Hoover Vacuum Cleaner

Les Jones said:

Here is a WILD GUESS. I found some pictures of the H500 and it looks like you gan plug ahoe into it
I think there MIGHT be a magnet on the connector on the end of the hose If this is the case then the switch works the opposite way to the way you are assuming. When the reed switch is closed it would inhibit the brush motor.

Les.

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That's an interesting suggestion, and sounds pretty plausible.

Makes us all look a bit silly suggesting waving magnets at it, or shorting it out

Hi Les
Forgive me but I had to laugh at your suggestion, I looked in the garden shed for a hoe but only found a rake and a spade , shall I try plugging one of those in to the hoover? I checked the hose but it plugs in far away from the reed switch and no sign of any magnets, but I see where you are coming from. I had a good look around for a magnet, there's even a "secret flap" on the underside of the handle but it only contains a connector!
Steve.

Some photos, the reed switch is at the end of the Philips screwdriver

I think Diver300's suggestion could be correct in post #7. Seeing the position of the reed switch I would expect a magnet on the lower cover on the bottom of the upright part of the cleaner. I expect the distance between the magnet and the reed switchto change as the angle of the upright section with respect to the base changes. Our Dyson DC33 does this by mecanically lifting the brush drive belt off the pulley when it is in the upright position. This will be done to prevent the brush from wearing the carpet under the brush when using the hose.

Les.

Ok thanks Les, I'll try passing a compass near to that area and see if there is any deflection. As I said before I cannot see evidence of a magnet but as you say why have a reed switch and no magnet . It may be incorporated into the plastic body mouldings perhaps? I'll post tomorrow with an update.

Steve.S. said:

Ok thanks Les, I'll try passing a compass near to that area and see if there is any deflection. As I said before I cannot see evidence of a magnet but as you say why have a reed switch and no magnet . It may be incorporated into the plastic body mouldings perhaps? I'll post tomorrow with an update.

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Historically, in all kinds of products, such magnets have a nasty of somehow falling off and disappearing

Likewise in burglar alarms systems, where you have reed switches on doors, and a magnet - the magnets somehow vanish.

You know that the motor wil not run with the switch in it's open state. (I.E No magnet close.) So if you short out the reed switch and it still does not work then the fault must be somewhere else. Did the brush ever work ? If so did it stop working when in the fully upright position ?
Can you confirm that this is a mains powered cleaner? (I suspect that it is as the layout of inductor and two large capacitor look like a common mode filter.) Is the brush motor mains voltage or some lower voltage ? Do the red an black wires from the bottom right of the board connect to the motor ? What does the red wire from the middle left of the PCB connect to ?
Is there another connector to the right of the yellow capacitor hidden where the two red and one black wire cross over ? What are the part numbers of IC1 and Q1 on the PCB ? Can you measure the resistance readings between the 4 connections on the inductor ? This will be 6 readings. (This is to confirm that it is a common mode filter and not a transformer.) Have you tested the fuse on the PCB ? We need enough information to confirm that the fault is caused by th PCB and not something else. From the part number on the board it is available for about £26.03

Les.

Just a few more notes. I think the brush motor runs on unsmothed rectified mains voltage. The relay switches the mains input to the bridge rectifier. (The rectangular component below the two filter chokes at the top ofthe PCB in P1040306.JPG.) The picture of the component side of the PCB that was in post 1 seems to have disapeared.
In post #1 you said that you bypassed the PCB and the motor worked. I suspect that it is a permanent magnet motor as there would be no need for a rectifier if it was a series wound motor. can you confirm what type of motor it is and exactly what you did to bypass the PCB.

Les.

Hi Les,
Been out all day so just checked this thread. Let me try to answer some of your points (as best as I can anyway!) First the history, the next door neighbour gave me this last week as he is moving. It is almost new, just out of guarantee..typical!! it did work, but when brush stopped working, he changed the belt obviously nor realising that there were two motors! hmmm! Now the pcb receives it's power via a micro switch (bottom of pic ...301 to left of tube) this switch is cam operated by the handle being up or down (I forget which way the on/off is set) It is mains powered, the brush motor is 230V dc. In pic ...301 the motor is on the lhs of the pic connected by blue/ red wires. The white sheath brings + and - from mains input and "carpet " switch to the pcb via the "cam micro switch" the other red/blue goes to the reed switch. no hidden connectors, pcb fuse ok To run motor (bypass) connected the two wires from the white sheath (blue wire is to a spade terminal on board) to a light bulb. Also tested motor with car battery ran ok but slow , didn't want to put ac through it. Hope this helps. Where is the board available from ? £26 seems very reasonable.
Regards, Steve.

PS no part number on IC1 (8 Legs). Is Q1 the yellow component? it is 0.22uf K X2 275VAC 40/100/21 EN60384-14 05-10 250VAC. Also in post above, for pic 301, cam switch is to right of tube not left.

Hi Steve, I found the listing for the PCB by entering the part number on the PCB (DEU011-NZL-67A) into search engine (probably Google of duckduckgo) One hit was for a supplier in the UK. I was looking for schematic of the PCB so I did not make note of it. At the moment I don't have access to my PC. Using a tablet I can't find the listing. As I could not find the schematic I started to trace it out. When I found that the motor was powered from rectified mains I was concerned that you may have connected the motor straight to AC mains and damaged it. The next step I would take is to see if you get about 24 volts DC across the relay coil when the conditions are met for the motor to run. You could also check if you have the required 24 volt DC supply . I would guess that you could test for this at the pins of the electrolytic capacitor. Q1 will be the transistor. Be very careful doing this as
I think the 24 volts will be at mains potential. Did you test the fuse on the PCB ?
Les.

Hi again Les,
Thanks for your reply. I did test the pcb fuse , it was ok. I only ran 12v through the motor to test it, (car battery) and used a ordinary mains light bulb which lit up when I bypassed the pcb. I don't really feel competent or confident carrying out the other tests you suggest. I was about to go to an electronics repair guy nearby (Nottingham) but held off that when you mentioned the circuit board you'd found online. It turns out to be Partmaster/Currys , so I've emailed them to make sure it is what it is. ( I don't trust anything to do with Currys) If it is the correct part it'll probably be cheaper than getting the original checked and repaired if necessary. It's a way forward.... perhaps not as satisfying as testing each individual component on the board and replacing one item for 10p!!!.which unfortunately I don't have the skill- set for. Anyway thanks for your help so far. I'll let you know if anything gets resolved.
Steve.

Hi Steve, The company tat listed the PCB was not Curry's. It was one I had seen before when looking for parts for our Dyson vacuum cleaner and our washing machine. Try doing a search for "Hoover vacuum cleaner parts" They will want full details of your vacuum cleaner.
Les.