You can not test for flame rectification without AC power.Why do you need AC for flame conductivity testing?
John
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You can not test for flame rectification without AC power.Why do you need AC for flame conductivity testing?
John
You can not test for flame rectification without AC power.
Alac; I am thinking about it.How about home-brew heating elements made from coiled nichrome wire (toaster/electric fire element), running off 24VAC?
Thanks John; I will look into that.True, but you can test for flame conduction. Flames conduct in both directions, but better in one direction, which accounts for the DC offset/rectification that is often used. However, that use is often in a situation when AC is readily available. If AC is not available, then DC will conduct when there is a flame and not conduct when there isn't. Here is a patent using DC: https://www.google.com/patents/US2684115
John
Seems it has been done before but needs lots of power.Alac; I am thinking about it.
I would call it a Hot Wire Igniter.
There is not much out there on electrical conduction of flames but I did find a flame detector kit;Thanks John; I will look into that.
Yes, it will need lots of power. The gas blowing on the hot wire will cool it! I expect whatever you use will need a fair bit of powerSeems it has been done before but needs lots of power.
I would hazard a guess that the 'transformer' at bottom left plus a few adjacent components form an inverter putting out a high voltage (>1kV?) which is applied to the probes. Conduction between the probes when ions in a flame are present would then be detected by the rest of the circuit to energise the relay at bottom right.Any idea how this works?
I am not entirely sure high voltage is needed, I saw one schematic that ran off 12 volts but could not find much info on it.I would hazard a guess that the 'transformer' at bottom left plus a few adjacent components form an inverter putting out a high voltage (>1kV?) which is applied to the probes. Conduction between the probes when ions in a flame are present would then be detected by the rest of the circuit to energise the relay at bottom right.
I finally found this and yes not cheep about $50!A Google of "uv flame detector" will bring up some of what I mentioned. However, the suckers aren't cheap
The IR sensors I have seen are about $100 for a sealed unit and around $20 for a hobby board that could melt.Put me in the IR group. Thinking about it a little more the UV I worked with were designed for a nice blue flame. Based on response I am also thinking a pilot light system, much like used on what are now older furnaces.
@ John, we had some of those radiant heaters you linked to around our loading docks. They work great! Serious warm heat during winters like this.
Ron
Cheaper here;4pyros: That's $45 for the sensor and $60 for the board.