Removed for mods
That is NOT a Practical way to Drive a 5 HP Motor.
Any Power Between Full ON and Full OFF will Destroy the Mosfets with Excessive HEAT.
As Jpanhalt Said, PWM would be MUCH BETTER.
Not according to the previously cited IR document:
View attachment 96075
Can you support your spec_ulation with similar data?
John
Not according to the previously cited IR document:
View attachment 96075
Can you support your spec_ulation with similar data?
John
The pictures I posted were for a speed control for a heavy duty Ford 6V starter (without a limiting coil, model 3110) run at 12 volts and used as a high-speed winch for launching model sailplanes. Exact current draws are not available. Most users report at least 225A. Some users estimate it as high as 5 HP (about 300A). I used 5 IR power mosfets in TO-220 packages in parallel, and we could stall the motor without popping a mosfet. I used a mosfet driver and PWM. For launch, the PWM was as close to 100% as we could get. A more reasonable drive used a 12V treadmill motor and only 4 mosfets in parallel. I do not have the specifications for that motor. I believe it was rated at least 2 HP. The tabs were soldered to copper buss (0.025 thick) in the former and to 4 oz copper pcb in the latter, which were attached to an aluminum heat sinks. I have used it for the past 15 years, but have not built any controllers of similar power since.
Here is a picture of the latter control:
View attachment 96081
As I pointed out above, soldering the tabs is not so much for electrical reasons as it is for heat dissipation. Of course, both machines were intermittent duty only. The winch was considerably less on time than the second device.
I have not done any calculations for what Gary350 is planning. For one, I have given and can give additional links for him to do that, should he desire. Second, I don't think any of us know what he is planning to do. The schematic he provided allows a max of 12 mA. That is a whole different story than the 35 A being discussed in the other thread.
John
PWM is Pulse Width Modulation. The Output Continuously Switches ON and OFF at a Specific Frequency.
Simple Method is just using a 555 to drive the Mosfets.
This is Just an Example:
The pictures I posted were for a speed control for a heavy duty Ford 6V starter (without a limiting coil, model 3110) run at 12 volts and used as a high-speed winch for launching model sailplanes. Exact current draws are not available. Most users report at least 225A. Some users estimate it as high as 5 HP (about 300A). I used 5 IR power mosfets in TO-220 packages in parallel, and we could stall the motor without popping a mosfet. I used a mosfet driver and PWM. For launch, the PWM was as close to 100% as we could get. A more reasonable drive used a 12V treadmill motor and only 4 mosfets in parallel. I do not have the specifications for that motor. I believe it was rated at least 2 HP. The tabs were soldered to copper buss (0.025 thick) in the former and to 4 oz copper pcb in the latter, which were attached to an aluminum heat sinks. I have used it for the past 15 years, but have not built any controllers of similar power since.
Here is a picture of the latter control:
View attachment 96081
As I pointed out above, soldering the tabs is not so much for electrical reasons as it is for heat dissipation. Of course, both machines were intermittent duty only. The winch was considerably less on time than the second device.
I have not done any calculations for what Gary350 is planning. For one, I have given and can give additional links for him to do that, should he desire. Second, I don't think any of us know what he is planning to do. The schematic he provided allows a max of 12 mA. That is a whole different story than the 35 A being discussed in the other thread.
John
I figured I would need a 1 ohm resistor in series with pin 3 I already have coffee can of them, 50 watts 1 ohm with heat sink mounts.
What is the capacitor across pin 2 and pin 3? What is that for?
The datasheets I looked at, one said 28 amps continuous, another said 30 amps, another said 39. My DC amp meter shows they work at 37 amps but they are about 130 degrees after 1 min 45 seconds that is when I turn it off. I'm not sure what continuous current will be just have to test them and see how fast they warm up.
There is a problem with that. I have worked with 555 times for 45 years. You can change the pulse width to anything you like from about 10% to 90%. Assume you have it set for 50% it is always 50% no matter what frequency you adjust it for. If the mosfet is on 50% at 60 Hz or 50% at 10KHz that is the same ON time 50%. Only thing that is changing is the Hz. If you have adjustable 555 pulse width that is totally different, I have never made 555 adjustable pulse width I need to check my book to see if that can be adjustable.
I have an old 1970 TTL Cookbook. I recently bought the newest version of the TTL Cookbook and it has new information the old book does not have like adjustable Duty Cycle. The new book only shows 50% to 99.9% duty cycle but I can see it can be 5% to 50% or 5% to 99% duty cycle with a duel variable resistor. 555 is very unstable with temperature changes. I can see a new experiment very soon.
He "thinks" it is for a toy motor and he has "changed" it. Neither comment tells me that he recognizes the problem with the 1K resistor. He has yet to post his circuit. Why not?I found this circuit online I think it is for a toy motor. Like I said already I changed this circuit this was the basic circuit I started with. This [sic, that?] was the original idea for the fork lift motor speed control.
