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Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.
After doing a bit more reading, to find a suitable replacement of this type, it seems you would take the resistance value coupled with the physical size. Still no signs evident to me of initial identification of power rating.
Yes - it's a standard component, so has no need for labelling.
Your remote control doesn't having a label telling you what it is, likewise there's no need for a standard component to - anyone who needs to know, already knows
After doing a bit more reading, to find a suitable replacement of this type, it seems you would take the resistance value coupled with the physical size. Still no signs evident to me of initial identification of power rating.
A person can spend a lifetime devoted to diesel engines and never need to know (until he gets to wondering at home). And yes, for the record, it does matter. Maybe not today, but when I try to repair my old guitar pedal tomorrow; or tweak it.
Yes, VERY, VERY rare - and if they do 'fail', it's normally absolutely obvious and caused by something else making them dissipate far too much (and the PCB would probably be burnt through).
They are wire-wound resistors, wire wound resisitors can get very hot in normal operation.
Their usual failure mode is that they go open circuit.
It is also quite common that the solder joint holding the resistor on the the circut board has degraded due to the heat conducted along the wire from the resistor.
This results in a failure of the joint between the wire from the resistor and the copper track of the circuit board.
Many an item of equipment has been repaired by simply removing the old solder and re-making the joint with new solder.
Well, I got the magnifier out and looked the Instrument Panel Circuit Board over pretty good. All solder joints looked clean and tight enough to give it a try as it was. I then jumpered the light switch harness connector on the appropriate terminals and everything on the IP (minus Speedometer and Odometer), and all other lights in the dash area turned on. I ordered a light switch. I tested the old switch and the Potentiometer which I suspected to be bad, had variable voltage when operated from Min. to Max. dimming. After I get the new switch, I'll see if I can repair the old one for a spare. It is quite delicate, so I didn't want to chance it for the time being.
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