Electronic Program: Circuit Chips

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SeanHall

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OK, my time is very short, so I need help quickly, what I need is a programmable chip, which sends out digital pules (on,off), so as to allow me to create a random die display, the reason I need to know is because if I simply try to connect the decoded decade to the display, wire run over each other and cancel each other out, where as if I had a programmable chip, when say, a current is put though pin 1, a current is put though the output of pin 2 and 3 to make a 1 on the display, so thats why.
 

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Almost any suitably-programmed microcontroller could put out the necessary signals.
 
PIC microcontrollers, by Microchip, are very popular. The problem is that it takes a while to learn to program them. Not to mention, you'd probably need to buy it online, as well as a programmer, and shipping would usually take a week or two. Was this just assigned? If not, why did you wait so long to start?

Personally, I'd go with the 4026, which combines a decade counter with a 7-segment LED decoder. You have the clock input from the 555, and it connects directly to the 7-segment display. It automatically sets the right outputs high for each number. There are also separate chips to do this, but I couldn't find one at first glance. The 4026, though, is probably your best choice.

Regards,
Der Strom
 
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I'm 15 Years Old and taking up electronics as an option, this is my project which will last me 1 year to make, in my school they have the programming "PIC" I don't know how to use it, though we do have it.
 
Also, I used the 4026 chip and it works, although, when stage 1 (the timer) stop stage 2 (the pulser) it also stop stage 3 (the display) and what I want to happen is for the display to stay on, on the final number and have the pulser turn off. Plus since this is a random Dice, the maximum number it should go up to is 6, I know im asking alot, but this is my GCSE at stake and I need to finish off my circuit within the month (on circuit wizard).
 

I see. What you need is a display driver with a latch, meaning the last number showed remains on the display, even after everything else stops.

As for stopping at the number 6, I suppose you could find a separate decade counter and display driver. Then, all you need to do is connect the reset pin of the decade counter to Q7. Therefore, instead of sending out the signal to display a 7, it simply restarts the counter.

However, you're right--a microcontroller would be all you need in one package. If you have 1 year, then that should give you plenty of time to learn about it. There are lots of great tutorials out there for learning. I posted a couple of links below to help you out.

For ASM:

**broken link removed**

For C:
**broken link removed**

Good luck!
 
I took your advice on changing the chip and it works, although, I cant find the right chip to connect the reset pin to, to stop it from going over 6, have any ideas.
 

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Why does IC2 have the outputs a to f shorted together? The chip won't like that.
 
I see, so you went ahead and used the combination counter and decoder in a single chip? I think you'd have to reset it manually, unless you tie in a regular decade counter to "hit" the reset pin of the combo when it reaches 7. Does that make any sense? Basically, as the chip is counting up the combo, and the numbers are showing up on the display, it is also triggering a regular decade counter to count up as well. Then have output 7 connect to both the reset pin on the combo and also the reset on the decade. That's the only way I can think of right away to make it work, unless you still want to use a microcontroller. If you want to learn to program a chip, it won't take much to get it to work (once you know how). It's completely up to you.

Regards.
 
Thanks for your help, I will use a microcontoller, but, does it make a difference on the type of PIC chip you use?
 
SeanHall said:
Thanks for your help, I will use a microcontoller, but, does it make a difference on the type of PIC chip you use?
Click to expand...

No problem. Very glad to help

The only thing you need to be sure about for your microcontroller is that it has enough I/O pins to sense switches and to light your display. I would say a 16F873 should do you fine, though personally I'd use the 18F1330. That way, you'll have a slightly more powerful processor for any other future projects. It is also fairly recent, and works great with Microchip's C18 compiler. The only hardware you'll need is the chip, a breadboard, and a programmer (I use the PICkit2, which cost me only $35. You may be better off buying a PICkit3, which is a bit more recent, but the PK2 will still work fine). The 18F1330 even has a built-in oscillator, so you don't have to worry about taking up pins with a crystal for the oscillator. IMO it is a great beginner's chip--It is what I first started with. The only definite thing, though, is that you'll need a chip that has enough I/O pins to sense a depressed switch and to drive the display.
 
Just to say I have got it working, I got an idea from when you said you could make it rest manually or use a programmable chip, so what I did was: I got a normal 4017b (decoded decade) and attached the power pin to the 555 pin 5 and the output pin 3, (which the 4033b chip is connected to), then I connected the reset pin of 4033b to pin 7 of 4017, so affectedly, making chip 4033 rest from 0 every time chip 4017's pin 7 had voltage, which was when the display showed 6, it would rest back to 1 and start over again, So thank you for the inspiration derstorm8!
 

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Is it working then? I'm trying to understand why you connected the power pin of the 4017 to the control pin of the 555. I figured you could simply connect the clock pin of the 4017 to pin 3 of the 555 (through diodes, because pin 3 is also connected to the clock of the 4033) and output 7 of the 4017 to the reset of the 4033. Could you post a schematic of the setup you have now?
 
Oh, you don't have to have pin 5 connected to the clock of 4017, Iv'e undone that know and it still works, it must have just been a paper weight wire.
 
Now if you think about it, I could run into a huge problem of, when you run it and start the timer the out come will always be 3, when you turn it off and back on, there is no way around this, unless I allow the user to play around with the time, using the variable resistor, unless there is a way to randomize the time?
 
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