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Improve this solar controller?

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Thanks! I notice you are using a TIP32c not a TIP30c, are they interchangeable? i only have tip30c handy.

Cheers!

Steve
Exercise for the student: Down load and study both data sheets. What is the difference?
 
Thanks, Mike. I did look at the data sheets and it looks like the tip30c has minus voltages instead of positive on tip32c, but I don't understand how to take account of this in the circuit.

I have built the circuit with the tip30c, but it doesn't work as it should, the tip30c draws a fair current and gets warm below the threshold where it should start to trigger.
Will look into minus v a bit more to see if I can figure it out though.

Cheers

Steve
 
Not getting anywhere. I must have had a duff data sheet with regards to negative voltages. I think the difference is to do with how much drive is needed to turn them on?

I cant find tip32c or tip30c on ltspice, where did you get your tip32c and the lt431 models from?

cheers

steve
 
Try here (Yahoo Groups)

They had some extended libraries that other people have modeled.

Good Hunting.

kv
 
Here... I found this .zip I understand there are 8 to choose from. Not sure how to help you pick which one.

Thats just a test not the actual Model
 

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  • TIP31C_TIP32C_test.zip
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Not sure if these will work or not.
 

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  • TL431.zip
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  • tl431_a.sub
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  • TL431_all_test.asc
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  • tl431.asy
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I am thinking I will buy tip32c and be done with it lol

If I make mikeml revised circuit, I don't want the whole of the battery's current shunted to ground as it will blow the circuit won't it? So I need to get rid of about 5w of power(the solar panels capacity). Am I right at in thinking I need a 40ohm 5w min resister will do ok?

The other. Thing is, can I use same circuit to control a 20w panel? But with a large resister power obviously?

Steve
 
My reading of the two data sheets is that they are interchangeable for this application.

TIP30
TIP32

Are you sure you wired it up right?

pnp.gif
pnps.gif
 
great, got it working, yes i had wired the e and c backwards! works a charm, but gets very hot on the test bench power supply trying to drain far more than it will in practice.

silly newbie question again- rather than let the tip30c take all the heat from the 14ah battery, if i wire it just to the solar panel side of the blocking diode, then only the solar panel's current will be shunted at voltages higher than 14.2v? this is correct isn't it? in practice this will only happen when the battery is full and its a sunny day.

Thanks!

Steve
 
I left out the diode because it is not needed. If a 6cell SLA battery has been sitting unloaded for more than a few hours, its terminal voltage will be <13.6V. If you connect that to the shunt regulator which turns on at 14.2V, then only the four or five hundred uA will leak from the battery. The diode will not have any appreciable effect on the power dissipated in the power transistor.

If your test bench power supply has a current-limit knob, set the max current to ~300mA, set the open-circuit voltage to ~15V, and then hook it to the shunt regulator. The power transistor and its small heatsink should get hot to the touch, but not hot enough to burn your hand. Under this condition, the power transistor would be dissipating P=IE = 0.3*14.2 = 4.2W.

If your bench supply puts out 3A, then the power transistor would be dissipating 42W, and it will brand you...
 
The last time I needed a 12 volt high wattage load (with out being branded) I used a car headlight. (turning signal light if you want a smaller wattage load)
I used a tail light in my tractor battery charger.
42 watts in a transistor...........probably will burn out.
 
Do all panels have the diode inbuilt ?
If not, then the battery drains trough the panel, when the panel is in the shadow.

Doesn't matter if the panel has one built-in or not - you can't leave it out as the dummy load is then draining the battery rather than stopping it overcharging.
 
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