Pulsar Stuff

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The manager gave me the scope for $3. Cool! i guess i do a good job workin there lol

heh cant beat that price right?
 
AtomSoft said:
vne147: Which one from office depot? What does the laminator have to fit? Like what specs should i look for?

Heated roller? Thickness? anything like that?
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Atom,

The one that I have is the GBC H210 laminator. I'm not sure if Office Depot still carries it or not because I didn't see it on the site but I did find it here:

HeatSeal H210 Personal Laminator, 15-3/4w x 6-7/8d x 4-5/8h, Silver - Sold as 1 Each - 1702540 - Buy.com

I can't really say what specs you should look for which is why I emailed the guy from PULSAR before I bought mine. He said this one would work and it has done pretty good for me so far. A few disclaimers and tips: This machinie works really well with 1/32" thick boards. It kind of struggles a little bit with the 1/16" boards depending on how wide they are and I have never tried any 1/64" boards yet. I use the highest heat setting. There is an LED that turns green when the machine reaches temperature but I have found it is best to wait about anouther 10 minutes or so after that before I'll run the board through. I will also do about 3-4 passes rotating the board in between each pass.
 
i noticed the laminator from pulsar is only $70 which isnt alot at all when compared to local prices. And then i have to worry if it doesnt work ahhh i rather buy theres which is tested and guaranteed to work right.

Ill try this guys paper tho. Ill buy the laminator soon like by friday.
 
I have the H210 too. The extra warmup past when it turns geen (hot indicator) is important.

The thicker the PCB is the more passes it takes to get it hot enough for the toner to fuse. If you only use one type of PCB you will not see this.

3v0
 
heh i dont watch baseball really lol but yankees are my team

3v0 i plan to pass every PCB around 7 times just to make sure. Time isnt a issue much since its for personal use
 
AtomSoft said:
heh i dont watch baseball really lol but yankees are my team

3v0 i plan to pass every PCB around 7 times just to make sure. Time isnt a issue much since its for personal use
Click to expand...

There is such a thing as too much heat. If you overdo it the traces will spread and reduce the space between them, close up the holes.

Go a bit overboard at first and back off if you have to. One of the nice things about toner transfer is that you can wipe the toner off and try it again.

As I understand it you can heat the toner to where it is sticky but not melted. In theory that is the ideal temperature point, but do not ask me to back it up with data.

3v0
 
3v0 said:
There is such a thing as too much heat ... As I understand it you can heat the toner to where it is sticky but not melted. In theory that is the ideal temperature point, but do not ask me to back it up with data.

3v0
Click to expand...

I agree. I have ruined a few transfers before using the "more is better" approach. You'll have to play around a bit to see what works best.
 
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ok thanks ill be sure to get 1 board and cut it into about 4 strips and test out 4-6-7-9 passes to see which is best.
 
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When first making boards with any unfamiliar method, write down the entire process so that you can refer back to it at a later date.

Start with the toner density and transfer process, not forgetting the time spent letting the heating apparatus reach temperature & the actual temperature attained, along with the time required to successfully transfer the print. Note all these steps.

Once you have a successful transfer, start noting how the etching process steps are affected - temperature versus duration, agitation etc.
 
etching is simple i got that done already in my mind. Ive etched tons of times with no issue.
 
hey guys just tried out ROLFs paper and it works like a charm! I used a normal iron and got good results and paper came right off like magic

Here look. You will notice under the AtomSoftTech i smudged it a bit heh (i dont iron alot )

I think if i had a laminator this would have been perfect
 

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thanks and the coolest part is..... it works!!!
 

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I'm trying to redo that connector. I'm thinking of cutting a hole in the PCB for that plastic connector to pass through and having pads right up to the edge, and the either soldering small wires to bridge the connectors and pads, or maybe bending the tiny connector wires over to the pads.

It's hard to explain, but I'd like to have something more solid.
 
i know exactly what you mean. Its like those game console mods. they have a flex ribbon that wraps around a SOLDER cups where you should solder this way its a perfect solder and right on targer
 
so have you placed an order yet?

I am sold on PULSAR as well.
It works and has good customer support.
 
indeed that was ROLFs paper. He sent me a sample. Works great!!! I even got tips from him. Hes a nice guy.

I will be making another board for testing mostly. Will include a through hole led and smd resistor just to test both again.

Also i will make another LCD board with his tips and see how well i can do now

Be ready tomorrow for the new board.
 
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