Help with Water Pump

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I soldered the 100un cap back to the 5V line and with DMM set at 200ACV (the smallest AC setting), I got 0.1. It did not matter if the pump was running on hi or lo, I got 0.1

Full speed is one of the settings, and that will be used for wave but a sort of rolling wave is another setting that I think would be outstanding for tide.
I like that setup a lot-a whole lot! I could wire six GFI receptacles in parallel and have lots of redundancy. We’d have to feed our controllers with a separate signal ground and 24V to get down to 12V, then provide a power ground for each PDM-is that right?
 
With a PWM signal on the 5V line I would have expected a higher reading than 0.1, even on the 200AC range. So that low reading reinforces the earlier indication that there is just a DC level on that line. Can't be certain. Interesting, though. Pity we can't check on a scope, or at least get hold of a pinout of the micro IC.
However, the nature of the signal won't matter if we let the new OEM controller do its thing and operate the pump.
One tidal controller presumably will still be doing the timing for 4 pumps? If so, the grounds of the 4 OEM 24V supplies will need to be commoned with the PDM PowerGnd lines as a power ground, and an arbitrary one of those supplies would power the tide controller.
 
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Here's how I see it:

I suggest you initially assemble just the units in the dotted box, using your beat-up PDM and shiny new 2.5A power supply, and check nothing in the PDM gets too hot. I'm expecting Rsense to get warmer than it did for the old pump, likewise the FET. Measure the voltage across Rsense for hi and lo settings of the OEM control.
 

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Combining their controller with ours is a clever and cool way to drive this pump. The redundancy from six separate power supplies is another layer of safety. There are some nice features on the OEM controller I can take advantage of. What their controller lacks, ours has-multiple pump synchronization and safety features. Pump synchronization really is a force multiplier for shifting water. I love it! Thank you!
I have quite the honeydo list to knock out today, I’m gonna try real hard to get this wired up by tomorrow evening after work. I’ll start off with the OEM controller in lo and babysit it for awhile.
Fingers crossed, thanks a million.
 
Presumably we'll be seeing the old pumps for sale on fleabay? Or are you keeping those as backups?

Edit:
BTW, looking again at the pics of the new controller board it seems pin 11 of the IC puts out a (pulsed, PWM?) voltage which is smoothed by R11 and the electrolytic cap (C8?) just above the yellow wire to provide a DC voltage VA for the yellow wire, consistent with your measurements.
 
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Two of the old pumps will be used for the filter with your speed control. Back to the original plan for the filter pumps, ha ha. I'll probably keep them for backups, especially since I've stripped parts from old pump's crappy controller.
 
It will be interesting to see if the 'flick' works with the new setup. Depends on how long the OEM controller IC takes to initialise on power-up. May have to tweak the tide controller slightly (change an R or a C) in that area.

Edit: Nice find, KISS
 
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@alec
Thanks

@Joe
Chinese skills at work

@all
This talk gave me an idea. I just tried searching for this: "STC12C5201AD 数据表" and it worked very well. "数据表" is datasheet in Chinese by Google Translate.
 
I really must get round to learning Chinese (the way the world is going it will probably be the ONLY living language in a few decades time)
 
I talked my betterr half into letting me goof with the pumps for a little bit.
Major score! This is a sweet running system. It's been toggling on tide for the last 10 minutes and nothing is even remotely warm, not even the power supply.! That's with the OEM controller in the low setting. After a little while, I'll set it at high and watch it like a hawk for awhile.

On low, I got 0.10-0.11V across Rsense. On high I got 0.30-0.31V.

As soon as I get another pump, we'll see about the flick. What a stroke of genius to blend the controllers! Thank you Alec. Thanks all.

I better get to work or I'll be in some deep trouble.

Edit-The new setup has been running on high for 45 minutes and the only warmth is a little at the power supply and D2 is warm. I don't think it's hot enough to need a heat sink.
I did notice a slight delay when the pump starts back up, less than 1/2 sec. The OEM controller's light blinks to "sensor" then back to high. Like you said Alec, we'll see what that does to the flick. Also have to see how wave function is affected. It is looking good.
 
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Sounds very promising. Those figures indicate the new pump draws ~1.4A on hi. Compare that with ~1.1A for the old pump and you can see why you shift more water! So Rsense and the FET can stay as is. You can improvise a bit of a heatsink for D2 if you like, but if you can keep your finger on it for 10 sec then it isn't too hot and doesn't need one.
As soon as I get another pump, we'll see about the flick
Click to expand...
You can check that with just one pump.
I better get to work or I'll be in some deep trouble.
Click to expand...
I can relate to that. Go buy a bunch of flowers
 
@joe
So your working on St. Patrick's Day? Aren't you supposed to be enjoying a green beer or something?

@alec
Chinglinsh is a bit hard to read. From the datasheet on PDF page 50.

2.3 RESET Sources
In STC12C5201AD, there are 5 sources to generate internal reset. They are RST pin reset, external
low-voltage detection (P1.2/RST2, the secondary reset function pin RST2 reset), software reset,
On-chip power-on-reset
(if delay 200mS after power-on reset, the reset mode is On-chip MAX810 POR timing delay which actully add
200mS delay after power-on reset)

and Watch-Dog-Timer reset.

----

What did they just say? Is that 200 ms + watchdog or (200+200) ms+ watchdog? or something else.
 
What was I thinking? I switched the SPDT that I use on Vt for bench testing and the flick works just right. I feel like I ran into a winning streak.
These new pumps are pushing out well over twice the water as the old ones. When I ran them side by side, my eyes about popped out of my head. Even at 30% more wattage, they are more efficient. The old pumps have a three bladed prop like a boat and the new pumps have a two bladed prop more like an airplane.

D2 is barely warm, this latest PDM is rock solid. I need to make another pair of PDMs for old the pumps that will drive the filter.

If I get the house squared away, I can probably get away without flowers. Back at it. Thanks.
 
Hey,

My english is not my best side, I searched ebay for delay repeat timers this one is within my budget. I'm no electrician just want to assemble system with water pump that can work in repeat cycles 1 min on 3 min off. You say that this relay appears to be a multi-voltage input relay can you clarify cause I'm ashamed but I don't understand, does this mean that yes this relay will repeat cycles ?

I searched google and this forum was the only one that had a real person saying something about it, looked around and saw that this is really nice forum so I decided to ask.

Meanwhile I found similar same name item on ebay but in white color and person says that this relay can repeat just that off cycle needs to be longer than on cycle and that this relay is not absolutely precise and need calibration for better accuracy.

So once again from diagram can this relay repeat or not. I don't have a clue just hopes cause of price.
 
According to this web site YES

http://www.timer-relay.com/automation/atdv-y-twin-time-relay.html
 
The timing diagram says it's a repeat cycle. The description says "ON delay". I'd tend to go with the timing diagram.

Multivoltage means that it works from 24 VAC to 240 VAC and 24 VDC for power.
The specs fail to mention the contact rating. AC/DC or current.
The specs also mentions 50 Hz. It's highly likely that it will work on 60 Hz, but the timing COULD be off (Run 60/50)*Faster.

You failed to mention what voltage and current your pumps are and even if they are aquarium pumps. What is the power your trying to switch and what is the power that you intend to apply to this relay?

You will still have to place it in a case, add a power cord, fuse, possibly a switched AC outlet. The assumption is that you would be switching AC power to your pump or pump controller and you still have to wire it correctly.

You will probably also need an Octal relay socket such as this one: **broken link removed**
 
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