PIC Board problem

Hello everyone!

I am relatively new to the PIC world (having previously dealt only with the dsPIC30F/33F family) and I recently acquired a development board from Futurlec.com in order to do some PIC development [https://futurlec.com/PIC18F4550_Board.shtml]. Because the PIC18F4550 has a USB interface, this board is supposed to have the capability of programming the PIC directly, using only the USB connection between my PC and the board and as such this board is supposed to be 'ready to run' out of the box.

To my surprise, there was no programming software for this board on the CD and nothing else except a flimsy 'manual' (attached) and a few demo hex files. I managed to get the board recognized under Windows XP and have the Microchip USB drivers installed (see picture), however I failed so far in loading a hex file to the PIC (using WinPic800 and PICPgm). I am assuming the USB bootloader must have been loaded onto the PIC otherwise Windows wouldn't have recognized the board.

Upon reading the manual I was informed that the way to program the board was through a dedicated programmer using the ICD2 connector on the board. So much for ready to run out of the box...

I contacted the company, but it's been two days and no reply and I am not even sure if/when I'll get one (they don't have a phone number and when I tried to send an email to their dedicated technical@futurlec.com the email came back as the mailbox was full!).

So as you can imagine I am looking at the prospect of either solving this somehow on my own or with your help or having to spend another $50 to get a programmer. Does anyone have some idea as to what I could try to get this going?

Thank you for taking the time to read this!

Hi,

Bit surprsied no one has replied to you yet ..

Looking at the info you have posted, the board is not a programmer.

Its intention is to download and run via the usb link into the bootloaded 4550.
Although I have used the 4550 chip, I have not tried any bootloading yet, but sure other more experience members on this site will help you sort that specific problem out as the hardware used looks perfectly standard.

The board will allow you to run your downloaded program, but for actual programming of the 4550 or any other Pic, or hardware debugging then you do need to connect it via the ICD socket to a suitable device like a Pickit2 ; which is highly recommneded on this site.
( you will also need a suitable adaptor plug for that ICD socket)




hth

WizzBal you're in Toronto. Why didn't you just head down to Creatron Inc on College st and buy one of my Junebug kits
Using Bootloaders are a mess, stay away from them and JDM type programmers are not much better.

If it's loaded with the Microchip standard bootloader then you need to download the setup file **broken link removed** from Microchip. There is a special linker script for the bootloader. Once you have it setup it is pretty straight forward.

Mike.

Thank you all for replying!

Richard, I just managed to get a broken Microchip PicKit2 on eBay for $13. The owner claims that the USB port is damaged and if he is right it should be an easy fix. I'll update when I get the package.

Bill, I seem to have fallen victim to the marketing department @ Futurlec. Who wouldn't want an easy to use, ready to run solution for $50 with shipping included? Of course, after I got the package and I saw that the breadboard was just thrown in the package instead of being fastened on the board, noticed the lack of any programming tools on the CD or even basic start instructions, I began to ask myself the same question .

Mike, I had previously downloaded that boot loader from Microchip, however when I run it, I am greeted with a "Device not detected. Verify device is in boot loader mode" message. This is while the board is on the "Prog" mode selectable from the switch. As far as I can tell from the schematic, the 18F4550 is connected directly to the USB port, the Vcc light is on (so I hope that means the PIC is powered) and things 'should' be working but they're not at this point.


Florian

Think with the Pickit2 and a G/LCD, your new board will make a good development system.

The ebay PK2 sounds like it may be the smd mini usb socket that has been 'ripped off ' the pcb - can happen easily if you don't secure the lead to a baseboard etc.

The other earlier common problem, some of them would loose their program - but neither should be too problematical to repair.

Microchips published PK2 circuits are good, ( I've built a clone from them) and the Microchip PK2 forum has full details of all of these little problems.

good luck

Richard

WizzBall I'd be willing to trade you an assembled Junebug for your ET-PIC board.

Bill I thought you recommended that people should steer *cough* clear of bootloaders .

Since we both live in Toronto I would be more than happy to lend you the board until I get my hands on the broken PicKit2 and fix it. That should be about two weeks for you to evaluate the board if you'd like.


Florian

It was to add to a collection. But thank you anyway.

I finally received the damaged Pickit2 today and Richard you were right, the Usb connector has been ripped off the board resulting in two of the three traces being damaged.

I was expecting an easier fix but nevertheless I will attempt to fix this. The problem is that I have a very, very basic soldering iron that is not suited for SMD work or thin traces (tip is too big and not interchangeable).

Any suggestions are very welcome. Thank you!

WizzBall said:

Any suggestions are very welcome. Thank you!

