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Garage Door Hacker

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You do realize that this thread is from July 2005!!
 
Helder Ferreira said:
Hi,
If you play with the key, without being near the receiver, you also risk being lockek out as well, sinse the receiver will not recognize your key because it can only calculate the the "rolled" key a few keys away from the last one.
Interesting -are the rolling codes used in cars different? I have a car key and a spare .When I use the spare after 12 months or so it still opens the car -different gear?
 
The receiver calculates and waits for the next code for each key. If you store one key, there should be no problem exept, maybe (I'm not sure) if the battery runs down. You can read all about rolling codes at www.microchip.com . They call it KEELOQ
 
If you have a Sears Home Central depot where you live, you give them the model number and problem details ( or go online to Sears' website) to assist you in troubleshooting. If no manual is available, Sears can re-direct you to the manufacturer of the opener. I don't suggest playing around with this device, as household AC voltages can be nasty and unforgiving.
 
Okay, so here's what's on openers where I live:
Multi-Code, 300MHz, 10-switch, binary
Linear Delta3, 310MHz, 8-switch, binary
Linear MegaCode, 318MHz, factory programmed code
Overhead Door, 312-320-340-360-380-390MHz, 9-switch, trinary
Overhead Door/Genie IntelliCode 315/390MHz, rolling code
Genie 390MHz, 9-switch or 12-switch binary
Wayne-Dalton, 303MHz, unknown coding
Stanley, 310MHz, 10-switch, binary
Stanley SecureCode, 310MHz, Keeloq rolling code
Allister/Pulsar/Allstar, 288MHz/318MHz, 8-switch/9-switch, binary/trinary
Chamberlain/LiftMaster/SearsCraftsman 390MHz, 9-Switch, trinary
Chamberlain/LM/Sears, 390MHz, factory programmed fixed code
Chamberlain/LM/Sears, 390MHz, rolling code
Chamberlain/LM/Sears, 315MHz, ERT rolling code
Sentex, 295MHz/303MHz, factory programmed code
DoorKing, 318MHz, factory programmed code

So is there a way to incorporate most or all of these into some type of universal code scanner that would either automatically cycle thru the remotes or have a rotary knob to cycle thru the remotes manually? I'd really like to build something like this. I work security at night, so when I get home I have plenty of undisturbed time to toil and tinker.
 
Found many flaws in trying to build a garage door hacker. Although very possible to build it would take hours for the device to go through all code and frequency combinations due to the pause needed bewteen signals while transponding.

The neighbors beer fridge stays safe for another day.
 
hahaha

well, you are right Greendean, it would take a couple of days to cycle thru all the possible frequencies, code formats, and codes.

These days, you can pretty much determine off the bat it'll either be Chamberlain or Genie, most of those either Security+ or Intellicode, but there are still a few times with you'd hit an old system with a D3 or MultiCode, but those aren't hard to pop with a scanner. D3's are max of 256 combinations (I think) and Multi's only have 1024. Even when you get in to trinary systems like older Overhead Door, Chamberlain, and Allister systems used, you're still only looking at a handful of combinations compared to the newer systems.

So I figure have one selector for frequency, one for format, a power switch, a start button, pause button, step back, step forward, and a send button to keep sending the same code you are already on. Now to really get fancy, you could always add on a display to show some type to recall code, and a numeric entry pad to quickly punch in a frequently used code, ie: to give the neighbors a heart attack by shutting the garage door on the roof of the new car every time he comes home, or make them think they have an issue with the safety sensors.

I'm not into this for criminal purposes... more to just be a pain in the ass when the guy across the street decides to be a prick. :D:D:D
 
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