Question regarding the circuit

Frankly, rubberlele, how experienced are you in electronics?
Something makes me think that you are not very.
It may even happen that you make some fault that is so basic that we never think of.

For example, what do you mean by "what voltage and current will come out" (referring to your starting post on this topic).
The battery is a voltage generator, so you should not measure directly what current will come out of it. Measuring current is quivalent to short circuit. I can tell you: WAY TOO MUCH current will come out, if you just connect an amp meter directly across the output. If you are lucky it will just blow the fuse in your multimeter. The amp meter should always be connected in series with the load, and it must never be connected across a voltage generator (like batteries, power supplies, etc.).
The same thing: have you ever tried to measure what current will come out of the wall sockets in your home? Do not try it for Gods sake!!!

So when you measure the voltage on the output of a battery (or the wall socket), no problem.
But the current depends on the load resistance I=U/R. If the output is short circuited either by wire or by an amp meter or any low resistance it can produce so high current which can even blow up the battery in some time because of overheating.

I think some learning and some smaller projects could come first before making the bigger shots like this one.

im a newbie...hence the questions...nvm step by step...i'll try to remove the far right diode first

rubberlele, I did not mean to hurt your feelings. But in fact electronics is not as simple as it seems, and all subjects including electronics need some basic education to start with.
In lack of that basics you just run into a lot of frustration, especially with the more complicated projects.

Take it granted that everyone makes some (or a plenty of) faults while soldering the circuit, so one must have the knowledge and some experience to easier find the problems.

There may be short circuit between the Vbat and GND, it must be checked first.
The multimeters have that function that beeps when there's short circuit between probes. Switch the multimeter to this setting, and put its probes between the Vbat and GND. If it beeps, there is short circuit.
Then check what's the reason.
Short circuit can be due to a soldering fault (the solder tin connects pads which it should not) or a piece of unmeant wire that touches points it should not, or some fried component (could be that diode on the right side), or something else (misconnected component pis, misrouted wires).

I think some problems cannot be addressed and solved through "remote control" from forums. We just make guesses but do not see the physical circuit layout.

i know gerenis, no hard feelings, but the circuit was given to me and i just buy the components and connect it. Thats why when i didnt work i came to you guys, i totally agree with you that some problems cannot be addressed and solved through remote control from forums, but hey, its still an effort, better than do nothing

Good luck, anyway!

rubberlele said:

but the circuit was given to me and i just buy the components and connect it.

Click to expand...

I still think you should get yourself an electronics book or something so that you can learn the basics.

You were lucky that the circuit wasn't the same as National Lampoons Christmas Lights circuit. (Made, and stapled on the roof by Chevy Chase) :lol:

if it was that, you would be sending the city of (your city) down under, just from hogging the current.

So don't take every circuit for granted, especially if there are no manuals that came with it.

u're spot on mate! i think i'll just be better off without this circuit!

That's right. A sore point in this circuit that there is no decent protection against the risk of fire.
Some batteries are capable of currents in excess of 1000 Amps if short circuited. (Sport car batteries are usually rated at 1000 CCA - Cold Cranking Amps - so they can source 1000 Amps at -18 degree Celsius for a considerable time, and even more Amps at higher temperatures... The autos have their fuses though.)
When there is no fusing in the circuit, incredible amount of heat could be generated in seconds (many thousands of watts can go into the short circuited parts of the circuit and similarly thousand of watts flow within the battery itself).
If you've already touched a conventional 100W light bulb in operation, then you could have a faint idea what heat can come off if 10,000W goes on for several seconds.

This circuit without any fuses relies only on that some components or wires break open (burn out) before something catches on fire. When there is some flammable material besides the PCB or the connecting wires, that may happen too late. (On National Geographic I just saw the story of the Swissair Flight 111. This airplane crashed because an undersized supply cable heated up. The cable was routed near a flammable insulation material which caught on fire, and finally the fire spread over and wiped out the whole electronic system of the airplane. They could not land before it was too late. 229 people died.)

To prevent the risk of fire, there should be fuses with appropriate amp rating in the power rails on both sides of the battery (load side and solar cell side as well). Placed close to the battery if possible.
(And of course cables carrying very high current should have appropriately high cross section.)

Wow, thats something gerenis!