Click to expand...

Weller WES51. You may find a better price somewhere else. That was near top of the Google search. If you plan to keep doing electronics for a while, a quality soldering iron is a terrific investment.

I own the older version of this. The WES50. It's an awesome soldering iron! Best I've ever owned. Yes, I know there are lots of other, probably better, irons available, but I love my WES50.

A list of good features:
1. FAST heat up (around 30 seconds).
2. The tips last forever.
3. It shuts itself off if I forget.
4. Excellent temp control.
5. Nice thin, light, flexible (and un-meltable) cord and iron.
6. ESD safe.
7. The stock tip is nice and small. Works great for SMD stuff too.

Hi,

As Futz mentioned, a good soldering iron is worth its weight in gold, although any decent 15 - 18w iron with a fine tip should be ok.

Think you have two ways of repairing the board, reattaching the mini socket or connecting some wires , coming out of the pk2 to a standard usb socket.

For these wires or track repairs, suggest you use some 30 awg wire, such as the wire wrap type, - it solders easily.

Attached is a layout of the visible socket track on my pk2, which might help your repair.

Richard

Thank you again for your advice! Richard, your drawing helped when soldering things together, and Futz, I intend to do electronics for a while, but before I get heavily into it to justify $100+ equipment, I decided to start easy. I will come back to this topic later and look at a Weller soldering station in the future, should I decide I need one.

I went today to Circuit City and got a cheapo Nexxtech soldering iron kit. It was $20, but I managed to repair the Pickit2 together with my roommate.

Initially I wanted to repair the traces and just position the original USB connector back in its place. He suggested a less elegant approach, using wires that we connected from the pins of the connector directly to portions of the traces that were still left intact. We went with his idea as it was the fastest approach and I got the Pickit2 working.

The only thing I have yet to figure out is how to connect the Pickit2 to the ICD2 connector on the board. I am not sure if any of you had to do this previously, after looking at the specifications, I tend to believe that I should connect pins 4 and 5 from the Pickit2 to pins 2 and 3 of the ICD2 connector and to that extent it seems I might need to modify an RJ-45 connector and connect it to the appropriate pins on the Pickit2.

Just curious if someone has done this before (or knows how it is done) and can confirm my thoughts above. Many thanks!


- Florian

The pinout should be 1:1

Thank you Bill! Now, I got this telephone cable however (as expected) it only has two wires. Any ideas where I could get a 5 wire communications cable? (it has to fit into an RJ11 - telephone connector)

You'll need a crimp tool too. I don't know where to get 6" of flat 6 conductor cable aside from some scrap cat-5 might work.

WizzBall said:

Thank you Bill! Now, I got this telephone cable however (as expected) it only has two wires. Any ideas where I could get a 5 wire communications cable? (it has to fit into an RJ11 - telephone connector)

Click to expand...

You need an RJ12 plug and 6 conductor cable like this:
CRJ12-03MM: 3' M/M RJ12 Cable (6P6C)
Just the wire:
CZRJ12: 6-Conductor Flat - Silver Satin
Just the plug:
ZRJ12P: RJ12 (6P6C) Plug for Flat Cable (e.g. telephone)

That is exactly what I am looking for Kchriste! I hope they open on Sundays .

Problem solved! I just succeeded in building/loading the wildly popular 'Hello World' to my PIC18F4550 using MPLAB IDE and MPLAB C18 and the repaired Pickit2. Many thanks again to everyone that helped me with getting this done, I hope you guys are just as knowledgeable when it comes to programming!

A few thoughts on my experiences so far...

1. DO NOT (under any circumstance) buy anything from www.Futurlec.com if you expect you might need any level of support (above very basic) with your purchase. If you were born programming PICs and the like you are going to be Ok, otherwise you might set yourselves up for disappointment as most of their kits come with minimal to no documentation. They don't have a phone apparently (in the 21st century) and their support email inbox is full. You have been warned.

2. Buying something on eBay that is advertised as an easy fix, doesn't necessarily mean that is actually the case especially if we're talking SMD components. Be prepared .

3. Building the interface cable between a Pickit2 and a board with an ICD2 connector is fairly easy and costs about $2 and 20-30 minutes of your time if you're a beginner like me and don't have a crimping tool of any kind. And getting it done sure beats paying Microchip for their interfacing kit!

4. If you're looking for any electronic components in the Toronto/GTA area, the Creatron Parts store on 255 College Street is a great place to find almost anything. It's actually at the top of my list for now.


That's about it, I hope some of you will find these bits useful sometime. I am going back to programming my PIC, and in the meantime I'll keep lurking on this forum. Good luck everyone with your projects!