Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.
Welcome to our site! Electro Tech is an online community (with over 170,000 members) who enjoy talking about and building electronic circuits, projects and gadgets. To participate you need to register. Registration is free. Click here to register now.
The LED does not light, nothing happens, and I did check the fuse and all other obvious things. What I need is a schematic so that I can activate and troubleshoot the power supply on the bench out of the TV.
If you can trace back from the 5VSB on the plug to the output of the diode there should be 2 electrolytics 1000 UF @ 10 volts Replace them with 25 or 35 volt caps. Also check for caps pooched up on the top.
Did you check all the electrolytic caps? Get an ESR meter. It will save you time as you'll be able to check all the caps on the board. My board is 200-P00-MLT666A-BH and has two burnt resistors at r47 & r48. Can you tell me the values you have?
I think my problem is different than yours karyoker. I have two blown fuses (R47 & R48) and I know that if I just replace them what ever caused it will possibly do it again or cause damage to other components. I don't have a bunch of test equipment so I was thinking of maybe replacing things that control current such as all the transistors, diodes and any current sensing resistors. The only problem is that I don't think all of the components are marked or the markings aren't legible. Do you have the values of any of these components? What do you think about this approach?
EC10 & EC11 are the caps that everybody was replacing on fixya. They need to be at least 25V. In your case I would replace them also make sure Z10 zener and rectifier diode isnt shorted. Also check R53 & D4. Make sure the fet Q14 and Z1 isnt shorted.
I use 2 6.3 V bulbs for loads on the 5VSB and 5V.
I sure wish I knew what IC1 is. Let me know what happens it will go into a history database.
I looked up the numbers printed on it (.62374) but can't find anything... I think it's some kind of power supply controller but not sure. Have you found out anything about it?
Found some 1000uf 25v caps in my parts bin that I will be using to replace. I checked all electrolytic caps, z10, R53, D4, Q14, Z1, BG1 and they all checked out ok. I went ahead and ordered some (1206) 47Ohm smd resistors from digi key. I got a few just in case I burn those up. I also order some freeze spray in order to maybe help isolate the problem. I'm hoping the problem isn't one of those small ics on the back. I'm keeping my fingers crossed. Pray for me brotha!
replaced the two 47ohm resistors and capacitors but i get no video. power led turns blue for a brief moment then turns back red. still not sure whats going on here. I'm gonna try and recheck some of the surrounding components. I would try and purchase another power supply board if it was easy to find. the board i have is 200-P00-MTL666A-BH and I'm not sure if any other boards are compatible with the FLX-3211B. If anyone knows of any other boards that are compatible with this TV please let me know.
I have the same ps as chriss123, and same symptoms: no led at all. Our power supplies have 7-pin and 10-pin connecters, not the two 10s.
I have 24vdc on pins 4, 5, and 6 of the 7-pin, but 0v on pin 7, which appears to be the STB. Which would account for the no red led. I have 0v on all of the "hot" pins on the 10-pin, the one that feeds the lcd panel.
There is no visible bulging or leakage on any of the caps, and I don't have an ESR meter.
Anyway, karyoker, purpulhaze, any progress to report? Good news on your efforts, I hope?
Actuall Keith here is a better partial schematic of the power supply I have. Ic1 is a MAX5025 and Q14 is STB6NK60. I would replace the filters in the 5VSB.I have found in the Polaroids some of the solder joint have to be redone with flux.
Actuall Keith here is a better partial schematic of the power supply I have. Ic1 is a MAX5025 and Q14 is STB6NK60. I would replace the filters in the 5VSB.I have found in the Polaroids some of the solder joint have to be redone with flux.
Thank you, I've admired your efforts to date - did you ever get yours going?
I don't know why I'm attaching pictures, just seemed like something to do -
I replaced all five caps physically located near the 7-pin connector, to no benefit: will be delighted to replace the filters in the 5vsb next, per your suggestion, just as soon as I muster the courage to ask what filters are.
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.
