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ok spec, now I did this: I made a hybrid from your drawing 2016_12_08_LM723_POWER_SUPPLY_V4_MOD1.png and my idea of using a series voltage regulator with a Darlington TIP120. I also introduced your substitute values for the voltage and current feedback circuit (18k to 47k and 82k to 230k, twice).The C1815 should be OK but not advisable: the CEo is only 50V compared to 65V for the BC546.
The function of the BC546 is only voltage level shifting- no current gain is involved. The same current that is sunk from the emitter, essentially flows into the collector.
spec
spec, I think I was confused, I'll be back to the drawing board and review our last weeks' posts;
Erik
Edit: I forgot to mention, I also have to power a MCU and LCD display from the regulator, those are not shown here because they are beyond the scope of this thread.
Hi spec, somehow I had missed this post. Where do IN- and IN+ come from? -comp and +comp form LM723? And is this with a LM393 (not very legible)?Below is my version of a power supply, current mode indicator (a touch of input offset voltage and hysteresis will be required for a practical implementation).
spec
**broken link removed**
Yes, that is correct.Where do IN- and IN+ come from? -comp and +comp form LM723?
Yes, an LM393 dual comparator. Sorry about the confusing sketch. I was not feeling too good yesterday- too much amber nectar the night before.And is this with a LM393 (not very legible)?
Great! I will implement this one. Simple, effective and more economical than a software solution (time needed for programming, testing, calibrating, wiring.. ).Hi earckens,
Yes, that is correct.
Yes, an LM393 dual comparator. Sorry about the confusing sketch. I was not feeling too good yesterday- too much amber nectar the night before.
The principle of the constant current mode indicator relies on the fact that if ever the IN+ (+comp) input of the LM723 is more negative than the IN- (-comp) input, the power supply must be in constant current mode.
spec
PS: I have made the sketch a bit clearer- I hope
DATASHEETS
https://www.ti.com/lit/ds/symlink/lm393-n.pdf
Great! I will implement this one. Simple, effective and more economical than a software solution (time needed for programming, testing, calibrating, wiring.. ).
You need some more of this amber stuff, really enhances your thinking
Thks,
Erik
I went to town today and got some more amber nectar.
spec
Nice logic and calculations earckens.Hysteresis on LM393: R1 from output to +IN, R2 from +IN to GND?
Say Vth (threshold, output voltage)=Vcc (18Vdc)*R2/(R1+R2), so if R1=18k and R2=82k (so that I can recuperate my previously discarded resistors from your calculations of my voltage- and current feedback circuits) then Vth=3.25V. Correct?
Just a 20 pak... for today...by the truckload I guess?
Hi earckens,
In terms of circuit function, your new circuit and your previous circuit are the same.
The LM723 only needs around 14mA so the Darlington transistor is just adding to complexity and reducing performance- sorry.
Your previous schematic was OK.
spec
The previous circuit (and best) is shown by the .png file attached to your post #135 as opposed to the later circuit of post #163.Which previous schematic do you refer to spec?
The two VBEs of a Darlington will seriously degrade the regulation of the 18V Zener diode.I could use your straight Zener regulator but I need a bit more current for a MCU and LCD; I toyed with your idea of keeping it simple but I decided to go for the Darlington regulator because it still is a straightforward circuit and I would need it anyway.
That is a good omen because it means that god is in a playful mood and just generating obvious faults, rather than more arcane problems.Started up at 46Vdc and boom, the voltage regulator bust in smoke. Then tried the transfo separately but the primary fuse (1A-f) kept blowing, put in a 5A-f but then all house lighting down . I suspected an earth fault, removed the transfo and tried again with just AC and no rectifier and all ok. Checked the rectifier (50A beast) and AC to "minus" diode bust. Did find a wiring error though ; too embarrassed to say where.
spec, could you send me a copy of that one, i am afraid not to have it anymore?The previous circuit (and best) is shown by the .png file attached to your post #135 as opposed to the later circuit of post #135.
..... spec, can you please explain?The two VBEs of a Darlington will seriously degrade the regulation of the 18V Zener diode.
Ok; but now I am out of ideas: how would you then supply the extra 250mA max (10V to 20V or so: I use a LM4040-5.0V for the last stage)?Not only that, but the extra current will be flowing through the current sense resistor and will mess up the current sense accuracy. Also, the processor and LCD, being digital, will introduce a whole load of hash into the precision voltage control and current control sensing.
So it would be much wiser to keep the core voltage regulation functions isolated and separate from the processor and LCD.
I never did have a copy of that schematic; it is a schematic that you drew in EAGLE and attached to your post 123. It is still there- just click on the shortcut.could you send me a copy of that one, i am afraid not to have it anymore?
I would use a separate mains power module, like this: https://www.befr.ebay.be/itm/5V-600...808143?hash=item4ae58d144f:g:qAYAAOSw-0xYSCqw. There are many different types on Belgium EBay.how would you then supply the extra 250mA max (10V to 20V or so: I use a LM4040-5.0V for the last stage)?
Hi spec, thanks for your answer; however: post 123 is by Les?Hi earckens,
I never did have a copy of that schematic; it is a schematic that you drew in EAGLE and attached to your post 123. It is still there- just click on the shortcut.
Sorry, post #135Hi spec, thanks for your answer; however: post 123 is by Les?
Afraid not - I have been a bit busy the last few days and today is missus birthday.And did you have some thought about my calculations for the hysteresis on the LM393 (your post 172)?
The Zener is a nice stable voltage- that is what it is designed for but if you connect a Darlington's base to the Zener and take the output from the Darlington emitter, the two emitter/base junctions of the two transistors in the Darlington will introduce a varying voltage which will degrade the voltage stability. I hope I have read tour circuit correctly!You also mention that the 2 VBE's of a Darlington will degrade the regulation of a zener: could you please explain that?
That's good. If you look on eBay, you will find some very small (and cheap) power supplies.I will consider putting a separate mains module; space is also a consideration though.
Sorry, post #135
spec
Quite correct earckens.I see, spec; but (apart from the fact that I use a straight zener series regulator) there I still have a 470R R12 between pin 11 (Vc) and emitter of BC546: should that not be eliminated?
And change R15 (base of pnp TIP42C to emitter BC546) from 2k2 to 1k?