marking panels

Neil Groves

New Member

• Dec 19, 2011

• #1

I have a black ABS plastic case and need to mark the front with calibration marks, what is the best method? transferes?, letraset?

Neil.

 

4pyros

Well-Known Member

Most Helpful Member

• Dec 19, 2011

• #2

Silver Sharpie;
https://www.google.com/#q=Silver+Sharpie&hl=en&safe=off&rlz=1R2ADFA_enUS441&prmd=imvns&source=univ&tbm=shop&tbo=u&sa=X&ei=CZ_vTouJJuPw0gGAhKTvCQ&sqi=2&ved=0CGIQrQQ&bav=on.2,or.r_gc.r_pw.,cf.osb&fp=741710c2b80424da&biw=1152&bih=715

 

Neil Groves

New Member

• Dec 19, 2011

• #3

Thanks 4pyros, i'll have to get my handwriting improved but thats what i'm gonna get.

Neil.

 

C

canadaelk

Active Member

• Dec 19, 2011

• #4

Letraset is nice but needs a lot of work and does not like use. I put many light coats of laquer over it to make it last.
I now use the Brother P-touch. You can create decals in an Office application and print it out onto a plastic laminate, max height is 1", but you can cut and past to any size. E

 

3v0

Coop Build Coordinator

Forum Supporter

• Dec 19, 2011

• #5

PulsarProFX has a system where you can user a laser printer (color or B/w) to produce decals.

 

Neil Groves

New Member

• Dec 19, 2011

• #6

Thanks guys, i'm gonna give the oil based sharpie a go.

Neil.

 

Inquisitive

Super Moderator

• Dec 19, 2011

• #7

Depending on how fancy you want it. He's another option go to your local sports trophy engraving shop and have them engrave a brass name plate or a phenolic resin engraved plate, your choice of colors or font types.

 

OlPhart

Member

• Dec 19, 2011

• #8

old fashioned way

For short run stuff, I'll do a layout in an illustration package (Illustrator/Freehand). Print it (in color, as req'd) and carefully cover it with clear packing tape. This both laminates and affixes it to the box.

If there are open areas, rubber cement the interior expanses so they can't float & snag/tear. It also helps hold it down for the tape/lamination process.

In earlier days (~1977) I used LetraSet... IT SUCKS. No fault of the company or the product, it's all the clown (me) trying to apply it without skew and square to a line. I wanted it done in the worst way... and succeeded.

For those wanting LetraSet to last, they (used to) make reverse typeset transfers. Build your panel, in reverse, on a thin transparent sheet. Then the sheet is your protector. This also works well for printed panel images, just be Certain to seal it off from contaminates, especially water. Just a couple of ways Ive tried... <<<)))

 

K

KeepItSimpleStupid

Well-Known Member

Most Helpful Member

• Dec 19, 2011

• #9

The old dry transfer lettering and coat with lacquer.

 

K

KMoffett

Well-Known Member

• Dec 20, 2011

• #10

I use the Brother P-Touch label maker. They have a white-letter on black-tape that looks pretty good on black ABS cases. Better than the old, thick DYMO white-on-black labels.

Ken

 

Attachments

• ABSBoxLabel.JPG

  315.4 KB · Views: 226

alec_t

Well-Known Member

Most Helpful Member

• Dec 20, 2011

• #11

You could just print the artwork on to normal paper, stick the paper on the box, and iron on a protective layer taken from a hot-laminating pouch.

 

Neil Groves

New Member

• Dec 20, 2011

• #12

I'm gonna go with the Brother P touch for the text and white enamal paint for the calibration markings.

thanks guys.

Neil.

 

Mr RB

Well-Known Member

• Dec 20, 2011

• #13

What about printing with your bubblejet on photo paper (which is not absorbent) then sticking the paper on the panel and spraying with a clear coat?

 

ModemHead

Member

• Dec 21, 2011

• #14

Mr RB said:

What about printing with your bubblejet on photo paper (which is not absorbent) then sticking the paper on the panel and spraying with a clear coat?

Click to expand...

I use a bubblejet printout on photo paper and cover it with frisket film, then attach it with spray adhesive (3M 77). It looks pretty decent regardless of what kind of junkbox engineering I have inside.

As a plus, during construction I temporarily attach a draft of the front panel graphic to use as a drilling/cutting template. Beats measuring and marking.

 

Attachments

• IMG_4311s.jpg

  125.6 KB · Views: 313

K

KMoffett

Well-Known Member

• Dec 21, 2011

• #15

Wow, very professional appearance. I've also done something similar with overhead transparency film and 3M 77. It works best with a light background, like aluminum.

Ken

 

Attachments

• TIG Pulser front.jpg

  71.9 KB · Views: 248

Neil Groves

New Member

• Dec 21, 2011

• #16

WOW....that equipment looks like store bought, ok ok ............scrub the label machine, i'm gonna give the bubblejet printer a bash, not the printer, i mean the idea, it must be way easier to make the lines and the text has gotta be a breeze.

thankyou so much.

Neil.

 

ModemHead

Member

• Dec 21, 2011

• #17

Neil Groves said:

... it must be way easier to make the lines and the text has gotta be a breeze.

Click to expand...

Yep, you can go crazy with colors and lines and such. Here's a smaller example, a 12V battery monitor in a little Radio Shack box.

 

Attachments

• IMG_4314s.jpg

  151.7 KB · Views: 274

Neil Groves

New Member

• Dec 21, 2011

• #18

OMG....i'm not even going to post pics of some of the **** that i've achieved in the past LOL

Neil.

 

4pyros

Well-Known Member

Most Helpful Member

• Dec 21, 2011

• #19

ModemHead said:

I use a bubblejet printout on photo paper and cover it with frisket film, then attach it with spray adhesive (3M 77). It looks pretty decent regardless of what kind of junkbox engineering I have inside.

As a plus, during construction I temporarily attach a draft of the front panel graphic to use as a drilling/cutting template. Beats measuring and marking.

Click to expand...

Wow thats nice!

 

jpanhalt

Well-Known Member

Most Helpful Member

• Dec 21, 2011

• #20

I have used Frisket for paint masking designs. How durable is it long-term?

John