Glcds with Pic 18F Assembler

[richard.c]

Hi,

Thought my little project might be of interest.

Full plans and code attached.

 

[ericgibbs]

hi Richard,
Nice looking graphics.

I see you have given the RS product code, do you have a generic name for this GLCD, ie manufacturer etc.

 

[Space Varmint]

Very nice! On the .1" , is that PDIP?

 

[Mike - K8LH]

Richard,

Very nice display and implementation Sir.

Mike

 

[Space Varmint]

Richard,

Very nice display and implementation Sir.

Mike

Are you an OM or did you pick up a silent key? WA4BJO

 

[ericgibbs]

hi,
In case you are interested, the GLCD is here:

https://uk.rs-online.com/web/search...=searchProducts&searchTerm=627-1848&x=19&y=11

 

[Mike - K8LH]

Are you an OM or did you pick up a silent key? WA4BJO

I picked K8LH from the list of available calls in February '99.

 

[richard.c]

Hi,

Hope its of use to assembler users - there seems to have been very few modern displays around at a sensible price.

The prices of these units mean they are almost as cheap as 2x16 or 4x16 lcd , but offer so much more, and only take up 4 i/o lines.

Unfortunately, according to a friend in Canada, neither unit is available in North America, but otherwise the RS units seem to be worldwide.

I've listed all the datasheet links in the .pdf , the Displaytech ltd. site had little of use, that I could find

Very nice! On the .1" , is that PDIP?

For the Dog units, a 40 way Turned Pin socket cut in half and spaced at 1.8" does the job - nice and easy !

One little note - the Dog displays and back light are supplied as separate units, which are easily soldered together - but once done its not practicable to split them again, so make sure you have removed all of the protective films from both units !


Richard

 

[Space Varmint]

I picked K8LH from the list of available calls in February '99.

OK FB! Looks like I'm the OM around here...lol.

And FB (Fine Business) Richard. Not sure I am familiar with that pin configuration but have done enough SM for it not to make a difference. The back-lights usually come separate with 7 seg. transflective types. Who did the dinosaur? Nice art work!

 

[richard.c]

Hi,

A couple of footnotes on the glcd project:-

The EA DogL glcds do have touch screen stick-ons available at a reasonable price.
There are two types - an analogue that requires its own controller and the simpler 'digital switch' resistive type in a 5x3 matrix.
I chose the latter as it connects directly to the Pic ports with just a pull up.
When ordering, the little FPC type smd connector needs to be specified separately. Although smd, its pins are just over 1mm apart and are hand solderable with care.

The attached pics show my initial crude test display with the touch screen.
It really does open up a another dimension ....


The second point regarding supply of the EA DOG glcds, not every country has a distributor, and not all distributors will supply one offs to the diyers.
When I visited MMe in the UK to collect the touch screen, Marc, the owner, advised that he already does supply large and small one off orders around the world to private users; - contact links in the earlier pdf.

enjoy,


Richard

 

[Space Varmint]

....and the simpler 'digital switch' resistive type in a 5x3 matrix.

You are saying it has it's own controller?

also it has touch screen sensors?

At what cost?

 

[richard.c]

Hi,

The touch screen I have shown and used is what EA call a Digital Resistive type, which has a 5x3 switch matrix.

This type does not have or need a controller of any sort, you just connect it to your micros input port with a pullup resistor like any conventional switch.

You can connect it as a full 5x3 switch matrix, but I do not need so many, in my test picture, I just use three of the bottom row connected to the micro with the bottom common rail to 0v. (my screen graphics switch boxes are really too big - it was just an image I had to hand for my first test )

You can measure the 'switch' resistance with a meter , its about 1k on and over 20meg off. - you could easily use it on things other than the glcds.

The price in here is GB £8.50 plus taxes etc. + the little cable connector which is a must.

There is another type of screen usually refered to as an Analogue Resistive, that does require a separate controller and allows you do much more, like direct touch entry graphics etc.

hth

Richard

 

[Space Varmint]

Hi,

The touch screen I have shown and used is what EA call a Digital Resistive type, which has a 5x3 switch matrix.

This type does not have or need a controller of any sort, you just connect it to your micros input port with a pullup resistor like any conventional switch.

You can connect it as a full 5x3 switch matrix, but I do not need so many, in my test picture, I just use three of the bottom row connected to the micro with the bottom common rail to 0v. (my screen graphics switch boxes are really too big - it was just an image I had to hand for my first test )

You can measure the 'switch' resistance with a meter , its about 1k on and over 20meg off. - you could easily use it on things other than the glcds.

The price in here is GB £8.50 plus taxes etc. + the little cable connector which is a must.

