If the Inv input was taken below its supply rail,. with no current limit, would have fried
the input structure thru the forward biased Zener acting as a simple diode when v+ goes
more negative than a diode drop.....Fix would be a series R to Inv input, say 1K ohm from
junction 12K and zener anode.
I didn't think I needed any as it essentially a dc thing with slow ~.5Hz 'pompings ' by the maintainer. Only ac fluctuation when it disrupts / re-establishs power and i didn't see any changes with decoupling of the amp supply
All electronic circuits require them, the entire premise of electronics is that the supply rails are at the same AC potential, and that's what the decoupling capacitors do - leaving them out will affect operation, and could cause potentially damage as well. It's not something you can just leave out.
I hope you understand that this configuration as a switch loses 3V from the supply and heats up the FET by switching V+ rather than switching from the drain to V- of the load.
I hope you understand that this configuration as a switch loses 3V from the supply and heats up the FET by switching V+ rather than switching from the drain to V- of the load.
All electronic circuits require them, the entire premise of electronics is that the supply rails are at the same AC potential, and that's what the decoupling capacitors do - leaving them out will affect operation, and could cause potentially damage as well. It's not something you can just leave out.
Curious, how many and what vendors are accepting / passing these as
good for sale ? Who do you know thats doing this ? I wonder what
tolerance / deviation from mechanical plane, manufacturers have.
Slightly domed lids are a sign of gas pressure events. This starts to evaporate C then oxidation causes a rapid rise in ESR which terminates usefulness.
https://tinyurl.com/2bnjqn6w
FET 101 laws? I'm not sure you need to go that far to fix your error.
It's possible you need to look at an earlier, more basic "Law". Like, "Reading Schematics 101 Law", or, "Garbage in, Garbage out" Law. Or, my favorite, "The person who yells loudest or has the flashiest graphics is rarely right" law.
Take another Peek at the OP's circuit. You may Pee yourself once you notice your error and aPologize for your Poor reading skills and/or incorrect assumPtions.
Take another Peek at the OP's circuit. You may Pee yourself once you notice your error and aPologize for your Poor reading skills and/or incorrect assumPtions.
Thanks, Below an in site picture with flash. Indeed a bit more convex than his friends. All are of brand samxon, marked 100uF. This one showed 60uf on a dvm. The other 3 I still have all measure ~90uF. Should I replace it?
Thanks, Below an in site picture with flash. Indeed a bit more convex than his friends. All are of brand samxon, marked 100uF. This one showed 60uf on a dvm. The other 3 I still have all measure ~90uF. Should I replace it?
If it reads low on a capacitance meter, then it's seriously duff, 60uF is well past it.
The actual failure mode is usually high ESR (this is by FAR the most common failure in electronics over the last 20+ years), and the cap is usually completely gone while it still reads within it's correct capacitance value. For this reason a capacitance meter is of little use, and an ESR meter is essential for repairs.
Presumably you used a capacitor taken out of something else, you should NEVER use electrolytics taken out of old equipment.
I replaced it.
I must note your extraordinary sense of observation for having seen the concavity on that off focus picture. Also, thanks for the tip on identifying electrolytic defective caps!