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help design ceilng fan control

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greghl

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I am mostly new at electronics. The project which I want to create is a RF control for an overhead ceiling fan. The fan comes with a RF remote control. On the controler are several functions: temp select, time delay, light on/off, light dim, fan speed change/off.

The only things I want for this controller are : Light on/off, Fan speed change/off, and 3 status LEDs for the fan speed : low, med, high, off.

I think I only need 7 I/O pins. inputs will be two buttons; lights and fans. outputs will be : RF signal for light, RF signal for Fan, and LED 1, 2 and 3.

I think I need to use a micro-controller that can take at least 7 I/O pins and i can program with a counter to control the LEDS.

the logic I am thinking is:
- Light button is pushed, energize light on/off command on the RF side of circuit
The light is on
- -Light button is pushed, energize light on/off command on the RF side of circuit
The light is off
- Fan button is pushed, increase variable to 1. send change speed on RF side of circuit
The fan is on low speed.
-fan button is pushed, increase variable to 2. send change speed on RF side of circuit
The fan is on med speed
- The fan button is pushed, increase variable to 3. send change speed on RF side of circuit
the fan is on high speed
-The fan button is pushed, increase variable to 4. If variable is is > 3 set to 0. send change m speed on RF side of circuit
The Fan is off
If variable is = 1. energize LED 1
If variable is =2. energize LED 2
if variable is = 3 Energize LED 3
If variable is =0 de-energize all LEDs.



I am hoping this is making sense. Where I am getting lost is with the RF side of things. How to learn the commands from the OEM remote and duplicate them on the circuit board. If someone could point me in the right direction i would be much appreciative.
 
If I understand you correctly the only difference between what you already have and what you want is 3 status LEDs? Seems a complicated way of getting those :). Can't you tell just by looking/listening which speed the fan is running at?
As an alternative (possibly simpler) could you tap into the fan wiring to get an rpm indication?
 
@ alec_t I have the one OEM remote. The problem is that the fan is designed with a remote module similar to what Keepitsimplestupid posted. For the remote to work i need to always have the switch feeding the light one so that the remote module always has 120VAC on and the remote module does the switching for me. The problem arises where we keep the remote by our bed. The manufacturer has a little cradle you can screw to the wall and hang the remote on the wall. The remote is an ugly bone/almond colour and doesn't look very nice. With the remote i want to build i want it to fit in a standard single gang blank coverplate and fit it in the switch box. So i will have the light and fan control when entering and leaving the room and i can use the remote by the bed or to use the dimming or time delay features.
 
@ Keepitsimplestupid The fan that i purchased already has a module similar to the product in your link. The OEM components there is only one remote. I would like to create a wall mounted control for entering and leaving the room.
 
That control is quite unique and, I believe, you can accomplish what you want. Expensive, but possible.

I to wanted the same thing and I bought two of another type of remote control hoping that they would work. With one mounted on the wall and one on the bedside. Nope, they got confused. That remote had a timer and temperature control as well.

I have an yet to install Insteon system. It's more complicated than you might think. You also require a computer to power line Insteon interface to do the programming. I want to control a driveway light from my phone and an RF remote that's in the car. Eventually, I want to add some other, non-existant things such as hot water recirculating: phone, motion detector in bathroom; RF at kitchen sink and I want text messages from a PERS (Personal Emergency Response) alarm system.

So, for one device you need:
1. power line to computer interface (I don't think you need it, but I do)
2. A wall switch (multiple ones are available depending on the number of buttons)
3. A wall switch plate (Separate)
4. A module if not integrated into the switch.
5. The setup program - free
6. The fanlinc module
7. The bedside module; see http://www.insteon.net/handheld-remotes.html

For the bedside remote, you would need something like this: **broken link removed**

Take a look here: http://www.insteon.net/

I think I'm wrong about Insteon. UPB requires the PC program UPBSTART: http://www.simply-automated.com/products/SA_UPStart.php
 
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If anyone knows a way to do this that would be awesome or if someone has some good resources on beginer RF control that would be ideal. I think in the mean time i will jusst disable the light on/off feature on the remote and use the wall switch. I have a 3-wire going from the switch to the fan so i will use one 120 V leg to power the module and the other leg will be switched that I will splice into the lighting sockets. A little bit magyver. The bulbs are a GU10 so they are a 120V bulb, should have no problems.
 
You could start with some pre-certified RF modules such as here: https://www.lemosint.com/index.php There is a band reserved for garage door openers that is essentially unlicensed. The RF transmission will likely be only one way.

RF might have some trouble getting out of the fixture. Zigbee would probably be a good choice.

You also might find some RF remote transmitters and receivers that might provide on/off or momentary pulses out.

Ceiling fans generally fall into the following wiring schemes. https://www.hurontel.on.ca/~taitg/pages/cfan.html Switching the capacitors is a common way to change the speed. Continually variable speed has been hard to achieve.

You might have to purchase a fan control like from Lowes just to get the case that's installed in the fan.

Next, you need to be able to do triac speed control on a lamp and you may have to make sure it works with CFL's. This means that you have to use "motor control" techniques instead of just finding a zero crossing and firing the triac and then waiting for it to turn off. The motor control way has to detect a voltage zero crossing and keep firing for a full period. With motors and CFL power supplies, the voltage zero crossing may not be same as the current zero crossing.
 
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