Induction motor that got wet

[Diver300]

I've found a rewinding company nearby, and I might ask them for a quote. I'll see how the drying out goes. If the leakage current stays at 1 mA it's not a problem.

The motor is closely coupled to the hydraulic pump that drives the log splitter. The pump has to be dismantled to get the motor apart. The pump housing is also contains the pipes and it's the support for the motor. With all that, I'm not going to be able to get a new motor on it's own. Unless I were to find a new motor and use the winding assembly, but I think that is a long shot.

This is the log splitter:-
https://www.logsplitter.biz/product...-splitter-xm-580.html?product_id=294673648830

 

[Diver300]

I've found that new motors (and pumps) are available.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/144650547143

https://forest-master.com/2200w-motor-and-pump-assembly/

I can't find the short motor, which is without the drive end plate. That would be all that I would need. However the larger assemblies are probably cheaper than a rewind. The non-drive end plate is cracked so it would be good to change that.

 

[Diver300]

Well the crack in the end plate has been glued and strengthened with a steel plate. Another lug is a bit cracked as well.

2 more hours in the oven didn't make any real difference and the leakage is just under 1 mA, but the log splitter works fine and doesn't trip the RCD. It runs at about 400 W when the motor is running but the control levers are released. It peaks at about 2.4 kW when the ram is deliberately stalled. Both those powers seem about right.

Of course, it hasn't been anywhere even vaguely damp since it was dried out and it may be that the insulation will degrade with time. If so. I'll almost certainly get a new motor.

 

[MaxHeadRoom78]

How did the crack in the end plate occur?
These appear to be TEFC motors, which would be expected for this application.
What adhesive did you use for the crack? Epoxy and fibreglass cloth would be a good seal.

 

[Diver300]

They are TEFC motors

The two end plates are die-cast aluminium are held onto the motor with three long bolts that pull the two end plates together, trapping the motor housing. The motor housing is extruded aluminium, cylindrical on the inside, with cooling fins on the outside. The end plates are machined to fit the flat end and cylindrical inside of the housing. In my photograph you can see the witness marks where the end plate has been pushed into the housing.

The bolts are item 72 on this page:-
https://forest-master.com/fm10-electric-log-splitter-parts/

At the pump end, the casting is very solid, but at the fan end it's quite flimsy, probably less than 3mm thick. There are 3 lugs that stick out of the side of the end plate at the fan end for the long bolts to go through. The tension in the bolts tends to bend the lugs down and crack them away from the end plate.

I used Araldite. I don't know how effective it was.