op amp to mosfet output destroyed

Sorry, my V+ and V- are misleading. Should have written non_inverting < inverting, when the battery becomes full
 
the whole 'home' system with 20AH battery. This here with the 'lo_v disconnect' original version.
 

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I didn't think I needed any as it essentially a dc thing with slow ~.5Hz 'pompings ' by the maintainer. Only ac fluctuation when it disrupts / re-establishs power and i didn't see any changes with decoupling of the amp supply

All electronic circuits require them, the entire premise of electronics is that the supply rails are at the same AC potential, and that's what the decoupling capacitors do - leaving them out will affect operation, and could cause potentially damage as well. It's not something you can just leave out.
 
I hope you understand that this configuration as a switch loses 3V from the supply and heats up the FET by switching V+ rather than switching from the drain to V- of the load.
 
I hope you understand that this configuration as a switch loses 3V from the supply and heats up the FET by switching V+ rather than switching from the drain to V- of the load.
3V? How are you calculating that? I see an 800mA load and 20mOhms of R(on), so only 16mV. Now you show yours.
 
did as your recommend
The whole ups with the lov_disconnect improved by electro-tech-online




 
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The electrolytic you added seems to have a bulging top, although
pic not well focused. Thats a sign of cap failure.



Regards, Dana.
 
The electrolytic you added seems to have a bulging top, although
pic not well focused. Thats a sign of cap failure.

It's only a sign of a 'possible' failing capacitor, many electrolytics are manufactured with a slightly bulging top, not all are flat.
 
many electrolytics are manufactured with a slightly bulging top

Curious, how many and what vendors are accepting / passing these as
good for sale ? Who do you know thats doing this ? I wonder what
tolerance / deviation from mechanical plane, manufacturers have.
 
Slightly domed lids are a sign of gas pressure events. This starts to evaporate C then oxidation causes a rapid rise in ESR which terminates usefulness.
 
FET 101 laws apply. Both Drain and Op Amp R2R to 12V. Click the switch then reply. https://tinyurl.com/2bnjqn6w
https://tinyurl.com/2bnjqn6w
FET 101 laws? I'm not sure you need to go that far to fix your error.
It's possible you need to look at an earlier, more basic "Law". Like, "Reading Schematics 101 Law", or, "Garbage in, Garbage out" Law. Or, my favorite, "The person who yells loudest or has the flashiest graphics is rarely right" law.

Take another Peek at the OP's circuit. You may Pee yourself once you notice your error and aPologize for your Poor reading skills and/or incorrect assumPtions.
 
High side Nch FET drivers need a boost voltage to act as low dropout switches,.
That's why the OP didn't use a Nch Mosfet

Edit: I'm really amazed that this hint wasn't assumed to be a hint.
Take another Peek at the OP's circuit. You may Pee yourself once you notice your error and aPologize for your Poor reading skills and/or incorrect assumPtions.
 
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The electrolytic you added seems to have a bulging top, although
pic not well focused. Thats a sign of cap failure.

picture deleted

Regards, Dana.

Thanks, Below an in site picture with flash. Indeed a bit more convex than his friends. All are of brand samxon, marked 100uF. This one showed 60uf on a dvm. The other 3 I still have all measure ~90uF. Should I replace it?
 
Thanks, Below an in site picture with flash. Indeed a bit more convex than his friends. All are of brand samxon, marked 100uF. This one showed 60uf on a dvm. The other 3 I still have all measure ~90uF. Should I replace it?

If it reads low on a capacitance meter, then it's seriously duff, 60uF is well past it.

The actual failure mode is usually high ESR (this is by FAR the most common failure in electronics over the last 20+ years), and the cap is usually completely gone while it still reads within it's correct capacitance value. For this reason a capacitance meter is of little use, and an ESR meter is essential for repairs.

Presumably you used a capacitor taken out of something else, you should NEVER use electrolytics taken out of old equipment.
 
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I would replace.... Looks like a crack in aluminum back triangle point area.
I replaced it.
I must note your extraordinary sense of observation for having seen the concavity on that off focus picture. Also, thanks for the tip on identifying electrolytic defective caps!
 
Presumably you used a capacitor taken out of something else, you should NEVER use electrolytics taken out of old equipment.
Not cannibalized cap. These was bought from futurlec.com, my preferred online passive- components store. They are of the brand samxon
 
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