There is another type of screen usually refered to as an Analogue Resistive, that does require a separate controller and allows you do much more, like direct touch entry graphics etc.

hth

Richard

That is incredible! Just incredible! Even the price. That settles it. I have to pick up a few of these. So I can follow your link to locate it? I want the one you are talking about with the touch feature and built in controller. Will it be hard to select the proper part number? This would be perfect for a radio I intend to build. A nice bell & whistle

 

[richard.c]

Quote:
Originally Posted by Space Varmint View Post
That is incredible! Just incredible! Even the price. That settles it. I have to pick up a few of these. So I can follow your link to locate it? I want the one you are talking about with the touch feature and built in controller. Will it be hard to select the proper part number? This would be perfect for a radio I intend to build. A nice bell & whistle


Hi,

Not sure if you are refering to just the touch screen or the whole glcd and backlight - when you say you want one ?

The touch screen, EA Touch 5x3-A , - as shown in the latest pic was £8.50. It does not have, nor does it need a controller -it just feeds into any micro port like a normal signal switch .

The Blue GLCD DOGL is approx £14, one off, and the matching White Backlight DogL are about £13, one off, +taxes etc.

As you can see from the MMSe web page there are varoius combinations of colours - some of the other colour backlights are much cheaper.

Give Marc at MMSe an Email for details of what you want -sure he will help.
If you are in the UK then the post charges will hopefully be small - I was lucky in being close enough to pick up in person.

hth

Richard

 

[Space Varmint]

Once again, really nice work! Thanks for passing it along. I don't think I see that Email you are talking about. Mind giving it one more time? I will have to figure out the prices and so forth for what I need. It seems very reasonable and is a far cry better than the 7 segment I was planning to use.

 

[richard.c]

Hi,

Yes, think it will be a total revelation for you compared to the 7 segment -good though they were - about 25 years ago last time I used them on my updated Sinclair Mk14 !!

On these Glcds you can display fonts in many sizes, so your main frequency could be full screen height or just a standard 1/8 th size.


Just go to Marc's 'Contact Us' page
https://www.mmselectronics.co.uk/lcdgraphicdog.htm

or sales@mmselectronics.co.uk

When looking at the 'DOG' page, there is a demo program you can download, that shows the various displays and backlights, and it lets you mix and match to create exactly what you need - very handy and infomative.


The RS black and white unit is also good, and very cheap, but no matching touch screen for it, and being a bit wider than the DogL unit, a Dog touch screen does not fit properly.

Richard

 

[tunedwolf]

Cheers for the hard work Richard !!

rgds

 

[Space Varmint]

Cheers for the hard work Richard !!

rgds

Yeah, he has done some great work here! I'm still not sure about the connector?

 

[richard.c]

Hi Tuned Wolf and Space Varmit -

Thanks for those kind words - much apprieciated.

SV - assume you are unsure about soldering that 10 way smd connector for the touch screen ?

I know what you mean, I'm not into smd either - but I did find it fairly easy to do.
The cable can be removed from the connector when ever you want - its not a one time connection.

I did it my very simple means - just make a little pcb like the one shown with a more suitable .1" connector on it.
I use a small Antex CS 18 W iron with thier smallest pointed bit.

Just tin the pcb as normal, then use some solder wick to remove virtually all of it from the smd pads, so its a flat matt look to it.
Position the connector over the pads, there a two outer mounting lugs on it which you solder first to hold it firmly in place.
Then put you bit and solder on the track several mm away from the pin, the molten solder will then virtually run up the tinned track and do the job for you.
Any errors, just remove the solder with the wick and go again.

hth

Richard

 

[Space Varmint]

Hi Tuned Wolf and Space Varmit -

Thanks for those kind words - much apprieciated.

SV - assume you are unsure about soldering that 10 way smd connector for the touch screen ?

I know what you mean, I'm not into smd either - but I did find it fairly easy to do.
The cable can be removed from the connector when ever you want - its not a one time connection.

I did it my very simple means - just make a little pcb like the one shown with a more suitable .1" connector on it.
I use a small Antex CS 18 W iron with thier smallest pointed bit.

Just tin the pcb as normal, then use some solder wick to remove virtually all of it from the smd pads, so its a flat matt look to it.
Position the connector over the pads, there a two outer mounting lugs on it which you solder first to hold it firmly in place.
Then put you bit and solder on the track several mm away from the pin, the molten solder will then virtually run up the tinned track and do the job for you.
Any errors, just remove the solder with the wick and go again.

hth

Richard

OK maybe wasn't clear. What does the connector look like for just the display? Is it DIP or what?