. Please show your calculations. BTW, the second drive was for considerably less power than the first -- only about 2 HP.How can a PC board handle 225 amps, seems like the copper would burn off of the epoxy board. I have seen PC boards burn with less amps than that.
Regarding the 1K resistor, here is what Gary350 posted in response to a request for HIS schematic:
He "thinks" it is for a toy motor and he has "changed" it. Neither comment tells me that he recognizes the problem with the 1K resistor. He has yet to post his circuit. Why not?
On the matter of a gate resistor, there used to be an excellent exprimental piece by Fairchild that is no longer on its site. I have uploaded it here (AB-9). This current application note from Fairchild incorporates much of that information: https://www.fairchildsemi.com/application-notes/AN/AN-9005.pdf If one compares Fairchild's advice with IR's numerous notes on gate drives, you will find that both recommend a gate resistor to address ringing when using a good, low impedance driver for power mosfets. IR tends to recommend a slightly higher value resistor than Fairchild recommends. When using paralleled mosfets, remember that the gate resistors are effectively in parallel when viewed from the driver. The resistors shown in the most recent image are 15 Ω -- the first band is brown. I have a problem with brown and violet, which makes a bigger difference.
Regarding soldering the tab, that was common practice when I was designing those drives (last 1990's). While most us assume the die is attached to each pin with internal wires, that may not always be the case. In this note from IXYS (https://www.ixys.com/Documents/AppNotes/IXAN0061.pdf ) discussing temperature gradients across the die suggests that the electrical connection to the drain may be different than to the source:
View attachment 96095
In the first design, I used copper bus bars as mentioned and those bars were attached directly to the heat sink with a thermally conductive, electrically insulative, hardening material from Loctite. I took advantage of the fact that the intact surface of anodized aluminum is an insulator. Heat was not a problem, so in the second design, I used heavy copper traces. Heat has not been a problem either. I understand your concern, Gary, about heat transfer: . Please show your calculations. BTW, the second drive was for considerably less power than the first -- only about 2 HP.
In any event, it seems most of the banter in this thread is about opinions. I have documented my opinions with reference citations and working models. If we are to move ahead, I hope others will meet similar standards of scientific discourse. Most important, Gary350 needs to post his schematic and describe what he is trying to do. There is a huge difference in controlling a tiny motor drawing less than 12 mA and one drawing 35 A or more. Do we know whether Gary's motor is brushless, PM, shunt or series wound? If he is interested in fork-lift motors, I highly recommend that he review 4QD's site (https://www.4qdtec.com/pwm-01.html ).
John
Regarding the 1K resistor, here is what Gary350 posted in response to a request for HIS schematic:
He "thinks" it is for a toy motor and he has "changed" it. Neither comment tells me that he recognizes the problem with the 1K resistor. He has yet to post his circuit. Why not?
On the matter of a gate resistor, there used to be an excellent exprimental piece by Fairchild that is no longer on its site. I have uploaded it here (AB-9). This current application note from Fairchild incorporates much of that information: https://www.fairchildsemi.com/application-notes/AN/AN-9005.pdf If one compares Fairchild's advice with IR's numerous notes on gate drives, you will find that both recommend a gate resistor to address ringing when using a good, low impedance driver for power mosfets. IR tends to recommend a slightly higher value resistor than Fairchild recommends. When using paralleled mosfets, remember that the gate resistors are effectively in parallel when viewed from the driver. The resistors shown in the most recent image are 15 Ω -- the first band is brown. I have a problem with brown and violet, which makes a bigger difference.
Regarding soldering the tab, that was common practice when I was designing those drives (last 1990's). While most us assume the die is attached to each pin with internal wires, that may not always be the case. In this note from IXYS (https://www.ixys.com/Documents/AppNotes/IXAN0061.pdf ) discussing temperature gradients across the die suggests that the electrical connection to the drain may be different than to the source:
View attachment 96095
In the first design, I used copper bus bars as mentioned and those bars were attached directly to the heat sink with a thermally conductive, electrically insulative, hardening material from Loctite. I took advantage of the fact that the intact surface of anodized aluminum is an insulator. Heat was not a problem, so in the second design, I used heavy copper traces. Heat has not been a problem either. I understand your concern, Gary, about heat transfer: . Please show your calculations. BTW, the second drive was for considerably less power than the first -- only about 2 HP.
In any event, it seems most of the banter in this thread is about opinions. I have documented my opinions with reference citations and working models. If we are to move ahead, I hope others will meet similar standards of scientific discourse. Most important, Gary350 needs to post his schematic and describe what he is trying to do. There is a huge difference in controlling a tiny motor drawing less than 12 mA and one drawing 35 A or more. Do we know whether Gary's motor is brushless, PM, shunt or series wound? If he is interested in fork-lift motors, I highly recommend that he review 4QD's site (https://www.4qdtec.com/pwm-01.html ).
John
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?
We use cookies and similar technologies for the following purposes:
Do you accept cookies and these technologies?