, estimate the specs of a replacement for you.

 

[gophert]

The 60Hz may be an indication of 3600RPM at the rated voltage.

 

[Les Jones]

If I was repiring this devive I would follow Alec's suggestion and use a single motor driving the two wheels. An ex treadmill motor would probably be powerful enough and could be obtained quite cheaply.

Les.

 

[Ylli]

Is there any additional info on this or the other motor? The paper label looks like a rebuild label.

Could always send your pictures to these guys, https://sedaliaelectricmotors.com/ , and see if they recognize it. They seem to be the only motor shop in Sedalia, MO. It's a long shot, but you never know until you try.

 

[gophert]

If I was repiring this devive I would follow Alec's suggestion and use a single motor driving the two wheels. An ex treadmill motor would probably be powerful enough and could be obtained quite cheaply.

Les.

Depending on the treadmill. Some direct drive treadmill motors won't turn fast enough to launch a ball more than 10 mph.

 

[ShawnR]

Gophert

The motor shop I had it into did mention rewinding but at the time, I did not expect to have this much difficulty in replacing it and thought it might be way too much. In hindsight, I may have to revisit that option

Les and Alec....I may consider the single motor option and a belt. It would be a major rework. Otherwise, 2 matching motors. I don't think I can replace one and expect the ball to fly true, as eluded to earlier

Is there any additional info on this or the other motor? The paper label looks like a rebuild label.

Could always send your pictures to these guys, https://sedaliaelectricmotors.com/ , and see if they recognize it. They seem to be the only motor shop in Sedalia, MO. It's a long shot, but you never know until you try.

I did contact them. They only told me that Jensen was gone. Did not offer up anything else. The other motor is labeled the same

Thanks again

 

[unclejed613]

The 60Hz may be an indication of 3600RPM at the rated voltage.

that would make sense, if the clunky abbreviation of "CCWSE" was the brainchild of the same person... most people use CCW. the sticker text was written by somebody that wasn't familiar with the terminology or acronyms/abbreviations. electronics and engineering virtually have a unique language all their own, as many other professions do.

the best way to check for a shorted turn on the armature (rotor, the part that rotates) is using a device called a "growler" which has electromagnets powered by 60hz AC. putting a good armature winding next to it, it buzzes a little. put a shorted armature winding next to it, and it makes a lot of noise. a vacuum cleaner repair shop that has been around for a long time will definitely have a growler for testing motors.

 

[shortbus=]

Looking around at 90VDC motors all of them seem to be industrial style motors, not the stamped cup type you have. That type motor is usually a much lower voltage say 24 and below. What is the voltage on the leads going into the motor, from the controller?

 

[ShawnR]

Varies 50 to 115 VDC, dependant upon speed control

 

[alec_t]

I wouldn't have thought the difference between 100 and 120 hz ripple would make any difference to a PM motor.

Agreed, unless the reactance of the motor winding was critical (e.g. if the motor had been built on the cheap and the reactance reduction on 50Hz caused overheating). Unlikely, though.

 

[shortbus=]

Varies 50 to 115 VDC, dependant upon speed control

The reason I asked this is I have an old snow blower, that is electric start with no battery. You plug into the mains, it goes through a bridge rectifier and straight into a 12V DC motor. The motor is exactly the same one my riding lawn mower uses, same part number. Small DC motors like that are pretty happy running at much higher and slightly lower voltages. Higher than you would normally think would be acceptable. Is there a optical or micro switch in the ball chute? One that shuts down the motor when a ball isn't ready to be launched?

 

[ShawnR]

Would I be able to get the same kind of speed control and range if I went to a 24 vdc motor? I realize that I will need to rework the circuit and power supply. It is just that they are so much more common.

 

[MaxHeadRoom78]

the best way to check for a shorted turn on the armature (rotor, the part that rotates) is using a device called a "growler" which has electromagnets powered by 60hz AC. putting a good armature winding next to it, it buzzes a little. put a shorted armature winding next to it, .

The way the ones I am familiar with uses the armature sitting in a V shaped laminated steel 'Primary' and the armature becomes the secondary,
Each adjacent commutator bars are measure for the identical induced voltage, a shorted turn is indicated by a very low reading for that section.
Max.

 

[shortbus=]

Would I be able to get the same kind of speed control and range if I went to a 24 vdc motor? I realize that I will need to rework the circuit and power supply. It is just that they are so much more common.

It would be the way I would try to fix this, a 24V DC motor. And like you said if necessary change the control output voltage. One problem you may have is finding one with a long enough shaft.

One idea would be to look at heater blower motors from older semi trucks, they I believe were 24 volt at least the ones I was around were. But since they used 2 batteries, the cab may have only been 12V. But I do know that many car heater motors have a longer than normal shaft. A quick search finds many 24V blower motors. This one has dual shafts but one could be sawed off - https://store.rossairworks.com/default.aspx?page=item detail&itemcode=73R4424 Like I said just a quick search Ebay may have better prices, just search 24 volt blower motor there.

 

[ShawnR]

Thanks. I will explore. Tied up for a few days so going to be a bit before I get back.

Cheers,
Shawn

 

[shortbus=]

Some 24 volt motors from Ebay -
**broken link removed**

**broken link removed**

**broken link removed**

Have you tried hooking the existing good motor to 12V? Like your car battery to see if it turns ?

 

[dr pepper]

Hey unc I have a growler.
No good to you though its 50hz.