I do well enough with CadSoftUSA's Eagle PCB editor. They've got a free "light" version, the functional restriction is the size of the board.
It's got annoying quirks, mostly having to do with copying & editing existing components. Sometimes a simple operation becomes very difficult there. Otherwise, it's quite stable and crash-free, the autorouter is quite effective, good setup of design rules, etc.
You might need a Gerber file viewer to print out artwork you could DIY etch with.