I have an electric oil heater that has a double switch (for two heaters), and one of the switch light (left) is always On, even when the switch is Off (open).
Heater is switched off, and everything functions normal, except light that is always on.
I have opened the heater to see the wiring, here is the picture.
Brown is live, blue is neutral, red and yellow goes to the heater elements.
Is it possible that the light is on because of the induced current?
I was thinking to change the places of brown wires and red and yellow wires, to put brown wires on top, can that help?
I think the wires to the switch with the light are wrong way round. The swtch will be on the live feed. One side of the neon light in the switch should be connected to the output side of the switch contacts. I think the live feed has been connected to the output side of the switch and the load to the to the input side of the switch contacts. this means that the light will stay lit as soon as the device is plugged into the mains. There will also be a neutral connection to the orher side of the neon bulb. DO NOT CHANGE this wire to a different connection on the switch.
Change the wiring should be last before disposal.
Did you receive this as NEW?
Has this always been this way?
Do you have the instruction manual?
Do you have a schematic?
Are there 5 connections on the switch or 6 ? (The yellow wire is obscuring the view of where there may be a 6th connection on the switch.)
With the two switches in the off position which connections on the switch show continuity to the live pin on the mains plug ? Which connections on the switch show contimuity with the neutral pin on the mains plug ?
If the right hand switch is on by itself does one element come on or does it only only work when the left hand switch is on ?
Switch was replaced by someone, it's new, but I don't know if wiring is good.
Switch is consisted of two independent SPST 3-pin Rocker switches.
Both of them have positions wired like this:
pin-1: Red or yellow wire connected to heater element
pin-2: Brown live wire connected from power cable
pin-3: Blue neutral wire connected from power cable.
Pins 1 and 2 are continuous when switch is On (closed).
Pin 3 is ground.
I think that wires on pins 1 and 2 should switch places, since the pin 1 is input and pin 2 is output.
I have used red for the brown wires as I do not have a brown pen.
I assume both switces are identical so I don't understand why both indicator lights are not on.
If the thermostat is wired as you show it I would expect the lights to go out if the room temperature is above the thermostat setting.
If the right hand switch (From the front.) is behaving as you expect it to then the indicator lamp in one switch is connected to a different connection on the switch than the other
I think just swapping over the brown and yellow wires on the right hand (From the back.) switch will solve your problem.
Your diagram is correct except for the thermostat.
Blue (neutral) wire is coming out of the heaters and goes into the thermostat and out to the switch pin 3 ground and from there to the power cable.
You can see the thermostat on the picture, left terminal is where the blue wire goes in and from the right terminal goes into the both switches pin 3 and then goes down to the power cable.
I think neutral here is used also as ground from switch.
If the right hand switch (From the front.) is behaving as you expect it to then the indicator lamp in one switch is connected to a different connection on the switch than the other
I think just swapping over the brown and yellow wires on the right hand (From the back.) switch will solve your problem.
Maybe, but I asked the person who replaced the switch, he said that previous switch, which was identical, had both lights always on.
I would swap both brown and red and yellow, is it safe to do that?
I did not bother to draw the neutral wire to the heaters.
It is safe to swap over the wires as you suggest but if the light on the right hand (From front) was working correctly that light will then be on all the time. DON'T move the neutral connections on the switch from where they are.