I replaced the relay but it is still not triggering the switch in the relay. I went with the 9V relay (thats what the store had and i remember you mentioning that it would still work with 9V previously). I picked up a 9 volt batter to power it as well. Any suggestions?
I think I am close to getting it to work. If I place my ear near the relay I can hear clicking when the magnetic trigger is tripped. However the relay doesnt seem to be closing the circuit. If I remove the relay from the board and wire it directly to the battery it works just fine. I have posted pictures of what I have done. Its probably a mess being this is my first time doing something like this. Any help is appreciated!
Pin #1 on the 555 circuit should be the bottom right one with the way I was holding the board while taking the picture.
I noticed I had accidentally put a 100 ohm resister in the place of the 100k ohm resister. I switched the incorrect piece out and it is starting to work.
The pulse seems to be getting sent to the relay. The relay doesn't seem to be closing the circuit correctly (maybe closes 25% of the time). Some times it opens and closes every 1/4 of a second like it should and sometimes the circuit stays closed wether the treadmill is moving or not. Any clues?
I am using your typical 9 volt battery as the power source. I dont know how to determine if I am using the correct voltage (ect.) to trigger the coil properly.
In your photos, I only see one polarized capacitor. C1 should also be a polarized cap of 10 microfarads. Your caps (except C4) look like silver micas, which are only available values much lower than the ones in the schematic. I think C4 is the only one that might be the correct value.
In your photos, I only see one polarized capacitor. C1 should also be a polarized cap of 10 microfarads. Your caps (except C4) look like silver micas, which are only available values much lower than the ones in the schematic. I think C4 is the only one that might be the correct value.
Yeah I had a feeling that C1 was supposed to be polarized as well. They didnt have one in stock at the time and someone previously posted that it should work with the nonpolarized. They may have misunderstood my question. Here are the specs on C2 and C3:
0.1 uF Polyester Film Capacitor
50WVDC max
Capacitance Tolerance +-10%
I was pretty sure those were the right capacitors. Thank you very much for your help.
Yeah I had a feeling that C1 was supposed to be polarized as well. They didnt have one in stock at the time and someone previously posted that it should work with the nonpolarized. They may have misunderstood my question. Here are the specs on C2 and C3:
0.1 uF Polyester Film Capacitor
50WVDC max
Capacitance Tolerance +-10%
I was pretty sure those were the right capacitors. Thank you very much for your help.
Thank you very much Ron for that schematic. It would have taken me forever to figure all that out.
I wonder if I could bother you for one more favor. I just measured the rotation on the treadmill. At the slowest speed it completes 4 rotations per second. Would you be able to tell me what the numbers on the components would have to be to keep the signal going as long as the user completes a rotation within .25 seconds?
What kind of treadmill do you have? I calculate that 1 mile/hr would be equivalent to 4.4 inches per rotation. That's a cylinder 0.7 inches in diameter. Kinda painful to walk on.
They cylendar is a bit small but attaches to a larger circle thing attached at the end of the cylendar there. The magnetic switch is attached to the perimiter of the circle. Thay may change the math a bit.
When I calculated rotations I hooked the magnetic switch straight to the keyboard and timed myself for 30 seconds. At the end there were something like 127 ticks recorded / 30 seconds = 4.2 per second so I rounded down.
OK, I get it. I thought you were counting revolutions of the belt. You're counting revolutions of the roller. Now the math makes sense.
Is your schematic identical to the one I posted?
I think it is. I dont have alot of experience reading schematics but from what I can tell it is put together the same way as it is written on the schematic except C1 is .22uF instead of 10uF.
I am not sure if this part is right but all of the triangles are soldered together along on common line and all the +12V are soldered together along one common line.
Not sure what SPDT is. My negative wire came off the circuit board I think it may have been lose and causing part of the problem. I resoldered it in place. The switch comes on but seems to stay closed and doesnt reopen. The only way to get it to stop is to pull the battery.
The keyboard works just fine. I have been using an led light to test the relay circuit as well. The light signal is consistent with the keyboard so I dont think its the keyboard.
This may not make a difference, but you should probably connect your input coax shield to ground. I see that you have it wired the opposite way (Murphy's Law).
Is that something like all roads leading from Rome instead of to Rome?
I made the switch still having the same problem. As soon as the first rotation is made the relay switches on but never switches off. (Hoping that means we are almost there!) Are we sure that C1 doesnt need to be polarized?
Did some research SPDT = Single Pole Double Throw. The relay is correctly wired to the normally open position.
Nonpolarized caps can always be used in place of polarized caps.
I think you have something wired wrong.
I have run simulations on the circuit. The output pulse is 242ms long.
I must have something wrong but am unable to determine what it is. Is there maybe anyone out there that can build a working one of these for me? I am willing to pay a resonable price for it.