@nigel you saved the poor amplifier long before it gets finished! i'll try to remember the speakers!
so as far as i understand i don't need any load resistors to the power supply... but i'm having a bit difficulty to calculate the exact voltage under load... i hope i'm not exceeding the 300VDC.
how can i calculate what i'm giving to the amp with 220VAC/250mA power supply... looks to me it's ~300VDC
A gramophone was an old record player?
I still have a very good one. It sounds great through my solid-state powerful very low distortion amplifiers. I haven't used it for about 20 years.
Your amplifier won't work with a gramophone as its input. The gramophone needs a preamp circuit.
I even still have a good quality cassette recorder/player. Remember them? I haven't used mine for about 15 years.
I play FM radio, CDs and MP3s. I have thousands of MP3s because my son bought a laptop computer from a disc jockey.
@Audioguru my comment was about if you hate oldies in general... tubes are interesting!
as well as many things that left behind due to modern replacements which are also interesting
and sometimes awesome.
A gramophone was an old record player?
I still have a very good one. It sounds great through my solid-state powerful very low distortion amplifiers. I haven't used it for about 20 years.
Your amplifier won't work with a gramophone as its input. The gramophone needs a preamp circuit.
I even still have a good quality cassette recorder/player. Remember them? I haven't used mine for about 15 years.
I play FM radio, CDs and MP3s. I have thousands of MP3s because my son bought a laptop computer from a disc jockey.
There's no enough information to answer - initially the voltage depends on the exact AC voltage supplied under load, and also off load before the valve warm up.
However, I would'nt use 300V electrolytics on a nominal 220V supply - as a crude rule of thumb, multiply by 1.5V - giving 330V or so.
There's no enough information to answer - initially the voltage depends on the exact AC voltage supplied under load, and also off load before the valve warm up.
However, I would'nt use 300V electrolytics on a nominal 220V supply - as a crude rule of thumb, multiply by 1.5V - giving 330V or so.
well...maybe i could a little better because i think it wasn't very good idea
having the tubes kinda near to the transformers, though if i have problems i
think i can easily isolate them and still look nice because i'm going to cover all the upper part with a **broken link removed** painted black so the only thing you can see is the light comming from the tubes and not the isolation of the transformers!
@nigel about the 6.3V of the heaters what do you think if i twist the cables and also use 2 resistors 1k as voltage divider and connect the middle to the ground to reduce noise?
I did a simple power supply pcb to rectify the 220VAC of the transformer (which apparently gives 230VAC and not 220VAC as it says ) and i'm facing a problem!!! it keeps blowing the fuse to the primary!
the transformer is fine! the circuit is so simple and everything looks fine to me, just a rectification and 3 capacitors and i don't get what's wrong, i haven't placed any load to the output....
ok the problem solved... i had a rectification bridge schematic near me so i can see the orientation of the diodes to avoid any mistake...but guess what!!!? the schematic had the bridge WRONG!
ok here's the schematic caused the problem and here's the power supply pcb i designed...
it's the first time i did my own pcb design and i felt a bit unsafe with high voltage that's why i did so big rails with so much space between them..probably it's good for 10A or more!
the wires are from teflon...because last time the wire where green cable is
was touching the nearby diode and almost got burned.