Robot Chassis (refresh to update)

theinfamousbob · Dec 4, 2006

I should look into Halls instead of optical interrupters (I was planning on using them for a different 'bot)

This is what my tank bot has to traverse:
**broken link removed**

The hill is pretty steep, and a little less than two feet high if I remember correctly.

Wheels just aren't cutting it.

William At MyBlueRoom · Dec 5, 2006

theinfamousbob said:
I should look into Halls instead of optical interrupters (I was planning on using them for a different 'bot)

This is what my tank bot has to traverse:
**broken link removed**

The hill is pretty steep, and a little less than two feet high if I remember correctly.

Wheels just aren't cutting it.

What about two twin gearboxes for 4 wheel drive. A swivel in the middle would keep the wheels on the ground.

theinfamousbob · Dec 5, 2006

William At MyBlueRoom said:
What about two twin gearboxes for 4 wheel drive. A swivel in the middle would keep the wheels on the ground.

Interesting idea...I'll have to give it a try if I can convince my instructor to order another (he really has a distaste for them... )

(Ok, I'm done being off topic now...teehee)

The frame looks great...if I had money (read: poor teenager who's looking at tens of thousands of money going out for college/university next year...) I'd grab one...it's always nice to have a 'bot around to do quick-n-dirty prototype work.

William At MyBlueRoom · Dec 6, 2006

Here's the latest chassis. Simple, held together with PEM spacers. You can click on the image on my site to see it in 3D
**broken link removed**

Sceadwian · Dec 6, 2006

I'd use a mechanical holder for the breadboard and a connector from the breadboard via a standard IDC cable to the robot itself, that way you can disconnect the breadboard from the robot and move it to a test bench. Moving the entire robot is likley to become iritating, if not space constraining. Espcically considering when you're testing the control I/O you don't want an accidental chance a robot is going to take off across your desk and yank your programming connections out.

William At MyBlueRoom · Dec 6, 2006

What sort of mechanical holder for the breadboard? Can you give me an example on google images?

the motors and battery connector will be molex (small) and there will be a power switch on the top deck. I use standoffs and a small board when testing. It's a really small robot less than 6" long. (Or you can just pull off the wheels

giaosucan · Dec 7, 2006

ok

I have just finished a project which bulding a line follower robot .It is very successful .You can check follow link
**broken link removed**
We made a flim about it and uploaded on youtube.com.
Sorry about speed of internet is so slow ,you should use high speed Internet

Sceadwian · Dec 7, 2006

Any kind of mechanical holder. Perhaps a wingnut style screw in the center of the board to mount it, so that it can be easily removed by hand.

bloody-orc · Dec 8, 2006

from where did you get those 2 front "wheels"? those look neat.

PS your homepage link aint working

William At MyBlueRoom · Dec 9, 2006

bloody-orc said:
from where did you get those 2 front "wheels"? those look neat.

PS your homepage link aint working

Fixed the homepage link, and those are Tamiya 58mm Narrow Tires
https://www.hobbylinc.com/htm/tam/tam70145.htm

William At MyBlueRoom · Dec 9, 2006

Sceadwian said:
Any kind of mechanical holder. Perhaps a wingnut style screw in the center of the board to mount it, so that it can be easily removed by hand.

The PCB will be removeable, those solderless breadboards just have tape on the bottom.

bloody-orc · Dec 10, 2006

sry then i meant the 2 back "wheels" those ball's under the bot.

William At MyBlueRoom · Dec 10, 2006

The robots "balls" are Tamiya 70144 ball castors. If I can use just AAx4 I'll stick with the smaller bots single caster.

https://www.pololu.com/products/tamiya/0066/

bloody-orc · Dec 11, 2006

oh cool nice invention... if only i could buy some locally or if only i would need a 1cm ball... i need 15cm rubber off road tires!

bingbinICE · Dec 12, 2006

free C compiler ... I like sdcc

William At MyBlueRoom · Dec 21, 2006

Here's Mongoose V9. A 0.092" thick PCB will be used as the chassis. Seen from the rear in this image.
**broken link removed**

bloody-orc · Dec 23, 2006

i wouldn't suggest using a PCB as a chassy. the vibrations WILL kill the electronics on it. use some plywood or aluminum instead. easier to cut, stronger and looks nicer .

William At MyBlueRoom · Dec 23, 2006

bloody-orc said:
i wouldn't suggest using a PCB as a chassy. the vibrations WILL kill the electronics on it. use some plywood or aluminum instead. easier to cut, stronger and looks nicer .

Back to the drawing board
PS would you rather have one or two ball casters at the back?

bloody-orc · Dec 23, 2006

well depends on the stability of the bot... if the weight is center then 1 is good, if not then 2 is better. as i have never used those little buggers i have no experience with them... you know this only by building a prototype. first with one and if its wobbly and unstable, screw in 2.

William At MyBlueRoom · Dec 24, 2006

Heres a chassis and a PCB that fits a Hammond 1591C (if you don't want the wheels)

The folded sides should make it pretty sturdy.
**broken link removed**

Robot Chassis (refresh to update)

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