Need help adding a manual temp-on pushbutton switch to an alexa controlled relay.

I have an Alexa-controlled relay that works fine with a linear actuator. The relay has three buttons on it, forward, reverse, and reset. I want to be able to duplicate the action of the "forward" button with a temporary-on push button switch, basically duplicating the effect of pushing the "forward" button. When I've tried to wire a simple DPDT switch in series, it never works, and shuts down the whole relay. How can I completely bypass the relay and just have power going to the actuator with a simple push-on/release-off switch?

I think this will do what you want.


You need to use one set of changeover contacts from your DPDT switch. (I assume this is a toggle switch biased in one direction)
The two sets of changeover contacts on the left are the relay contacts in your alexia switch. the contacts are shown in their not actuated state. The red line is where you break one of the wires to the actuator. (The blue forward wire.)

Les.

Thanks for the explanation, but I tried it and it doesn't work. My switch has 4 contacts on it, 2 NO and 2 NC. The NC part works, but when I connect one end of the NO part of the switch to the actuator and the other end to the positive lead, it doesn't work. I've verified pushing the button with a voltmeter, and when you push it, there is continuity between the 2 NO contacts. Am I just not understanding you? Thank you so much for helping!

Perhaps I have the polarity reversed?

In post #1 yoyu say that you have a DPDT (double pole double throw switch) That would have 6 terminals. now in post #3 you say that you have a switch with two sets of NO (Normaly open.) contacts antd two sets of NC (normally closed.) contacts so that would have 8 terminals. Identify the 2 terminals for one set of normally closed contacts and the 2 terminals for one of the NO contacts. Connect one terminal of the NO set to one terminal of the NC set. Connect that point to the common connection of the common on the change over (SPDT) switch in the circuit in post #3 connect the other terminal ofthe NC section to the point shown as closed (Top left.) and the other terminal of the NO section to the bottom left connection in the circuit in post #3.
Les.

Well, I obviously don't have that much knowledge. There are 4 contacts on this switch. 2 of them are NO and the other two are NC. That's it. But thank you for helping me.

One set of contacts has two connections. Think of two wires as a contact on a switch or relay. When the ends of the wires are not connected together That would be a contact that is open. When they are connected together that contact is closed. You seem to be confusing connections or terminals with contacts. The contacts are inside the switch which make or break the the connection between the two wires vonnected to the terminals on the switch.
Just do as I described in post #5. Think of the ends of three wires. Call one of them common. call the other two NC and NO. The static position. (I.E the button NOT pressed.) wire common connects to wire NC. When the button is pressed it moved the end of the common wire from the NC wire to the NO wire.
If you look at the circuit in post #2 you will see that when the button is not pressed the top actuator connection via the push button NC contact to the common contact of the upper relay in the remote switch. (Which is where it was connected was broken at the red line in the diagram. ) When the button is pressed the top actuator connection is connected to the positive supply. This causes the actuator to move as the other actuator connection is connected to the negative supply via the NC contact on the lower relay inthe remote switch.

Les.

This is my mistake. I have a switch with 4 Terminals. From my limited knowledge, if I were to break one of the actuator wires, and place a switch in-line, and have the other wire directly connected to power, it would mean that the actuator would always only function in one direction. I'm attaching three drawings here. The third one has what I've done so far, which is to put the switch in-line with one of the actuator wires. In this state, the relay still acts as it is supposed to do. My concept of the whole thing is to have a switch that completely bypasses the relay and allows someone to push a button and have the actuator go in one direction only, and then as soon as the button is released, the actuator is in it's original state. There are actually 2 functional buttons on the relay, a "forward" and "reverse". All I'm trying to do is replicate that exact button with a larger button. I have labelled all of the terminals in the third drawing. I think with my understanding of how this would work, I would need a switch that has 8 terminals, 2 input positive/negative NC for the connection to the relay, 2 more input positive/negative for input from a separate power source NC, and then another set outbound to the relay (the NO terminals). As I only need the manual mode of operation (pushing the button) to work in one direction, I would only need to use 6 of the 8 terminals.

On your third picture in post #8 add a wire btween connections T8 and T10 on the switch. Add a wire between T9 on the switch to T3 on the alexia remote receiver.
In that picture it seems to be in the state where you are pressing the button (On the the remote control keypad) which actuates the lower relay in the Alexia receive unit. This is making the actuator move in the reverse direction. In this state if you press the button on the switch the actuator will stop. If neither the forward or reverse button is pressed on the the remote control keypad is pressed then pressing the button on your switch will make the actuator move forward.

Les.

It didn't work, all it does when I push the button is make the actuator click.

Remove the wire between T9 on the switch and T3 on the Alexia.
Without the switch pressed does the actuator work in both directions from the Alexia remote ? (This is to verify that there is a path through the NC contacts on the switch when it is NOT pressed.)
With the switch pressed does the actuator NOT move in either direction when the buttons on the alexia remote are pressed ?
Looking at the pictures of the switch I don't think it's current rating will be high enough for the current required by the actuator. Have you checkrd that it's current rating is high enough.

Les.

Yes, I've done this using the NC contacts and it works fine.

As we have absolutely no information on the Alexia remote device I have made the following assumptions.
Using the connection numbers in the pictures in post #8. The top three connections T1,T2,T,3 are a set of changeover contacts T1 is the NC contact and is connected internally on the Alexia to the supply negative.
T2 is the common of this set of contacts. T3 is the NO contact and is connected internally on the Alexia to the supply positive. When the button for this channel ( Call this button A.) is NOT pressed T2 is connected to the supply negative. When Button A is pressed T2 is connected to the supply positive.
The bottom three connections T4,T5,T,6 are a set of changeover contacts T4 is the NC contact and is connected internally on the Alexia to the supply negative.
T5 is the common of this set of contacts. T6 is the NO contact and is connected internally on the Alexia to the supply positive. When the button for this channel ( Call this button B.) is NOT pressed T5 is connected to the supply negative. When Button B is pressed T5 is connected to the supply positive.
Can you test if these assumptions are correct ?
Try this test. Move the actuator to about it's middle position using the buttons on the Alexia. Disconnect the actuator wire from T8 on the switch. Connect that wire to T3 on the Alexian note if the actuator moves and if it does which direction it moves,
Les.

This is a diagram of the relay, showing all the inputs and outputs. In my case, I have all positive leads tied together, and all the negative leads tied together, as there is only one power source.

From your picture in post #13 My assumption about the internal links are wrong.
Can you confirms that my assumption about the two sets of changeover contacts is correct by DOING CONTINUITY TESTS. Can you provide a better focused picture so I can read model numbers to see if a manual for that model of Alexia is available online.
Les.

Here's a link to the relay: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CG17GL6G?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1