Z-Wave is the best alternative at the moment, as that uses RF in a mesh network, rather than powerline signalling.
Ah!. Leakage. So, even though it is off, it is not really off wasting energy. That's why my using a relay following the module most likely fixes the problem. It physically disconnects the line (no more leakage). And yes, I have experienced the issue where a string of LED lights would still stay dimly lit. I thought that by disconnecting the neutral as well was what was doing the trick but now I am not sure if that is the issue at all.The lamp modules, both plug-in and the light switch type, are TRIAC based. These leak (electrically) and cause some LED bulbs to glow in the off state.
Energy saving is a big deal for me.
I got a dedicated fanless mini PC in the Homeseer black friday sale
Dump the Arduino - it's a development system, and is useless for low power applications, as there's too much stuff on-board wasting current. By using a PIC, suitable hardware, suitable software, and sleep mode you can drastically reduce power consumption - to years for an 18650.How is the battery life of their wireless remote sensors? So far, on the Ardunio ones I built I can only get about 6-8 weeks using one 18650 rechargeable.
If you like the Arduino system, then try the Arduino Pro Mini
Disconnecting the neutral certainly will break the circuit and stop the oscillation, but at what cost?. If there is no evidence of the relay chattering (indicating a significant trickle current through the coil in the off state), then it probably is the case that the relay's minimum operating current is much greater than the leakage current. But the leakage current still is there, it's just in a place where you cannot see any consequences.
1 mA at 120 Vac is 12 mW. That's not much. My guess is that your relay coil is drawing more than that when it is on. For more, post data (part number / vendor site / datasheet) for the relay.
OMRON LY2 AC110/120 GENERAL PURPOSE RELAY 110/120VAC 10A DPDT PLUG IN 8 PIN
If this is in fact what is causing your oscillation, putting a light bulb in parallel with the supply should bleed of this leakage current and quiet the supply. It could be something as small as a 4 W or 7 W nite-light bulb. Note that the bulb is drawing that power level only when it is on.
My setup such as it is.If you like the Arduino system, then try the Arduino Pro Mini, which is essentially an Arduino compatible Atmel328 on a tiny board - and while it's not as low power as a PIC, it can still be used down to MUCH lower powers than the full Arduino boards.
That's a good question. I think I can argue it both ways.How about a neon bulb?
Disconnecting the LED is something you MUST do - as it uses massively more than the processor in sleep. However, you should also use transistors, or FET's to switch all sensors etc. completely off when not in use.I am using an Arduino pro mini set to sleep all the time and wake only if a change in sensor state is detected. I did not disconnect the onboard LED. Going to try that next.
I do like the pics and have pic stuff but they are kind of expensive to work with unless you are a pro which I am definitely not. I need things mostly already designed and I can make minor changes.
Well you've got the LED nice and bright, plus the sensor (whatever it is) appears to be permanently powered. So battery life is severely compromised. Have you tried measuring the current it's taking from the battery?.
Disconnecting the LED is something you MUST do - as it uses massively more than the processor in sleep. However, you should also use transistors, or FET's to switch all sensors etc. completely off when not in use.
Exactly what are you trying to do?, to get decent battery life you need to power up sensors occasionally, take a reading, and then shut it back down. If it's something that needs continuous monitoring, then you can't do that, and you'll struggle getting good battery life.I am using a magnetic sensor that is normally open. When the magnetic field is applied, it is closed grounding the Arduino pin.
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